what is this ek shell worth? honest answers please!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Murfreesboro, Tenn., USA
Just gathering a general idea of wht my civics shell is worth. I was thinking along the lines of $600, but would like some opinions.
Chassis has just over 104K.
5spd.
Mild wire tuck
Newer Transmission
Newer clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing
Suspension:
Stock shocks and springs
Poly shifter bushings and engine mount inserts
15x6.5 wheels (weighing 8lbs each) with good tread all the way around
would need an alignment as suspension was recently returned to stock.
Exterior:
100% OEM bone stock original paint
Dent in rear passenger quarter panel
Small nicks in rear bumper
One small rust spot under passenger side molding
No front bumper, fenders, or headlights.
Hood is silver and has been grinded for unknown reasons.
Interior:
Small tear in drivers side seat
DX Gauge cluster reading 113K miles
Pocket in factory radio location
Pocket right above the cup holders
Very clean Door panels
Factory speakers all the way around.
Glove box is a lighter gray as original owner replaced the factory one for unknown reasons
Bad things about the car:
No bumper, headlights, fenders, or passenger side skirt
The car has no steering rack in the vehicle. I pulled it out of this vehicle and put it in my newer 97 hatchback. The only piece missing from that is a “D” shaped bearing, spring, and gasket.
The front lower core support right next to the radio was cut out for unknown reasons by the previous owner.
The distributor was removed but I do have a spare in unkown working condition. It worked good until I removed it over a year ago.
There are 2 or 3 frozen exhaust manifold bolts that are rounded and would need cut out.
Bad Map sensor.
No battery tray.
No radiator, fan, or hoses
No rear wiper, as it was removed by the previous owner.
Engine can run, but on 3 cylinders. Cylinder 3 fouls the spark plug and gets covered in oil.
Clean Tennessee title.








Chassis has just over 104K.
5spd.
Mild wire tuck
Newer Transmission
Newer clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing
Suspension:
Stock shocks and springs
Poly shifter bushings and engine mount inserts
15x6.5 wheels (weighing 8lbs each) with good tread all the way around
would need an alignment as suspension was recently returned to stock.
Exterior:
100% OEM bone stock original paint
Dent in rear passenger quarter panel
Small nicks in rear bumper
One small rust spot under passenger side molding
No front bumper, fenders, or headlights.
Hood is silver and has been grinded for unknown reasons.
Interior:
Small tear in drivers side seat
DX Gauge cluster reading 113K miles
Pocket in factory radio location
Pocket right above the cup holders
Very clean Door panels
Factory speakers all the way around.
Glove box is a lighter gray as original owner replaced the factory one for unknown reasons
Bad things about the car:
No bumper, headlights, fenders, or passenger side skirt
The car has no steering rack in the vehicle. I pulled it out of this vehicle and put it in my newer 97 hatchback. The only piece missing from that is a “D” shaped bearing, spring, and gasket.
The front lower core support right next to the radio was cut out for unknown reasons by the previous owner.
The distributor was removed but I do have a spare in unkown working condition. It worked good until I removed it over a year ago.
There are 2 or 3 frozen exhaust manifold bolts that are rounded and would need cut out.
Bad Map sensor.
No battery tray.
No radiator, fan, or hoses
No rear wiper, as it was removed by the previous owner.
Engine can run, but on 3 cylinders. Cylinder 3 fouls the spark plug and gets covered in oil.
Clean Tennessee title.








i wouldnt touch it with a 10 foot pole ... too much rust and need a rad support .. for what you would want i can find a EM1 shell for about the same ...
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Murfreesboro, Tenn., USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt touch it with a 10 foot pole ... too much rust and need a rad support .. for what you would want i can find a EM1 shell for about the same ... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the honesty
Thanks for the honesty
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt touch it with a 10 foot pole ... too much rust and need a rad support .. for what you would want i can find a EM1 shell for about the same ... </TD></TR></TABLE>
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I'm thinking something in the $500 range too. It's probably close to totalled in the condition it's in.
I have an EK coupe that's in better shape than that, though it's been in an accident in the past,it's been repaired, looks good from the outside and has a nice interior. I was thinking it's worth no more than $1000 as a shell.
I have an EK coupe that's in better shape than that, though it's been in an accident in the past,it's been repaired, looks good from the outside and has a nice interior. I was thinking it's worth no more than $1000 as a shell.
I dunno. I dont think its worth anything. maybe if you wanted to race it and didnt care about the body panal damage then I could see something there but thats about it.
Why not part it out and dump the left overs, just the overall hassle?
Not that I'm an expert on shell pricing, but with the cut core support I'd speculate it's probably best as a racer now. Even if it was a good deal, you still end up with a car that wasn't quite "perfect" and had nebulous problems (core support cut for unknown reasons primarily).
Not that I'm an expert on shell pricing, but with the cut core support I'd speculate it's probably best as a racer now. Even if it was a good deal, you still end up with a car that wasn't quite "perfect" and had nebulous problems (core support cut for unknown reasons primarily).
I've never been successful parting car's out. You have to have incredible patience and realize the parts might not even be worth selling. From the hassle factor perspective, the time you waste selling barely covers the price you get for the parts.
The thing with selling a shell like that is how hard it will be to find someone remotely interested in the first place.
Its only worth what THAT person is willing to pay for it. So you setting a price and being firm with it probably wont get you anywhere.
For instance, to someone that needs something like that it may be worth 700 dollars to them. To me personally, I wouldnt pay a dime more than 200 bucks. But that doesnt mean someone else won't give you exactly what you're asking for it.
I'd put it up as best offer and see what happens. But judging from the rust and all that is missing, I'd say if you got 500 cash for that I'd consider you VERY lucky. The little bit of rust and the rad support missing would be enough right there for me to pass it up and keep looking.
Its only worth what THAT person is willing to pay for it. So you setting a price and being firm with it probably wont get you anywhere.
For instance, to someone that needs something like that it may be worth 700 dollars to them. To me personally, I wouldnt pay a dime more than 200 bucks. But that doesnt mean someone else won't give you exactly what you're asking for it.
I'd put it up as best offer and see what happens. But judging from the rust and all that is missing, I'd say if you got 500 cash for that I'd consider you VERY lucky. The little bit of rust and the rad support missing would be enough right there for me to pass it up and keep looking.
I think anywhere between 500-1000 is reasonable. What you have there is an ek hatch, where its cheap enough to scrap and replace the interior and motor economically. throw whatever front end the individual desires and then paint it whatever colour they want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BudgetBalla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think anywhere between 500-1000 is reasonable. What you have there is an ek hatch, where its cheap enough to scrap and replace the interior and motor economically. throw whatever front end the individual desires and then paint it whatever colour they want. </TD></TR></TABLE>
But after all that money and work, don't you think it would have been a thousand times easier/cheaper to just buy the hatch you wanted in the first place? Or a clean, full interior'd, painted hatch...and just swap the motor?
Buuuuut, to each his own. The hatch I'm driving right now I actually bought a little crashed up in the front. But I got it cheap enough to replace the bumper/headlights/hood and still only paid about 2200 dollars total, with 65k on the odometer.
But after all that money and work, don't you think it would have been a thousand times easier/cheaper to just buy the hatch you wanted in the first place? Or a clean, full interior'd, painted hatch...and just swap the motor?
Buuuuut, to each his own. The hatch I'm driving right now I actually bought a little crashed up in the front. But I got it cheap enough to replace the bumper/headlights/hood and still only paid about 2200 dollars total, with 65k on the odometer.
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