When going to bigger piping, car bogging now...
When I went from the one piece welded on exhaust to a 2.25" exhaust with a RSX-S exhaust, I noticed that if I turn the car off for let's say 10 minutes, come back and try to turn it back on, it's like it's not getting enough gas and cuts out. It'll get to around 1,000 rpm's, and fall back to 0 and shut off. I then have to give it "gas" pump the gas pedal and try to start it and then it'll start. I've replaced the fuel filter and still the same thing. I was wondering what else it could be? Also sometime when riding around 2-3,000 rpms, the car will just feel like it's in a limp mode and bogg there for anywhere from 3~7 seconds, and then it'll open up. I was wondering what that could be also other than fuel filter. I've done a tune up not that long ago, with plugs, plug wires, cap n rotor....
Also noticed that after doing this, there's a rattle in my exhaust, sounds like it's where the header is bolted up to the catback and it's always there. Do I need a new cat, or do I need to supertighten the bolts there or what? Could have a video up here tomorrow... Lemme know guys... Thanks for any and all help.... no BS here man, trying to get my car running find before I start a build on it.
Also noticed that after doing this, there's a rattle in my exhaust, sounds like it's where the header is bolted up to the catback and it's always there. Do I need a new cat, or do I need to supertighten the bolts there or what? Could have a video up here tomorrow... Lemme know guys... Thanks for any and all help.... no BS here man, trying to get my car running find before I start a build on it.
i have the same problem in my car, someone said it might be a vacuum problem. but im not sure if that could be the answer to the problem. It feels like there is a short burst of air, not gas going into the engine which makes the pedal feel like its not doing anything. Im curious what the problem could be also. I dont like having to rev the engine up while im sitting at a stop light.
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
The only way to test your cat converter is to take it off and look through it in the light. It will look like looking through a screen door. If there's a considerable amount of clogged spots, then you probably need a new cat converter. When I took mine off, it was only about 1/3 clogged after over 260,000 miles, so don't underestimate how many problems a few clogged holes can make.
Did you reset the ECU after you installed the exhaust? Your ECU needs to be reset to take full advantage of your new exhaust, and to help out problems like yours. Do everything exactly how I've typed it out.
First, shut off all the accessories in your car. A/C, radio, lights, anything that can shut off. Disconnect your battery and wait 10-15 mins or so. Reconnect the battery, start it up FROM A COLD START, and whatever you do, don't touch ANYTHING but the clutch. READ: DON'T TOUCH THE GAS!! Just start it up, and GTFO. Let it idle for 15 mins so your ECU can relearn your engine, and your new exhaust.
Here's the important part. Turn the car completely off to save the ECUs new settings that it just learned. Restart, drive it around, and find an empty stretch of road. Go from no throttle to wide open throttle back and forth. Do it fast, do it slow, mix it up, whatever. Floor it, then let off completely. Shut the car off again.
After you do all of this, it will be well worth it. Trust me.
Did you reset the ECU after you installed the exhaust? Your ECU needs to be reset to take full advantage of your new exhaust, and to help out problems like yours. Do everything exactly how I've typed it out.
First, shut off all the accessories in your car. A/C, radio, lights, anything that can shut off. Disconnect your battery and wait 10-15 mins or so. Reconnect the battery, start it up FROM A COLD START, and whatever you do, don't touch ANYTHING but the clutch. READ: DON'T TOUCH THE GAS!! Just start it up, and GTFO. Let it idle for 15 mins so your ECU can relearn your engine, and your new exhaust.
Here's the important part. Turn the car completely off to save the ECUs new settings that it just learned. Restart, drive it around, and find an empty stretch of road. Go from no throttle to wide open throttle back and forth. Do it fast, do it slow, mix it up, whatever. Floor it, then let off completely. Shut the car off again.
After you do all of this, it will be well worth it. Trust me.
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Well reset the ECU, still bogging, checked the cat, seems like that's the problem with that. But that wouldn't cause the car to bog down though would it? O2 sensor or fuel pump maybe? When "romping" on it or flooring it, I smell a lot of gas in the inside...
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: That's the wrong tone... I'm Skunk2 certified.
A clogged cat can definitely cause a car to bog down. How? Well, when the exhaust gases get backed up before the cat, the cylinders can't clear out the exhaust as well as they could if it wasn't backed up. So, all the exhaust doesn't leave the cylinder before the exhaust valve(s) close, and old exhaust gases mix with new fuel and air coming in (bad), making an incomplete burn of the fuel. All of your gas doesn't get burned up, temps get higher, and your car bogs. Now, over time, all of this can wear out your o2 sensor, which just makes the bogging and hesitation worse.
All of this happened to me, and everything I've written about comes from experience. '91 teg + 250k miles + stock cat = All of this ish. So do something about your cat, and get a new o2 sensor, and that should fix your engine problems.
All of this happened to me, and everything I've written about comes from experience. '91 teg + 250k miles + stock cat = All of this ish. So do something about your cat, and get a new o2 sensor, and that should fix your engine problems.
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