Ive been looking for some axles, either gater or DSS

Anyone

 

napa all the way life time warranty

 

Yeah but im sick of changing axles or worring about them im gonna be over 1800 km from home.

 

I make 260whp and 220wtq and run auto zone axles. I have never had a problem with them. Just don't dump the clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaggrieger30 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I make 260whp and 220wtq and run auto zone axles. I have never had a problem with them. Just don't dump the clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good words


Most people that break axles are the ones that don't know how to launch. Slipping the clutch is more effective in lower 60 fts and doesn't break ****.

 

ive broken oem axles, never broke an autozone one. i ran them in my sohc and dohc turbo motors, some of which making over 300 whp

 

I live in canada guys. I never launch my car im afraid to snap them. I want a set of axles 1 when im 1800km away from home im not gonna tow my car to some shop i do not know and pay them 2 hours plus full pop for a axle. 2 i need my car to be reliable lol

I think im just gona order a set of DSS stage 2.9 and call it a day

 

When you have strogner axles, what breaks is going to be next on the list, aka, Tranny/differential.

I make about 500whp in a heavy teg and race on drag radials. I've broken a few axles but I'm also running cheapo reman ones with rebuilt outer joints. I prefer to snap cheap axles cause it's alot easier to fix an axle then it is a tranny etc. I jsut bring a spare set of axles with me and if something goes wrong, I just swap it at the start line in 15 mins. Usually I do not break them at the joints, I sheer them clean off at the spline. I want my weakest link to be the easiest/cheapest fix.

 

i ran gator stage 3's on my crx last year.. cable ls trans, and 22x8x13" slicks with 7psi in them, launched at 8k, just lucky nothing broke. Well traction bar hemi joints snapped on drivers side. Next season, im definaly going to preload more to try and prolong the life of the setup since it will be track only and trailered there.

Dude.. It dosent matter how far away you are, just dont drive like an animal and your setup wont break, it dosent seam like you want to take any advice and are set of aftermarket axles, so go out and buy them and i hope you feel better If your going aftermarket i would personally go DSS

As for at the track, bring a spare set as well as tools, have someone who you could call to come pick you up via, car dolly, car trailer or flatbed (get CAA and push your car off the property of the track) and you need slicks or youll be like the guy above.. 130mph and cant break 11's

 

Im using factory NAPA replacement axles.

I made 273whp/224wtq on my setup... Ive ran 16 times at the track on 23" slicks usually launching 5000rpm+ (off the rev limiter most of the time).

I cut a 1.7 60' and never had any problems.

Preloading will save your axles from snapping.

 

We do not have good axles here in my area. Ive tried the OEM honda ones they had like 160,000 km and snapped at the track. I never launch on the street i usualy bog it out and then hammer it but next year after the snow i think im going to do , DSS stage 2.9 and a set of LCON traction bars with the new LSD tranny and gears.

I know NAPA axles may be good im not sure whats the difference but the companies ive used here are junk i break them once in a while.

When im out of town i do not beat the car but the odd time ill bang second and spin threw 2nd and thats were i break them.

And as for wheel hop i never get any on the street, at the track yes and thats why my axle snapped lol

 

also i had JK motorsports traction bars, as well as filled tranny and engine mount, and a SOLID rear mount, i took a steel plate and welded it solid. Car is also right near stock ride heigh (axle almost straight) so i had absolutly NO wheelhop at the track on the slicks, i feel this helped me too. Wheelhop is worste destroyer.

 

learn to drive and you wont break axles. preload the clutch

 

Bogging the car is also rough on things...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan89crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">learn to drive and you wont break axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
4 years on autozone axles making over 250whp and no problems.
Last year we were over 400whp on autozones, 8 passes at the track on 24.5's and no problems. I think part of the trick is making sure you spin the tires off the line, scrub off a little driveline shock. Works for me

 

I know how to preload my axles and when i mean bog the car i do not launch it at 8000 rpm i slip it at 3000-4000 and go i would like to have the trust in the car to launch at higher rpms and i will just get the dss just wanted to see what AFTERMARKET axles people used.

Josh

 

I've always launched between 7-8k on slicks. I don't side-step the clutch or anything, just let off of it as quick as you can with your foot. Hope some of this info helps

 

Do you guys hold the rpm at certain point too when preloading the clutch? Sorry for a noobie question. Learner something everday.

 

I am bouncing off my launch control so that's when I preload.

 

Lifetime warranty autozone axles and preloading is the way to go. Cause if you break the tranny which is at high risk especially with the d series tranny that will suck a lot more especially that far away from home! Just take another set of axels and take them back when you get home!

 

can someone explain how you preload exactly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Panoply &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can someone explain how you preload exactly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks I was going to ask this.

 

When youre ready to go. Just pull the ebrake up to hold the rear, set your launch rpm, slowly let off the clutch a tiny bit until it starts to bite. Doing so, will make the rear o the car squat since the car is trying to move forward and also this takes the slack off the drive train and suspension that way there is no initial 'shock' when you dump the clutch. As soon as light goes green, dmp the clutch and drop the ebrake at the same time and away we go.


Modified by Tchleung at 12:34 PM 1/3/2007

 

oh okay, thanks for the explanation

 

im makin 320whp and 265ftlbs and im plannin on turning the boost up on stock axles. did one 5500 rpm two step and dump at the track and i broke both axles and a diff learned to preload after that. but after i learnd to do that everything has been fine...