Ok guys, I just searched and saw 100 different posts with 101 different answers.

I have a jdm b16 swap in my car now. I have wanted to do a "poorman itr" swap for a while now and since it is winter, and I got a christmas bonus, I decided to go through with it now

I just picked up a 99 gsr complete shortblock.

I ordered used ( pulled right out of a jdm swap i would imagine ) Itr rods/pistons/rings

Obviousley, I am going to buy new oem rings, and rod bearings. But I wanted to make sure I will be able to use the itr rods in the gsr block?

So far I have bought-

-gsr shortblock
-jdm itr rods/pistons

Things I know I need
-new oem rings
-new oem rod bearings

What else do I need to buy while I am in the block ?

 

...Head Gasket... Maybe get some ARP head studs/bolts, and ummm.... well I can't think right now... someone else post and help this man!

 

*hone the block
*new OEM gasket kit
*stronger rod bolts
*stronger headstuds...

 

Thanks a lot for the help.

-hone the block is must so that is on the list now
-rod bolts and headstuds will now be upgraded. I believe arp makes both ?

- by oem gasket kit, do you mean the oil pan gasket, and a few gaskets and orings come in it ?
Acura faxed me a few pictures, and that looks like the gasket kit you are talking about.


Also Mugen or OEM headgasket ? I have never really looked at the difference in the two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si2See &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot for the help.

-hone the block is must so that is on the list now
-rod bolts and headstuds will now be upgraded. I believe arp makes both ?

- by oem gasket kit, do you mean the oil pan gasket, and a few gaskets and orings come in it ?
Acura faxed me a few pictures, and that looks like the gasket kit you are talking about.


Also Mugen or OEM headgasket ? I have never really looked at the difference in the two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think there are sponsors on here that sell the complete bottom end gasket kits. For the headgasket, I would use the Mugen one. Since you are using the b16 head, your compression points will drop some. The mugen headgasket will help bump up your points a little bit.

 

You want # 2 and mine as well get #1 also... you should always put on a new OEM gasket on the valve cover after removal. And that liquid gasket **** sucks!

http://www.acuraautomotivepart...y.jsp

 

in regards to the headgasket, it depends on what compression ratio you are shooting for. with the b16 head you will drop compression, but with the jdm itr pistions, you should be around the mid 11's already with using an oem head gasket. a mugen one might put you closer to the 12 mark. do a search for compression calculator and run the numbers. i think that mid 11's is pretty ideal for a daily driver.

 

Thanks thats the exact picture the acura dealer in richmond faxed me. Number 2 is what I was talking about, and I was going to get a valve cover gasket, then valve seals seperate because, once I finish the block, I am ordering brian crower cams, valve springs and retainers.

Anyone know of a H-T vendor that stocks the Mugen Headgasket?

 

i will let you know how my gsr type r build goes after the dyno

 

Thanks pnoyEj6, what is your setup?

 

When ordering the arp rod bolts and head studs, I order by the head I will be using which is b16 correct?

And does anyone see a problem with using an OEM ITR headgasket with this setup? I am making one intial order to acura this afternoon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si2See &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When ordering the arp rod bolts and head studs, I order by the head I will be using which is b16 correct?

And does anyone see a problem with using an OEM ITR headgasket with this setup? I am making one intial order to acura this afternoon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I were you, I'd slow down a little bit. Do some more research, and then make a parts list of all the things that you need. This will help keep things more organized and sometimes it saves you money.

 

Thanks, I am not a newbie to anything except the bottom end, I have never rebuilt one.

I have the block sitting here, the rods and pistons on the way, and I need to order the things so when it gets torn down I have most everything I need. I appreciate all the help I am getting, but that is why I am asking the questions in my thread, because everything i searched has several answers.
I am making a list and things are starting to line up so thanks for everyone's help so far.

 

you haev to haev the block bored if your using jdm itr pistons liek you said you are. because they wont fit in the block. +.25mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomIntegraGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you haev to haev the block bored if your using jdm itr pistons liek you said you are. because they wont fit in the block. +.25mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

unless he has stock sized pistons

 

exactly, which they are std bore.

 

I would really recommend using the Golden Eagle Head & Main Studs.

 

Items you should get:
Arp headstuds and rod bolts. I believe you use the GSR headstuds because the b16 ones will be too short.
New OEM pistons rings
OEM or ACL rod and main bearings
New B16 water pump with B16 timing belt
New GSR or and Vtec oil pump
New headgasket
All other gaskets for the block except maybe the oil pan gasket unless you can see flaws in it.

Things you should do:
Do a final hone on the cylinder, BUT WAIT until you get the pistons and new rings and bring them to the machine shop. This way you can make sure the piston to wall clearance is correct for your setup. This will be a huge factor in your motors longevity.
Polish the crank and get the whole rotating assembly balanced.

If you do all this it will cost a little bit, but you will have a pretty strong and reliable motor. Good luck.

 

thanks a lot smiley, one of the best replies yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
New B16 water pump with B16 timing belt
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the b16 belt is too short. you need a b18c belt.

 

pay more attention to the cylinder head.

 

Im not sure about the b18 timing belt I thought the only diffrence wasthe tooth count. What head are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not sure about the b18 timing belt I thought the only diffrence wasthe tooth count. What head are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

all BVTEC water pumps have 22 teeth. non vtec b pumps have 19. the difference is the b16 belt is shorter because of the b16's shorter deck height. so you would need a b18c belt.

 

all right thats good to know. all Vtec oil pumps have the same tooth count dont they.

 

i just said they did