i was trying to seperate my balljoint from LCA so i can put a new dust boot on and i had no problem seperating the passenger side but for some reason it was really difficult to do the drivers side.

when using the jaw puller thing i was turning it and the thing that turns upward to press the ball joint out lost grip and poked into the thread and ruined part of it, so the end of the thread looked like it was curled up sort of.

then i was a dumbass and pounded at the bottom of the thread to try to get the balljoint out so that probably made it slightly worse and later i realised all this would'nt of been as bad if i just kept the castle nut on the end cause at least it would of protected the threads.

so now i can't get the castle nut on and i am stumped on what to do cause i am desperately trying to avoid having to put a whole new balljoint, especially since i was only trying to put a new dustboot to protect my good balljoint.

so what are some things i can do to get the castle nut on? its only messed up on like the very bottom by a 1/4" so if theres a way i can get it past that then it would get onto the good section of thread and then it would be good.

is there a way i can use a "TAP & DYE SET" to fix the bottom portion of the threads???? does anyone know? i read how you can use a dye to cut new thread onto a bolt but i am not sure if the bolt has to be in a vice outside of the car or what??

also, another thing to mention is the bolt turns round and round, but i think it won't do that if i have the pressure of the LCA against it using a jack or something.

any tips that i can do ? i just finished putting a new subframe and LCA in and all i had to do was hook the steering rack to the U-joint inside and then this happens and it is totally in the way and disappointing, so any help would be appreciated, thanks

 

i have successfully filed off the end of the threads that were no good and then rethreaded the whole balljoint. its 10x1.25M THD.

take off the boot and use a vice grip to keep the balljoint from spinning. if there is any marring on the "ball" surface, file it down or it will kill the balljoint quick. you cant get it as smooth as before, but its better than totally scrapping the balljoint.

 

thanks for replying Tyson, i know you know what your doing

if you don't mind, can you explain a little more just so i understand what you meant?

when you say you "rethreaded" it did you mean using a dye ? (i have never used one, just heard of it), and what does 10x1.25M THD mean ?

and how would i get "marring" on the "ball" surface? i was'nt planning on touching up that far?

i just want to understand everything correctly, but if you tell me what i need as far as tools and such then i will go out and probably buy it cause i just want to get this fixed so i can get on with getting the car on the road, thanks a lot

 

to make your life wayyyyyy easier next time use a pickle fork.....it slides right under the ball joint....hammer it in then either pry it off with your hands or get a bar the fits over the handle so you have better leverage then just push down and the bar then *POP* its off

 

yes you rethread using a die. looks like this.


a die is on the top, a tap is on the bottom. dies make external threads (bolts), taps make internal threads (holes).

youll need the tools for it too. at this point, i cant really recommend you even pursuing this since youll need to buy a set to start with.

it might be better to just call it a loss and buy a new balljoint and learn from your mistake.

 

thanks for the info tyson, i may have to replace balljoint and learn from my mistake, but first i might just try using a thread file and just see if i can get the castle nut to fit, and if not then oh well........