This is what I did first if you guys remember:


You told me to turn up the heat so I did:






I think it is getting a little better, but I don't know how good it is going to get on flux.
This is some stuff I just did. I am not getting any leaks so I guess that's good. And I can see the weld on the inside of the pipe.




I put this here for support:


and where my BOV is going to go.


Tell me what you think, I wanna get better at this.

Also is there any way to get the dime effect when welding with Flux? I tried going down and it melts like lava, When I go up I find myself moving to slow and making holes.

 

Flux core is flux core and it all looks like crap. That being said, if this is not flux core MIG, you definitely need some more practice. What process/machine are you using???

 

This is flux..............

 

This is gasless fluxcore, right?
The money spent on shielding gas is worth it's weight in gold.
You will not be happy with the results with this wire.
Regular gmaw with gas would work way better.

 

I have a FirePower 120 MIG system that runs off 115V. I'm currently designing my own turbo system for a 3.0L Duratec V6 and I'm welding 16 Guage 304SS tubing. Here are some pictures of my welding. I'm using a Tri-Mix gas and the Short-Circuit method for welding this:





Here is one on eBay for fairly cheap (used). I paid $425 new.

http://cgi.ebay.com/FirePower-...wItem


Modified by FastCougar at 5:33 PM 1/3/2007

 

lookin like some good welds

 

Mine has a mig and flux, but I just don't see paying a $100.00 for a bottle right now.

 

Tested it for leaks? Did you weld it continously or spots over each other?
I can spot few places where theres possible leakage.

 

No leaks ... it's been seam welded entirely on the inside as well and then ground flush. The "holes" that you can see are from starting and stopping. I spot welded all 4 corners and then did a seam weld from spot to spot. I got full penetration based on what I saw on the inside of the flange, but just to be safe, did the same thing on the inside as well. Then finished by grinding down the inside weld beads to increase flow past the welds.

 

ok

 

Fair enough. Just play with the settings some more.
Keep the nozzle really close to the work to minimize spatter.
Save up for a bottle, you'll never look back.

 

You need to turn up the heat a bit, and don't whip the puddle.
Glad to hear you don't have leaks.
How did you test?
Did you test according to intended psi?
Just a thought.
The tri-mix should give you a fairly smooth bead with enough juice.
Don't push the puddle so much, should be 90 degrees or so.
Good luck, keep welding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FastCougar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No leaks ... it's been seam welded entirely on the inside as well and then ground flush. The "holes" that you can see are from starting and stopping. I spot welded all 4 corners and then did a seam weld from spot to spot. I got full penetration based on what I saw on the inside of the flange, but just to be safe, did the same thing on the inside as well. Then finished by grinding down the inside weld beads to increase flow past the welds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So is it basically like spot welding, if so why do you do this ?

To Cburke, welds look ok but still a little rough. Then again its flux core. When welding with mig, focus on basically trying to melt both pieces together, hard to explain it but once you get the hang of it, it will come easy. Some of your welds look like there sitting on top, and not melting the area around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is gasless fluxcore, right?
The money spent on shielding gas is worth it's weight in gold.
You will not be happy with the results with this wire.
Regular gmaw with gas would work way better.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Regular GMAW uses gas. There pretty much isn't any other way to run GMAW. Hence the name:

Gas Metal Arc Welding


Modified by k24em2 at 12:34 PM 1/9/2007

 

Thanks guys for the help. I really need to get a bottle but I think I need to get a better welder first. I spend more time fixing the jamming wire then I do welding.

Here's some other stuff I am doing.........

 

im just curious..why did you close off the hood striker hole? planning on using hood pins only or what?

 

you cant put a brace on the charge pipe like that, it needs to move with the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meanEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant put a brace on the charge pipe like that, it needs to move with the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the couplers will give it enough play...unless his motor mounts are made of play-dough.

ma70 supra charge pipes are bolted to the chassis from the factory...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 408wdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im just curious..why did you close off the hood striker hole? planning on using hood pins only or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I am only using hood locks. I thought it would look pretty clean.

It's not a big brace, has a little flex in it.

 

You can make flux welds look like stacked pennies if you don't run a puddle. Just tack, move, tack, move, tack, etc... lol Penetration sucks, but they look nice!

But in all reality, I've laid flux core beads that look excellent. It just takes practice, the right settings, clean material, and a steady hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can make flux welds look like stacked pennies if you don't run a puddle. Just tack, move, tack, move, tack, etc... lol Penetration sucks, but they look</TD></TR></TABLE>

Penetration in a weld, who cares