hey guys this is what i have. now i was wondering what else my set up should have to make my lsvtec more bullit proff for a daily driver
Bottom end
B18B1 block
balanced and knifed crank
ACL bearings, (rod bearings, main bearings and thrust washers)
hasting piston rings
type r pistons

Head
Golden Eagle vtec conversion Kit
ARP headstuds
ARP rod bolts
Honda Type R oil pump,water pump and timming belt
65mm throttle body aebs intake man cai

stock LS tranny

thanks

 

get rid of that tranny

 

You have ARP rod studs??? Is that a cable LS or Hydro that you plan on running?

 

its a hydro tranny i dont plan on running it but ill have to live with it right nowbecause i can afford an LSD tranny. what r arp rod studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan’s integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a hydro tranny i dont plan on running it but ill have to live with it right nowbecause i can afford an LSD tranny. what r arp rod studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

The weak point in the LS bottom end are the rod studs, you need the stronger ARP rod studs in any LSVTEC application.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan’s integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a hydro tranny i dont plan on running it but ill have to live with it right nowbecause i can afford an LSD tranny. what r arp rod studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't necessarily need the LSD, but it helps a whole hell of alot. Oh, what head/cams are you using?

You might as well get the rods shotpeened too. Again, not necessary, but sure is worth it.

 

you dont need to knife edge the crank. have it micropolished instead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The weak point in the LS bottom end are the rod studs, you need the stronger ARP rod studs in any LSVTEC application.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He already listed ARP headstuds and rod bolts, no such thing as rod studs.

 

He probably meant rod bolts.

 

what kind of itr pistons? jdm or usdm? everything sounds nice except that tranny

 

Are you using usdm or jdm pistons? That makes a huge difference when trying to determine if you want to use pump gas. Jdm pistons will put you in the 11:5:1 range or higher depending on what you have done to the head.

 

The Ls rods are also very week I recomend getting eagle rods to handle the power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXJIM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Ls rods are also very week I recomend getting eagle rods to handle the power. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the rods are not weak. the rod bolts are.

 

if you want a bullet proof motor have them bull-nose the crank instead of knife edging it. have them drill out the little detents, flush it out and then replace the detents with threaded allen set screws when they are done. youll **** when you see how much bullshit falls out of a crankshaft. hasnt anyone else ever done this?

 

do u guys suggest using a block gaurd, egale connecting rods and the pistions are usdm. will i be alright with stock ls rods and crank micropolished and balanced.

 

well i got pretty much the same setup you do except i have crower cams, IM, TB, and a b16 trans. you should be good with no block guard. i heard they do more damage than good. but your motor should be more than good enuff for daily driving duties and weekend races

 

will there be alot of vibration with this motor? should i upgrade motor monts?

 

Stiffer motor mounts will induce vibration... The energy will not have a place to "die out".

Your setup sounds good to me. Just spend the extra money to get the eagle rods now. Rods aren't something that you just replace one weekend... Also, I would highly recommend that you get forged pistons as well. The LS block doesn't have oil squirter's, and cast pistons get too hot @ high RPM without the extra cooling. Just my opinion...

 

serious eh what type of pistions do u sugest? JE. Wasico or do u guys think i need them if iam a daily driver.

 

but dont forged pistion tend to hit the deck slightly??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of that tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2...

 

a good tune. nice setup

 

iam also looking to get cams what type do u sudgest

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan’s integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iam also looking to get cams what type do u sudgest </TD></TR></TABLE>

i suggest you look through the numerous setup threads in this forum and see what people are running and the results they're getting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxtc76 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stiffer motor mounts will induce vibration... The energy will not have a place to "die out".

Your setup sounds good to me. Just spend the extra money to get the eagle rods now. Rods aren't something that you just replace one weekend... Also, I would highly recommend that you get forged pistons as well. The LS block doesn't have oil squirter's, and cast pistons get too hot @ high RPM without the extra cooling. Just my opinion...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should be fine on stock rods and usdm itr pistons, especially if this is a daily driver. i drove for over a year on a simliar setup that used the same pistons and stock ls rods worry free. just my $0.02