A couple weeks ago I left my lights on a needed a boost. Whenthe tow truck operator came, he jumped me with one of those portable chargers. As I went to start it up, it started fine but he told me that my starter was in need of replacing. I filed his comments in the back of my head. Seeing as I've heard here that potential starter problems can be linked to bad main relays, I got me a new one and everything is cool. This past Saturday after stopping to get some dog food, my car wouldn't start. I could hear the main relay click twice, but the engine wasn't turning over. A quick love tap on the starter with my trusty hammer and she starts right up. Now today, I go to start my car to go out for lunch and she won't turn over. I don't even hear the two clicks from the main relay. Needless to say, I didnt get to eat and searching here on H-T has given me a headache. Is there anything I should look at? I'm not too mechanically inclined and I don't have much in the way of tools with me. I'm hoping she'll start up when I head downstairs to go home for the night. Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

hmm..your sure you dont hear the clicks? double check those solder joints. It just sounds to me like your starter is fried...get a new one and while your at it replace your batt terminals

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by progress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">........... A quick love tap on the starter with my trusty hammer and she starts right up.....</TD></TR></TABLE>


Theres your answer bro , you need a new starter.

 

Ok, went to try to start the car after work. Nothing. No clicks from main relay, engine not turning over. Tried to push start it but it wouldn't catch. Then tried to jump the starter with no results. Now, I went to check if I was getting any codes and my ECU is not even blinking whatsoever. Now what can that be?

 

dead battery?

 

Well, the lights and radio all worked plus we checked the battery and it's putting out the required volts.

After checking everything from all the grounds to all the fuses and checking to see if there was spark (which there was none), my dad, his ex-honda tech friend and I have narrowed it down to the distributor since there is no clicks coming from the main relay nor is there any fuel getting to the engine. Is it true that if a part in the dizzy fails, it will cause the fuel pump to not pump fuel? Anyways, after having the CRX towed (AAA Plus rocks) to my parents' place, we thought we'd be able to swap distributors (or even ignitor coils) from my dad's 92 civic sedan to my 90 crx. No go, not compatible. So now I believe we are on the hunt for a dizzy or an ignitor coil for a D15B2. Does this sound about right? Let me know. Thanks!

 

Just a thought...a couple weeks ago, I tried to replace my antenna and in the process of removing the old one, could I have messed up some of the wiring under the dash? Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by progress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, went to try to start the car after work. Nothing. No clicks from main relay, engine not turning over. Tried to push start it but it wouldn't catch. Then tried to jump the starter with no results. Now, I went to check if I was getting any codes and my ECU is not even blinking whatsoever. Now what can that be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd try the Ignition wiring harness,they do go bad on the rex's(honda's period,even newer ones).It's cheap(from the dealer) and it's easy to replace.I had the same problems at first,replaced the main relay etc,it gave me about a couple more starts before the harness totally went out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by progress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After checking everything from all the grounds to all the fuses and checking to see if there was spark (which there was none)</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can you check for spark if the engine won't crank?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my dad, his ex-honda tech friend and I have narrowed it down to the distributor since there is no clicks coming from the main relay nor is there any fuel getting to the engine. Is it true that if a part in the dizzy fails, it will cause the fuel pump to not pump fuel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that is absolutely not true. This is definitely not a distributor problem. The distributor has nothing to do with the fuel system.

Check all grounds.

Are you getting 12v at the starter when you turn the key to "III" (start position)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How can you check for spark if the engine won't crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't say the engine didn't crank. I did say that it wouldn't turn over.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, that is absolutely not true. This is definitely not a distributor problem. The distributor has nothing to do with the fuel system.

Check all grounds.

Are you getting 12v at the starter when you turn the key to "III" (start position)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll have my dad check all grounds and check for the 12 volts at the starter tomorrow as the car is in his driveway in NJ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by progress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't say the engine didn't crank. I did say that it wouldn't turn over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really wish people wouldn't use the term "turn over," because it is used with a different meaning almost each time I see it. "Crank" and "start" are less confusing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll have my dad check all grounds and check for the 12 volts at the starter tomorrow as the car is in his driveway in NJ.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's cranking, you're obviously getting power at the starter.

Are you getting spark? Just no fuel?

If your fuel pump is not priming, I'd look closer at the main relay. You may want to take it back to exchange it for another one. Check for 12v at the fuel pump before you do that though.

 

My dad was looking at the car this morning after putting in a "new" distributor and it still wasn't starting. After looking at the fuse box under the hood, he discovered that the wires coming from there were fired and also fried that part of the fuse box. Does anyone know if a fuse box from a 4th gen civic will work? I'm heading to the salvage yard first thing Sunday morning for a replacement fuse box. Thanks!

 

After replacing the underdash fuse box in my car, "new" distributor and innards, we still can't get power to the main relay to get the car started. Jumping the black/yellow wire on the right side of the fuse box with the positive terminal from the battery will get a wooshing sound near the fuel injectors as well as a click or two at the main relay. Still, no start though although my dad said he did get the car started the other day but once he removed the wire the engine died. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere in the black/yellow wire? I dunno though. We're checking the plugs at the main relay. It's been a week with the car sitting at my parents place.

 

i'd trouble shoot the ignition harness as well. There are test procedures you can use to see if its bad. All you need is a digital multimeter, and some time. I have the procedure, and the procedure to trouble shoot the ECU that you asked for. I can email them to you, if you like. Just need email address. PM me. The ECU's red light should blink once when key is turned to the on(run) position of the ignition switch. After that should go out unless you have trouble codes stored in memory, then it will blink the codes. also, sense your fuse box wires were melted check fuses under dashboard, some could be blown.
colnago

 

After reading your post a couple of times, does the engine turn over when the key is turned and not start, or does the engine not turn over ar all. If car doesn't turn over at all, problem is at starter or main relay which you replaced. check to see if you are getting 12volts at little black wire at starter when key is turned to start postion ( to start car), wire is plugged into connector on solenoid. If no 12v, problem lies at ignition switch, or a blown fuse, if automatic neutral saftey switch,manual-clutch interlock switch,starter relay, etc. which could be causing the 12v not to get to starter.
colnago

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colnago &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After reading your post a couple of times, does the engine turn over when the key is turned and not start, or does the engine not turn over ar all. If car doesn't turn over at all, problem is at starter or main relay which you replaced. check to see if you are getting 12volts at little black wire at starter when key is turned to start postion ( to start car), wire is plugged into connector on solenoid. If no 12v, problem lies at ignition switch, or a blown fuse, if automatic neutral saftey switch,manual-clutch interlock switch,starter relay, etc. which could be causing the 12v not to get to starter.
colnago</TD></TR></TABLE>

The engine does crank but doesn't start so I'm pretty sure it isn't the starter. After checking the plug at the main relay we kinda gave up since it was dark and getting cold and went in the house. After looking at the wiring diagrams as we warmed up it looks like it may be the ignition switch. We're going to check that tomorrow! Thanks for the help and I'll update this post once we know more.

 

Just to correct something. The car will turn over if main relay is bad. Just won't start. You will lose spark, and fuel. The relay is energized from the blk/yel wire from ignition switch. Wire goes to dash fuse box and from there to the relay. no. 14 fuse.back probe blk/yel wire at relay with + probe, neg probe to blk wire at relay. Turn key to on. Battery voltage should be avail. No volts, check no 14 fuse ,wiring from ign. switch to fuse box, and fuse box to realy. also attach pos probe of meter to blu/wht wire and neg probe to blk wire. turn key to start. approx. 10v should be present. no volts check no 2 fuse and wiring between ignition switch and fuse box, fuse box to relay.(this is checking for voltage that goes to ecu from starter signal wire from ignition switch)
colnago

 

This thread is money believe me I have used it this weekend and its very helpful. People telling you to check this and that and this and that is well
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1483855

 

nice post! will help me in the future and hope it helps progress.
thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This thread is money believe me I have used it this weekend and its very helpful. People telling you to check this and that and this and that is well
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1483855</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've already printed that post out and saved it as one of my watched topics in case I forget it. Thanks!

 

Allright...tried another ignition switch but that isn't the problem. Dad read somewhere that a possible cause for the starting issue is a radio noise condensor? Does this sound possible? We're going crazy trying to figure this damn problem out. Anyone in North Jersey have any free time to help out a fellow Rexer? Thanks! If anyone has any other ideas as to the non-start please let me know!!! Thanks again!

 

Hey! did you just swap out the ignition switch, or did you test it. You will need a digital multimeter for this problem. Check things before replacing. I wish I was there to help out. Are these new parts or used. That's why checking is a better idea. If you need trouble shooting procedures I have the factory manual for testing things, I can email them to you. Also your dizzy is new, does that mean the coil and igniter are new. I believe the radio noise condenser, your talking about the wires that are shielded at the dizzy.

problem:
engine turns over- no start
Did you physically check for spark(like that post goforbroke listed)
Did you check for fuel pressure(no gauge, you can also smell for gas at throttle body
mainrelay is new
No spark condition: cause main relay(you replaced),cap rotor,coil, igniter,spark plug wires, plugs not gapped right(bad) all these things can be checked
*read the goforbroke link- i would check the blk/yel wire at dizzy to make sure it has 12volts. if not or if it does will tell you a lot.

check grounds, could be melted like your fuse box
colnago

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colnago &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey! did you just swap out the ignition switch, or did you test it. You will need a digital multimeter for this problem. Check things before replacing. I wish I was there to help out. Are these new parts or used. That's why checking is a better idea. If you need trouble shooting procedures I have the factory manual for testing things, I can email them to you. Also your dizzy is new, does that mean the coil and igniter are new. I believe the radio noise condenser, your talking about the wires that are shielded at the dizzy.

problem:
engine turns over- no start
Did you physically check for spark(like that post goforbroke listed)
Did you check for fuel pressure(no gauge, you can also smell for gas at throttle body
mainrelay is new
No spark condition: cause main relay(you replaced),cap rotor,coil, igniter,spark plug wires, plugs not gapped right(bad) all these things can be checked
*read the goforbroke link- i would check the blk/yel wire at dizzy to make sure it has 12volts. if not or if it does will tell you a lot.

check grounds, could be melted like your fuse box
colnago</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish you were here to help out too. Fortunately, my dad and his ex-honda technician friend will be working on the car tomorrow while I'm at work. As for testing the switch, I believe he did test it before he replaced it. I also asked if he was getting power to the dizzy and he said no. No power to the dizzy and main relay, therefore no power to fuel pump or ECU. Dizzy has been replaced as was the ignition switch. I'm going to tell him to check the grounds again. What about this Radio Noise Condenser thing? In the Haynes manual, it says if this thing goes bad, it can cause the symptoms I'm encountering. Thing is, I can't seem to find this condenser. The manual says it's on the right shock tower in the engine bay, towards the back. Thanks for your help!I'll have him check again what you listed.

 

yo i had the same problem and i replace every thing possable and it ended up beeing the ecu after i replace every thing you can i was really pissed off when i had one siting in my bed room
but just try to borrow another ecu and see if it startes

laterrr

 

Your car has one but it's built into the igniter unit inside the dizzy.. Older civics had them, early 80's I believe on the firewall. If your not getting power to dizzy, check blk/yel wire for continuity, from dizzy to connector in engine bay(pass side connecter near shock tower), then from connector to fuse box, then from other side of fuse box to ignition switch. This will tell where the short is, or what is bad if anything. you should probably also look into if ecu is getting power from relay. If it is, different ecu might be worth it. Have one if you need it. Just pay for shipping it's your's.

Modified by colnago at 9:02 AM 1/10/2007


Modified by colnago at 9:09 AM 1/10/2007