Is this worth $145.00 plus $65 shipping USED??

 

Looks like it's in good condition. I believe I've seen them for $250 brand new. I don't know about $65 for shipping though . International maybe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like it's in good condition. I believe I've seen them for $250 brand new. I don't know about $65 for shipping though . International maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah man, $65 seems WAAAAYYYY too much bro. as long as you are happy with it, its all that matters

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rino924 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah man, $65 seems WAAAAYYYY too much bro. as long as you are happy with it, its all that matters </TD></TR></TABLE>
$65.00 does sounds steep and it is oversea.
Thanks for input and I will sleep on it for now.

 

got minds for 200 shipped from the best seller in the world Lucky R i like it!

 

it doesnt even make a difference. save the cash for some brake pads or a clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by actionanh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got minds for 200 shipped from the best seller in the world Lucky R i like it!</TD></TR></TABLE>i love you brother

 

OMG!
They are that much now???

I don't recall when I got mine (years ago) but I paid less then 120 shipped.

To all those who waited HA HA

 

How can you actually tell if that is actually genunie or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyw3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can you actually tell if that is actually genunie or not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think anyone has ever made a replica of the rear oem itr strut bar correct?

 

lol buy a spoon bar for cheaper

 

indeed, keep your money - that thing is more then usless! For $200 you can get a Carbing/Spoon/Password JDM/Cusco bar which is brand new and much more sturdy!

JDM is overated!

 

IMo its overrated oem bS same as the front one that looks the same get aftermarket mugen, cusco, carbing etc.....

 

Thing is theyre not even exclusively JDM bars as they were sold as an option by honda dealers in europe also!!

Get an ebay rear bar, it'll do as good a job as that one will do!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6ajk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">indeed, keep your money - that thing is more then usless! For $200 you can get a Carbing/Spoon/Password JDM/Cusco bar which is brand new and much more sturdy!

JDM is overated! </TD></TR></TABLE>this is the most contradictory post of the day look at the brands you just listed above and then what you wrote below after listing them...thats inane to say the least.

the people that look for this bar isnt on some stupid "brand wagon" that some people here are postulating. the honda access oem rear strut tower bar is for the astute itr owner looking to maintaing the OEM LOOK of the car rather than turning to most-off the shelf candy-wrapped offerings that are available on every damn website on the net. sure, you can get an aftermarket bar for less, wooptief'n do. plus one for the commonwealth at your next car show. and what mathematical calculations/studies have some of you sourced to back up your claims that "x" bar is sturdier than "y" bar? stop talking out of your asses some of you if you dont even know what the hell you're talking about. when it all boils down to it, it comes down to opinion and personal preference. no need to bash something just because it exists.

and to the original poster...educate yourself before sending the cash. this issue has been discussed here a multitude of times in terms of market value, function, comparison and what to recognize between genuines and fakes. there is enough info to make the right decision....FOR YOU.

 

hum i think i saw one for sale for cheaper than that and it included the stock rear plastic covers OEM cut for that bar, lemme see if i can find it quick

 

ahh N/M, the one i saw is more money, but some people would pay it for the covers...

http://www.hondamarketplace.co...35488

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lucky-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the most contradictory post of the day look at the brands you just listed above and then what you wrote below after listing them...thats inane to say the least.

the people that look for this bar isnt on some stupid "brand wagon" that some people here are postulating. the honda access oem rear strut tower bar is for the astute itr owner looking to maintaing the OEM LOOK of the car rather than turning to most-off the shelf candy-wrapped offerings that are available on every damn website on the net. sure, you can get an aftermarket bar for less, wooptief'n do. plus one for the commonwealth at your next car show. and what mathematical calculations/studies have some of you sourced to back up your claims that "x" bar is sturdier than "y" bar? stop talking out of your asses some of you if you dont even know what the hell you're talking about. when it all boils down to it, it comes down to opinion and personal preference. no need to bash something just because it exists.

and to the original poster...educate yourself before sending the cash. this issue has been discussed here a multitude of times in terms of market value, function, comparison and what to recognize between genuines and fakes. there is enough info to make the right decision....FOR YOU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well said

 

Best bar for myself in my own opinion. I am not a "Bar" man that likes those crazy bars but I do like my OEM ITR bars in my own OEM ITR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lucky-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the most contradictory post of the day

the people that look for this bar isnt on some stupid "brand wagon" that some people here are postulating. the honda access oem rear strut tower bar is for the astute itr owner looking to maintaing the OEM LOOK of the car rather than turning to most-off the shelf candy-wrapped offerings that are available on every damn website on the net. sure, you can get an aftermarket bar for less, wooptief'n do. plus one for the commonwealth at your next car show.

and what mathematical calculations/studies have some of you sourced to back up your claims that "x" bar is sturdier than "y" bar?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

While i agree with you that his post is contradictory, I wouldn't say it's the topper for the day.

If the astute R owners you speak of are simply interested in maintaining a particular "look" for their R, at the expense of cost and function, then I wouldn't cast them into a different group than the guys at the car shows who are sporting the latest and greatest JDM brand on their car.

You don't need an equation (or at least be able to regurgitate one on h-t) to know that there are designs out there that are superior to that of the optional rear strut tower bar from Honda. I can tell you that from a design standpoint, any strut tower bar that uses mounting brackets that elevate the bar over the strut tops (i.e. Honda Access, Spoon, Neuspeed, etc.) in an effort to clear the rear paneling, will be more prone to flex under stress. Think of trying to flex a wishbone vs. a bone of the same thinkness that is straight across. Although I cannot speak for the properties of the metal that xyz company uses, I like the Mugen and PWJDM rear strut bar since they run straight across the rear strut towers and are ONE piece construction, no fasteners or pivot points that may compromise the rigidity of the bar.

 

I bought my rear bar brand new to match my front for $150 shipped just over a year ago.

They are available in the UK for about 95 GBP.

 

i am also of the opinion that the jdm rear strut bar is kinda flimsy, i used to own one, i could flex it with my bare hands when it was mounted. i tried doing the same thing to my rigid and cusco cf bars, no movement whatsoever

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Although I cannot speak for the properties of the metal that xyz company uses, I like the Mugen and PWJDM rear strut bar since they run straight across the rear strut towers and are ONE piece construction, no fasteners or pivot points that may compromise the rigidity of the bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>


and if you want to maintain the plastic around the towers without having to either strip it or cut damn ugly holes in it


after not having a strut bar and then installing an OEM one, it felt a lot better. the difference in stiffness you guys are talking about will mean extra or minimal flex of maybe 2mm extra while the cars cornering? and thats being very, VERY generous.


if you guys can feel that difference while you're drive, i'd be very impressed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am also of the opinion that the jdm rear strut bar is kinda flimsy, i used to own one, i could flex it with my bare hands when it was mounted. i tried doing the same thing to my rigid and cusco cf bars, no movement whatsoever</TD></TR></TABLE>


i nearly forgot.


a strut bar is meant to be strong under compression. when you are flexing it you are putting tensile loads on it in a different direction to what its designed. as such saying that it isn't as good at its job because of that is meaningless

and yes structural engineering is a part of my living

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lucky-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the most contradictory post of the day look at the brands you just listed above and then what you wrote below after listing them...that's inane to say the least.

the people that look for this bar isn't on some stupid "brand wagon" that some people here are postulating. the Honda access oem rear strut tower bar is for the astute itr owner looking to maintaing the OEM LOOK of the car rather than turning to most-off the shelf candy-wrapped offerings that are available on every damn website on the net. sure, you can get an aftermarket bar for less, wooptief'n do. plus one for the commonwealth at your next car show. and what mathematical calculations/studies have some of you sourced to back up your claims that "x" bar is sturdier than "y" bar? stop talking out of your asses some of you if you dont even know what the hell you're talking about. when it all boils down to it, it comes down to opinion and personal preference. no need to bash something just because it exists.

and to the original poster...educate yourself before sending the cash. this issue has been discussed here a multitude of times in terms of market value, function, comparison and what to recognize between genuines and fakes. there is enough info to make the right decision....FOR YOU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now I am not sure how you derived to most contradictory post, but either way you're entitled to your opinion like I was.
What I posted is purely from my experience, having owned about 10 different rear strut bars on my EG/EK/DC2R, I simply provided some feedback. One trend I have noticed is that any rear strut bar on DC2R driven on a street or track is not going to shave noticeable time or give the chassis a more rigid feel.

But if you must have one, why not simply fork out the money for something that's new and looks more sturdy then the bar in question. Mathematical calculations are not always necessary to distinguish a more rigid bar from a one that flexes more simply from design point of view and materials used. To quantify my finding is impossible but it can be said that one piece design, with no elevated attachment points for bar, is going to be more rigid and simply sturdier, then one that follows the opposite!

-=JDM is overated=- statement simply states not to jump on bandwagon and buy not becuase its JDM and must be good, but rather for the function!

IMHO the bar is not worth the money, as I am not looking for to score points at the show and get respect of HT members, but rather for one that will improve rigidty of my chassis.