Time to change the breaks
but the noise is only coming from the back brakes, should I change everything or just the back? Also, the car isnt tracked but i do some spirited driving, so would it be worth it to get performance pads or should I just get something like what they have at autozone? is there a BIG difference between pads I can get from autozone and performance pads as far as braking power or do the performance pads just last longer under heavy conditions? Thanks
Modified by SiR99 at 4:01 PM 12/26/2006
Modified by SiR99 at 4:01 PM 12/26/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the noise is only coming from the back breaks, should I change everything or just the back?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should inspect all four corners. If the brake pad material is too thin only in the rear - which is probably what you'll find - then only replace the rear pads.
You can see the thickness of the brake pad material at the top of the outside pad by looking through the spokes of the wheel, without removing it. Although this isn't as thorough as removing the wheels and inspecting the full pad on both sides, this can often tell you when your pads need replacing (and you won't have to wait until they start squealing).
If you're not sure where to look at the pad material thickness, ask a friend who is handy with cars to show you. The same friend can also show you how to change the pads if you've never done it before and you'd like to do it yourself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car isnt tracked but i do some spirited driving, so would it be worth it to get performance pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should I just get something like what they have at autozone?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't. Auto parts stores sell generic brake pads that are designed to fit a lot of cars using the same shape and size of pads. They are usually low-performance, low-noise, low-dust pads that are not suitable for use on a high-performance car like the ITR, IMHO. I recommend using either stock pads or a high-performance aftermarket street pad (Cobalt GT Sport, Carbotech Bobcat, Porterfield R-4S, Hawk HP+, etc).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a BIG difference between pads I can get from autozone and performance pads as far as breaking power or do the performance pads just last longer under heavy conditions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The biggest difference is that quality aftermarket performance pads can tolerate more heat when you're doing spirited driving (or the occasional autocross or track event). Generic auto parts brake pads may easily fade or glaze over, becoming ineffective.
BTW, they're brakes, not breaks.
You should inspect all four corners. If the brake pad material is too thin only in the rear - which is probably what you'll find - then only replace the rear pads.
You can see the thickness of the brake pad material at the top of the outside pad by looking through the spokes of the wheel, without removing it. Although this isn't as thorough as removing the wheels and inspecting the full pad on both sides, this can often tell you when your pads need replacing (and you won't have to wait until they start squealing).
If you're not sure where to look at the pad material thickness, ask a friend who is handy with cars to show you. The same friend can also show you how to change the pads if you've never done it before and you'd like to do it yourself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car isnt tracked but i do some spirited driving, so would it be worth it to get performance pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should I just get something like what they have at autozone?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't. Auto parts stores sell generic brake pads that are designed to fit a lot of cars using the same shape and size of pads. They are usually low-performance, low-noise, low-dust pads that are not suitable for use on a high-performance car like the ITR, IMHO. I recommend using either stock pads or a high-performance aftermarket street pad (Cobalt GT Sport, Carbotech Bobcat, Porterfield R-4S, Hawk HP+, etc).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a BIG difference between pads I can get from autozone and performance pads as far as breaking power or do the performance pads just last longer under heavy conditions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The biggest difference is that quality aftermarket performance pads can tolerate more heat when you're doing spirited driving (or the occasional autocross or track event). Generic auto parts brake pads may easily fade or glaze over, becoming ineffective.
BTW, they're brakes, not breaks.

IMO i would go with some autozone/advance pads. they are lifetime warranty and they have done the job on many of my cars. of course i wouldnt get them if you are a high performance type driver.
what is spirited driving. does that mean the occasional "go fast, brake hard" type driving?
i never understood what it meant.
Modified by baonest at 12:03 PM 12/26/2006
what is spirited driving. does that mean the occasional "go fast, brake hard" type driving?
i never understood what it meant.
Modified by baonest at 12:03 PM 12/26/2006
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