Very nice work. Fab and welding look great.
I just have to ask why didn't you tie in the unsupported outside tube to the inner tube?

 

outside is just i fender/headlight support, but i suppose it couldnt hurt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice work. Fab and welding look great.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously?

 

Not everything is going to be as nice as ur stuff tony, I think its good work also.

Maybe when hes done he cant put some stock panels back on it.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not everything is going to be as nice as ur stuff tony, I think its good work also.

Maybe when hes done he cant put some stock panels back on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's just plain unsfafe dude. You have a structural member tied into the firewall? How strong do you think the firewall is?

 

That thing is gonna flex like no tomorrow. It hardly has any structure. Along the sides behind the fenders is a large member than run almost to the rad support from by the front of the door which helps with torsional rigidity and supports the entire middle of the vehicle. You've replaced that with one bar that is entirely unsupported.

I have to disagree on this one. I think you were better off with the unibody. To each his own though I suppose...it's your car.

 

ohh boy

 

before you get to carried away, im not relieng on the firewall for support, on the inside the firewall is plated opposite the front plates are going to be tied into a 8-point cage you can see the main hoop started in the last picture


Modified by H22Luda720 at 12:27 PM 1/5/2007

 

When you hit the brakes, the spindle is going to try and twist, putting a lot of twisting force on the upper control arm. That twist will be applied along that upper tube in a direction from front of the car to the back of the car. Even when it's tied into a cage, it's pretty much going to be in a straight line. Run a tube from the upper tube near the shock, to the part towards the outside of the car, where you cut off the old frame rail and put the plate. That will help a lot.

 

keep the ideas comin, its not done yet, thanks!

 

Yeah, well maybe it's not my choice of structure, but the welding looks good from what I can tell.
This is more what I would do as a minimum.
I would put more gussets too, but I'm a gusset *****...

 

wouldnt hurt to tie it in to the roll cage

 

Just out of curiosity, what was the point in doing this? You maintained a stock suspension setup, and it doesn't appear to be drag related. Are you setting this up as a future track car to fit a wide tire?

Of course, this obviously needs tied to the cage, but that's hardly the answer to the problems here. You took alot of structure out that you haven't replaced. The upper bar that you stated "only supports the headlight portion of the rad support" is actually a very structural portion of the front unibody if you examine the piece you hacked off. The entire front of the vehicle relies solely on the "frame rails" now. I assure you if you start loading corners that entire front end is gonna twist. You've just given the suspension a large mechanical advantage in order to twist the front end under load by basically narrowing the support structure.

 

not bad.
but deffinatly not what a tube frond end is normally looking.

it will hold for a period of time but I wouldn't race this car without some serious modification to this frond end.
you need to go TROUGH the firewall with a pipe and then connect it to the inner car cage wich will be welded to frame to at least 8 point... 6 will not even give you enough strenght to handle body flex.
just a point
other than that ! it's a great starting point, but dont leave it this way, you will be disapointed with the result.

dont give up though, you are farther that a whole bunch of people...

KRanked

 

I hope this is just a show car or display car. Do not go to a race track.

 

i never fabb'ed a cage before but i would think the best way to "tube chassis" the front half would be run a tube about centered between the two bars you have there now(replacing the two bars). then you could just send the bar right thru the firewall(welding it to the fwall) to the cage itself. you could even keep the area where the stock uca's and coilovers mount and just weld it to the new tube you added. obviously you could modify it to run any coilovers you want and reinforce it a bit. **** you could even keep the outer bar and just tie that into the main bar with a dimpled plate i would think.

 

my big question is WHY did you do this other than to weaken (or in all actuality eliminate) the structural integrity of the entire front of the car?

 

nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJ VTECpowered &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know you are not serious

 

omg, the front end is going to fall off.

I had enough headaches with a minor unibody modification. Almost had to throw my CRX in the garbage because of it. Live and learn I guess.

Do yourself a favour and lift one of the front corners of the car. Hopefully the amount that the chassis flexes will scare you enough to put an end to this debacle.

 

i think the front "tube cage" should DIRECTLY connect to the cage AND chassis INSIDE the car...

i don't think the section where you connected to the firewall would be enough to support the front end under driving condition...

you should also brace both side together as well like a strut bar... perhaps a removable bolt on X type struct bar across the entire front section.

this way, if you are to remove the engine, you can just unbolt the X-bar and have access to it.

edit: how much weight did you removed at the front? this could make the CRX to be a 50:50 or 60:40 car hehe...

 

LOL

 

That does not look safe at all!