Anyone dd a B20 set up in that Hp range? I looking to drop it in to my Crx after I get some bodywork done. I have a budget of about 3000-4000. Is Headwork A must at that level? What compression levels are you guys running? If anyone could post up there set up's so I could get an idea of what I need to buy I would appreciated it. Thanks

 

do a search for tbone's old setup. 260 or so whp and his daily driver.

 

Yeah I was searching and found his set up but i only found the Gsr set up.

 

same thing basically. 2L. big hp. only i think he was using a gsr crank.

 

let me kow too

 

Yes headwork is a must. Thats a **** load of power all motor. I have a built B20 with 84.5mm pistons. My final compression was just about 12:1. I have a fully ported head and cams plus valve train. I made 220 whp. I am however still using a stock intake manifold and throttle body. I have already ordered both of these but even with that and a tune I know im not gonna touch 250. You might be able to go with a bigger bore, but thats going to require sleeving. I sleeved my motor and if you smart you should do the same especially if you have the money for it. As far as compression goes you might be able to bump up more than 12, just maybe not on pump gas. O yeah a good tune is going to be the most important part of this motor. Without a good tune you will have nothing. I suggest an OBD1 conversion with a chipped P28. Tuning with crome is probally your cheapest and best bet.

 

from what i can remember of tbone's setup, he had:

- lots of port work from rlz
- dart 85mm block
- ~13:1 compression
- buddy club IV cams
- gsr crank
- jenvey itb's
- custom smsp header
- lots of dyno time and tuning

he was making close to 260whp which is very good

 

Do you know if that was pump gas or race gas? I know 13:1 is achivable on pump gas, however its a little risky. If you get one batch of bad gas you can kiss your motor good bye. Also if you want to go 13:1 on a b20 you have no choice but to sleeve the block. As I said before the he should sleeve it no matter what.

 

i *think* it was on 93 or 94. search for his old threads.

 

It was on race gas. Even on the street.

 

How many of you B20 guys have posts welded in the block? Any? I might do this when I build my B20.

 

please dont if you cant afford sleeving just buy a block guard. What part of drilling posts in your block seems like a good idea. Yeah i know, "but I know a guy who knows a guy who had a boosted 800000whp b20 with block post and it ran for 100 years."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please dont if you cant afford sleeving just buy a block guard. What part of drilling posts in your block seems like a good idea. Yeah i know, "but I know a guy who knows a guy who had a boosted 800000whp b20 with block post and it ran for 100 years." </TD></TR></TABLE>

ENDYN does it. Nice try, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes headwork is a must. Thats a **** load of power all motor. I have a built B20 with 84.5mm pistons. My final compression was just about 12:1. I have a fully ported head and cams plus valve train. I made 220 whp. I am however still using a stock intake manifold and throttle body. I have already ordered both of these but even with that and a tune I know im not gonna touch 250. You might be able to go with a bigger bore, but thats going to require sleeving. I sleeved my motor and if you smart you should do the same especially if you have the money for it. As far as compression goes you might be able to bump up more than 12, just maybe not on pump gas. O yeah a good tune is going to be the most important part of this motor. Without a good tune you will have nothing. I suggest an OBD1 conversion with a chipped P28. Tuning with crome is probally your cheapest and best bet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinken 12:1 for pump gas maybe 13:1 Any insight?
I had no plan on sleeving it, I have a block gaurd and that was as fas as I am whilling to go for this set up. Like i said this is going to by my DD. Pump gas a trip or to to the drag strip nothing big. I am plan to have it tuned by headgames. Is full headwork need or just a clean up light Port and polish? Just looking for 250whp
Thank

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88sleeperx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a budget of about 3000-4000. Is Headwork A must at that level? What compression levels are you guys running? ...

...Is full headwork need or just a clean up light Port and polish? Just looking for 250whp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

new to hondas? ummm, too bad you're JUST about 8 grand under budget for the huge amount of tq/ci required to hit 250 at a sane rpm. i dont care what parts mix you throw at it, 250 to the wheels will not come without the due dilligence of an expert. the motor in question (Tbone's) had more miles on the dyno than it did on the street and nothing about it was done "lightly."

dial back your expectations until youve got 10k for the motor and tuning.

 

thats exactly what i would have said.

 

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/


I want to build a motor like that. Notice how they weld in the block posts....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> new to hondas? ummm, too bad you're JUST about 8 grand under budget for the huge amount of tq/ci required to hit 250 at a sane rpm. i don't care what parts mix you throw at it, 250 to the wheels will not come without the due dilligence of an expert. the motor in question (Tbone's) had more miles on the dyno than it did on the street and nothing about it was done "lightly." dial back your expectations until youve got 10k for the motor and tuning. </TD></TR></TABLE> Ah............. no I'm not but thanks for asking. I have never build up a honda motor though 10K wow? I have how ever talked with ERL and Earl Laskey about 6 months or so about building a GSR motor and there prices are far below that. SO i believe I will hold out for a better opion on building my motor I was looking though post ur all-motor stock sleeves b20vtec builds thread and there are quite a few running around 230-250 range and looking at there set up's I don't see $10,000 but maybe we get our parts from different people

 

Coming from someone who is a diehard Bseries fan...if you want 250+whp, it is much cheaper to build a K24. You can break 270whp without touching the K24block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Coming from someone who is a diehard Bseries fan...if you want 250+whp, it is much cheaper to build a K24. You can break 270whp without touching the K24block.</TD></TR></TABLE> By cheaper you mean??????????? I already have the b20 and I can justify buying a new engine for a DD setup. Now I have given thought to a K swap in my Eg but prices are a bit high a k20a with a k24 head setup is about what it would cost to have a engine builder sleeve and build the bottem-end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88sleeperx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prices are a bit high a k20a with a k24 head setup is about what it would cost to have a engine builder sleeve and build the bottem-end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And you still would only be making 210-230whp, even with a sleeved, high compression 2.0L B-series. I've been involved with plenty of B-series builds, including my own, and 250whp is a chore. We've assembled and tuned engines with full Endyn heads and huge cams with more compression than most like to run, and they still don't break 250whp.

Expect to spend $6,000-$9,000 for a 250whp B-series, depending on how you buy your parts, used or new. A 91 or 95mm crank makes the job easier though.

You can find TSX longblocks for under $2000, find a transmission/axles and mount kit, buy a good header and RBC intake manifold, and without even opening up the valvecover you will be making 230whp and way more torque than any B-series. You'll even have a bunch of money leftover for K-pro and tuning. Add cams and you'll be creeping close to the 270whp range, still on an all OEM bottom end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And you still would only be making 210-230whp, even with a sleeved, high compression 2.0L B-series. I've been involved with plenty of B-series builds, including my own, and 250whp is a chore. We've assembled and tuned engines with full Endyn heads and huge cams with more compression than most like to run, and they still don't break 250whp.

Expect to spend $6,000-$9,000 for a 250whp B-series, depending on how you buy your parts, used or new. A 91 or 95mm crank makes the job easier though.

You can find TSX longblocks for under $2000, find a transmission/axles and mount kit, buy a good header and RBC intake manifold, and without even opening up the valvecover you will be making 230whp and way more torque than any B-series. You'll even have a bunch of money leftover for K-pro and tuning. Add cams and you'll be creeping close to the 270whp range, still on an all OEM bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mounts, brackets, and miscellaneous things ie. transmission/axles +++++ into a crx = alot. I would like to see your dyno's of sleeved high compression B's not making 250hp If K swaps were so cheap more people would be doing them.

 

your rite,their is a lot of b20 making over 250hp ,because most of the 260 hp b20s are dynoed on dynojets.for example cft in orlando just tuned a wite typ r with a b20 and maid 226hp /168tq on a mustang dyno sow do the math, what like 270 on a dynojet.and it doesnt have $10,000in the eng. it all depends on the combination you use and the tuner.wich out heir is colombia .sow in other words it could be don.just do some research..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ENDYN does it. Nice try, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So. Can you personally vouche for a block posted motor?

If you owant more thatn 250whp thatn you must do full head work. If you want to use a b20 block you really will want to get that thing sleeved. There are alot of motors running stock sleeves, however they usually dont last that long. I have already gone over all of this in my pervious post but I guess you dont really want to listen. Im not trying to sound like an *** or anything, but I have done a couple of B20's.