axle replacement gone horribly wrong =[
hey sup,
just replaced an axle.. got a b16-t in a 97 ex coupe.. after i finally finished the job i ran into some trouble with the castle nut that holds the lower control arm onto the balljoint. the balljoint threads were somewhat f'd up and i couldnt screw the castle nut on all the way because the threads would lock on the nut and the balljoint would spin with the nut. i tried using vicegrips to hold it in place but there was no where to really grab. any ideas on how to get the castle nut back on tight?
because the castle nut wouldnt go all the way on the cotterpin hadn't gone through correctly and broke and during my test drive around the corner... well.. no cotterpin lead to no castle nut which lead to no lower control arm.. which lead to tire sideways in wheel well and the axle is extremely over extended.. is the axle still usable? assuming the boots held up ?
yes i know im an idiot =/
great way to start the new year
just replaced an axle.. got a b16-t in a 97 ex coupe.. after i finally finished the job i ran into some trouble with the castle nut that holds the lower control arm onto the balljoint. the balljoint threads were somewhat f'd up and i couldnt screw the castle nut on all the way because the threads would lock on the nut and the balljoint would spin with the nut. i tried using vicegrips to hold it in place but there was no where to really grab. any ideas on how to get the castle nut back on tight?
because the castle nut wouldnt go all the way on the cotterpin hadn't gone through correctly and broke and during my test drive around the corner... well.. no cotterpin lead to no castle nut which lead to no lower control arm.. which lead to tire sideways in wheel well and the axle is extremely over extended.. is the axle still usable? assuming the boots held up ?
yes i know im an idiot =/
great way to start the new year
If the axle won't want to slip back together (inside the boot) to the normal length, you'll have to pull it apart, as well as get a new boot & repack the lube. My experience has been that they don't sell the cv boot band & lube seperately, but the combo is all cheap at a parts store. As long as you remove most of the old lube & don't let ANY dirt get in there, it will be fine. Before I sold my last car, I replaced the ACT clutch with the oem clutch (had 1k miles on the ACT), and the axle wouldn't come out & overextended. I had to take it apart to guide the rollers back in, and needed the new boot. Worked fine till the next owner crashed the car.
As for the ball joint, I'd say replace the whole thing. You'll probably want to inspect (& replace) the upper BJ because that's probably messed up too now.
As for the ball joint, I'd say replace the whole thing. You'll probably want to inspect (& replace) the upper BJ because that's probably messed up too now.
if you put downward pressure on the controll arm and ball joint it will stop it from spinning when you are putting on the nut. if you can have someone stand on it, if its on a lift hang from it with one arm while putting on the it works.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playahwitgame »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to sound liek an ******* or anything, but why did u even take it for a test run when you KNEW the job wasnt done correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually u saying that is pretty much just to be an *******.. cuz i dont really see any possible benefit of answering this question.. so in an effort to not be an ******* back
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by w0ng_sta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes i know im an idiot =/
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
actually u saying that is pretty much just to be an *******.. cuz i dont really see any possible benefit of answering this question.. so in an effort to not be an ******* back
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by w0ng_sta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes i know im an idiot =/
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's why you should replace axles the easy way instead of popping ball joints and all that. Ball joints are such ******.</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats your magical way of doing it.
whats your magical way of doing it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeypopshondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">find somebody with an impact...thats how you tighen it without the balljoint spinning</TD></TR></TABLE>
bingo!
bingo!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playahwitgame »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to sound liek an ******* or anything, but why did u even take it for a test run when you KNEW the job wasnt done correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm still confused on that part also.....You can just put weight on that balljoint and that will keep it from spinning enough to be able to tighten it. NEVER drive something when you know its wrong, thats just asking for trouble....
I'm still confused on that part also.....You can just put weight on that balljoint and that will keep it from spinning enough to be able to tighten it. NEVER drive something when you know its wrong, thats just asking for trouble....
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