tach install for 04 dx
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: menomonee falls, wi, usa
tach install for 04 dx
can anyone help me with a tach install? i tried using a tach adaptor and it didn't work correctly. i was wondering if their is a special way to install it or if im doing it wrong. thanks much!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 604
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From: Desmoines, IA, Us
Re: tach install for 04 dx (gitrdone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gitrdone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt the dx come with one already?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, the Dx is the lowest grade model of the EM seres lol
no power anything
no tach
but you can easily get a lx take and switch it over.
and a 1.7L D17a3 or somthing
no, the Dx is the lowest grade model of the EM seres lol
no power anything
no tach
but you can easily get a lx take and switch it over.
and a 1.7L D17a3 or somthing
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Marlboro, NY, USA
Re: tach install for 04 dx (rmfrakes)
Here's my tach install in a 2004 VP Coupe...
And here's how it's done...
The tach can be installed for less than $70 and about an hour's labor.
First, here is the tach itself...
Http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16330
Or
Http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16328
It's your choice whether you want a black or chrome face. I purchased my tach at Advance Auto (PartsAmerica).
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Tach
Wire butt splices and tap splices
Some additional 18 or 20 gage wire
Wire ties
Electrical tape
3M double-sided foam tape
Fuse tap (optional)
Wire coat hanger (for snaking wires)
Hand tools
Drill (optional)
INSTALLATION:
1. Remove the thumb nut and bracket from the tach. It won't be used in this installation.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. NOTE: Make SURE you have the radio code before you do this or else you'll have no tunes. Also remove the panel under the dash covering the fuse box.
3. You will need to notch the black dash bezel behind where the tach will be installed. This will allow you to snake the wires between the bezel and the instrument panel. There are two ways to do this. First method: Remove the bezel and notch it with a pair of diagonal cutters. Or method two which I used but you MUST be careful. Leave the bezel in place. Take a drill with a ¼ bit. VERY carefully drill down at a slight angle but take care not to go too deep or hit the instrument panel. This method worked and saves pulling the bezel.
4. Bend the wire coat hanger straight. Tape all the wires from the tach to it. Carefully push down thru the notch. You will need to work slowly and move the rod slightly to the side. Eventually the rod will push down under the dash and you'll be able to snake the wires down to around the fuse box.
5. Pull the wires on the tach until it sits in place on the dash. Position it level and check the zero adjust. If it is off adjust the zero screw on the back. Once adjusted properly cut some pieces of double-sided tape and place it on the back of the tach. Then push the tach against the instrument panel. If you have enough tape the tach should sit properly and securely in place.
6. Now you are ready to wire it up. The tach has 4 wires. Red wire is +12 volts with key on, black wire is ground, blue or white wire is dash lights, and green wire is tach signal from ECU. There are several options for wiring it up. Here is how I did it but I'll give some alternatives. First, to save time I tied the red wire and blue or white wire together. This will cause the light in the tach to be on at all times. But it's no big deal because you can't see it in daylight. If you prefer not to do this you'll have to wire the blue or white wire into the dash lights. Anyway, to get a source of +12 volts with key on I tapped the red wire into Fuse 18 (15 Amp) which is the Accessory Power Socket circuit. The black wire from the tach is ground. I found in the upper left under the dash a threaded hole. I used a screw of the correct thread pitch and a spade lug to connect the black wire to ground. If you prefer butt splice the red and black wires into the accessory power circuit then you can pry the dash panel around the power socket off and butt splice directly in. The red wire would butt splice to the yellow/green wire and the black wire to the black wire.
7. The final step is the green wire to tach signal from the ECU. The BEST and EASIEST way to tap into the ECU signal line is the blue tachometer test wire coming out of the wiring harness just to the left of the battery. Unfortunately this involves snaking the green wire thru the firewall but it isn't difficult. Just above the gas pedal there is a blue tube going thru the firewall. I believe this is a vacuum line for the HVAC system. Anyway, it's an excellent place to get the green wire thru the firewall. Around that blue tube is a rubber grommet. Very CAREFULLY pry the grommet away from the blue tube and slowly and carefully push the coat hanger with the green wire attached thru the firewall. Make SURE you do NOT damage the grommet. Make sure the green wire is against the blue hose. If you aren't careful the green wire may chafe against the body and cause a short. And this may damage the ECU. So make sure the wire is completely surrounded by the grommet and doesn't contact the metal body.
8. The green wire is not long enough to reach the blue wire by the battery. So you'll need to splice in additional wire. Wire tie this wire assembly away from the engine. Once you reach the blue wire tap splice into it.
9. You're done! Reconnect the negative terminal and test out your new tach!
And here's how it's done...
The tach can be installed for less than $70 and about an hour's labor.
First, here is the tach itself...
Http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16330
Or
Http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16328
It's your choice whether you want a black or chrome face. I purchased my tach at Advance Auto (PartsAmerica).
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Tach
Wire butt splices and tap splices
Some additional 18 or 20 gage wire
Wire ties
Electrical tape
3M double-sided foam tape
Fuse tap (optional)
Wire coat hanger (for snaking wires)
Hand tools
Drill (optional)
INSTALLATION:
1. Remove the thumb nut and bracket from the tach. It won't be used in this installation.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. NOTE: Make SURE you have the radio code before you do this or else you'll have no tunes. Also remove the panel under the dash covering the fuse box.
3. You will need to notch the black dash bezel behind where the tach will be installed. This will allow you to snake the wires between the bezel and the instrument panel. There are two ways to do this. First method: Remove the bezel and notch it with a pair of diagonal cutters. Or method two which I used but you MUST be careful. Leave the bezel in place. Take a drill with a ¼ bit. VERY carefully drill down at a slight angle but take care not to go too deep or hit the instrument panel. This method worked and saves pulling the bezel.
4. Bend the wire coat hanger straight. Tape all the wires from the tach to it. Carefully push down thru the notch. You will need to work slowly and move the rod slightly to the side. Eventually the rod will push down under the dash and you'll be able to snake the wires down to around the fuse box.
5. Pull the wires on the tach until it sits in place on the dash. Position it level and check the zero adjust. If it is off adjust the zero screw on the back. Once adjusted properly cut some pieces of double-sided tape and place it on the back of the tach. Then push the tach against the instrument panel. If you have enough tape the tach should sit properly and securely in place.
6. Now you are ready to wire it up. The tach has 4 wires. Red wire is +12 volts with key on, black wire is ground, blue or white wire is dash lights, and green wire is tach signal from ECU. There are several options for wiring it up. Here is how I did it but I'll give some alternatives. First, to save time I tied the red wire and blue or white wire together. This will cause the light in the tach to be on at all times. But it's no big deal because you can't see it in daylight. If you prefer not to do this you'll have to wire the blue or white wire into the dash lights. Anyway, to get a source of +12 volts with key on I tapped the red wire into Fuse 18 (15 Amp) which is the Accessory Power Socket circuit. The black wire from the tach is ground. I found in the upper left under the dash a threaded hole. I used a screw of the correct thread pitch and a spade lug to connect the black wire to ground. If you prefer butt splice the red and black wires into the accessory power circuit then you can pry the dash panel around the power socket off and butt splice directly in. The red wire would butt splice to the yellow/green wire and the black wire to the black wire.
7. The final step is the green wire to tach signal from the ECU. The BEST and EASIEST way to tap into the ECU signal line is the blue tachometer test wire coming out of the wiring harness just to the left of the battery. Unfortunately this involves snaking the green wire thru the firewall but it isn't difficult. Just above the gas pedal there is a blue tube going thru the firewall. I believe this is a vacuum line for the HVAC system. Anyway, it's an excellent place to get the green wire thru the firewall. Around that blue tube is a rubber grommet. Very CAREFULLY pry the grommet away from the blue tube and slowly and carefully push the coat hanger with the green wire attached thru the firewall. Make SURE you do NOT damage the grommet. Make sure the green wire is against the blue hose. If you aren't careful the green wire may chafe against the body and cause a short. And this may damage the ECU. So make sure the wire is completely surrounded by the grommet and doesn't contact the metal body.
8. The green wire is not long enough to reach the blue wire by the battery. So you'll need to splice in additional wire. Wire tie this wire assembly away from the engine. Once you reach the blue wire tap splice into it.
9. You're done! Reconnect the negative terminal and test out your new tach!
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Re: (b0yg0tskills)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b0yg0tskills »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the em2 ex redline at 7500 rpm?..</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. 6700rpm.
No. 6700rpm.
Grace Under Pressure
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 0
From: The Fugitive Motel
Re: tach install for 04 dx (Miracle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D17A3??? There isn't a D17A3...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Somebody on a UK forum says he used to have a d17a9 with 137bhp!!!
I almost hunted him down and kicked him in the face for being a liar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Somebody on a UK forum says he used to have a d17a9 with 137bhp!!!
I almost hunted him down and kicked him in the face for being a liar.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Clarksville, TN
Re: tach install for 04 dx (Axe Man)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Axe Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>
You know what guys... I am in NO WAY a fan of aftermarket gauges in a non performance oriented car...
But that looks good. Clean install, no wires, and it looks like it belongs there.
:thumbup, good writeup, and nice DIY.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You know what guys... I am in NO WAY a fan of aftermarket gauges in a non performance oriented car...
But that looks good. Clean install, no wires, and it looks like it belongs there.
:thumbup, good writeup, and nice DIY.
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Marlboro, NY, USA
Re: (rmfrakes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why didnt u install the tach on the inside recess? i didnt think it looked that clean. kinda sticking out you know? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Quite simple. I didn't want to pull the entire dash apart and then try to cut a hole in the bezel. This was the best alternative.
I do have future plans to install an oil pressure gauge on the opposite side to "even" things out.
Quite simple. I didn't want to pull the entire dash apart and then try to cut a hole in the bezel. This was the best alternative.
I do have future plans to install an oil pressure gauge on the opposite side to "even" things out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: menomonee falls, wi, usa
Re: (b0yg0tskills)
im unsure about which blue wire you are talking about. the wire diagram i have doesn't include the ecu. also there are about 5 or 6 blue wires located next to the battery. so i don't want to just start cutting things. does anyone have a picture i cant look at explaining which wire it is or possibly a wire diagram or a site to get one? thanks......
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Marlboro, NY, USA
Re: (rmfrakes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmfrakes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im unsure about which blue wire you are talking about. the wire diagram i have doesn't include the ecu. also there are about 5 or 6 blue wires located next to the battery. so i don't want to just start cutting things. does anyone have a picture i cant look at explaining which wire it is or possibly a wire diagram or a site to get one? thanks......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look down between the passenger side headlight and the air intake. There is a large black wiring harness assembly. Coming out of the wiring harness is a single blue wire with a connector. And it should not be connected to anything. That is the tach signal line from the ECU. And that's where you tap in.
Sorry, no pix. But it should be fairly obvious once you find it.
Look down between the passenger side headlight and the air intake. There is a large black wiring harness assembly. Coming out of the wiring harness is a single blue wire with a connector. And it should not be connected to anything. That is the tach signal line from the ECU. And that's where you tap in.
Sorry, no pix. But it should be fairly obvious once you find it.
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