Welding my block, what to look out for?
So we're at the shop the other day and my buddy/employee somehow managed to totally destroy the threads for a water return line for the turbo (SR20DET), now I have an M14x1.5 fitting that normally threads into this hole and then allows me to attach a -6 AN line on the other end. The threads inside the block are totally mangled now and instead of drilling and doing all sorts of nasty stuff to a totally finished engine I am thinking of cutting the fitting in half and just welding it onto the block.
I'm sure this isn't an issue and i've seen it done countless times, however there is a problem. I've never tigged before and i'm picking up my tig in a few days. I've got a few spare engines so i'm going to try this a few times for practice first on other engines, but what should i look out for? needless to say if i screw this up big time its going to be a nightmare.
What rod should I use? Thanks so much boys and Merry Christmas
EDIT: to clear things up, the threads inside the block where messed up while removing the factory turbo from this engine, and now when putting in my aftermarket aluminum fitting to attached a -6 line to it obviously wont take.
I'm sure this isn't an issue and i've seen it done countless times, however there is a problem. I've never tigged before and i'm picking up my tig in a few days. I've got a few spare engines so i'm going to try this a few times for practice first on other engines, but what should i look out for? needless to say if i screw this up big time its going to be a nightmare.
What rod should I use? Thanks so much boys and Merry Christmas
EDIT: to clear things up, the threads inside the block where messed up while removing the factory turbo from this engine, and now when putting in my aftermarket aluminum fitting to attached a -6 line to it obviously wont take.
god, thats like the worst thing to start on...some tips; clean, clean, clean, remove the outer layer of metal around the weld and the anodizing on the fitting, use the TIG to heat up the whole area to try and cook out any oils, clean it again with solvent, dont use any stone grinders, ummm GOOD LUCK!
I would think about taping out the hole to 5/8-18 and using a 5/8 bolt weld a -6 end to it try to get a grade 2 bolt as it will be the easiest to drill thru
the ither thing is that you can try to chase the threads as its not going to take very many good threads to hold the fitting as ther is no real stress on it 20Lbs of water pressure is nothing
If you really feel that it needs to be welded then take it to someone that knows how as that it a difficult thing to weld normally becasue of contamination from the coolant easy for someone with experience but not a job for a beginner
tig filler rod 4043
the ither thing is that you can try to chase the threads as its not going to take very many good threads to hold the fitting as ther is no real stress on it 20Lbs of water pressure is nothing
If you really feel that it needs to be welded then take it to someone that knows how as that it a difficult thing to weld normally becasue of contamination from the coolant easy for someone with experience but not a job for a beginner
tig filler rod 4043
you need to get someone with a tig that has constant AC high freq to weld this. the hf constant cleans the metal as its being welded.
cast is a pita and thats the only way ive been able to weld it.
you shouldnt attempt this since youve never welded tig before.
cast is a pita and thats the only way ive been able to weld it.
you shouldnt attempt this since youve never welded tig before.
No, no, no.....I was at my local weld supply buying some rod and what not. Well the 3 fingered guy who works there busted out some alumilloy and was putting together beer cans with it. I was like, man that's alright. Just so happened I had an LS block out of car that was in an offset head on collision. The accident basically broke some pieces off the block that allow the driver side mount to bolt on.
Well, I bought this ****, and I'll be damned it's been holding A+ for over a year now. I used MAPP gas to heat up the area, then the stuff just flowed like solder. I grinded it flat, drilled and tapped....bam it was beautiful. I'd use this for this problem in a heart beat. It advertises a 30,000 psi tensile strength, and threads extremely well. I was surprised to say the least. The bolts torqued down and the threads held like a charm.
Well, I bought this ****, and I'll be damned it's been holding A+ for over a year now. I used MAPP gas to heat up the area, then the stuff just flowed like solder. I grinded it flat, drilled and tapped....bam it was beautiful. I'd use this for this problem in a heart beat. It advertises a 30,000 psi tensile strength, and threads extremely well. I was surprised to say the least. The bolts torqued down and the threads held like a charm.
I don't even know it was specifically the brand alumilloy....the guy just grabbed some and said "try it out". He didn't charge me or anything.
I know that if you google alumilloy though, you'll find it.
I know that if you google alumilloy though, you'll find it.
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How far in did he mangle the threads? I would run a M14 tap into it and clean up the threads. If that won't do, re-tap to 1/4" NPT. Don't weld a fitting to the block, you'll regret it.
if you are worried about the metal shavings heavily grease a tap using wheel bearing grease and tap the hole the metal will stick to the grease, ease her in and out a few times and regrease to make sure you got all the metal. I had to do this a few weeks back on a air compressor that I dropped off the forklift and the oil fill tube was BSPT and I made it 1/2 npt. take your time and there wont be any metal in the hole.
so moral of the story grease taps to hold on to chips and band strap compressors to skid when your driving around with them over bumps so they dont fall off and break 500 dollars worth of stuff
so moral of the story grease taps to hold on to chips and band strap compressors to skid when your driving around with them over bumps so they dont fall off and break 500 dollars worth of stuff
Yeah just retap it, its just the cooling system. I'd be weary if it was say a oil fitting on the block or something, but like the guy above me said, grease up the tap, and then maybe blast some water through it with a pressure washer from the other water inlet/outlet or whatever, even if there is chunks of metal in there, it will get caught in the radiator most likely and it wouldn't even be a big deal.
i had the hole in the back of the block for the oil pressure sending unit welded shut the other day. long story short, a friend over tightened it and cracked the expletive out of it. local welding shop torched the hell out of it then tigged her shut. no leaks. oh by the way.. oil was still in the engine haha.
thanks guys i'll try to find this aluminum **** and then tap it, although i dont know where to find an M14 tap. i'll have to use an NPT tap or something.
i hve a spare block here i think im going to try and weld it first, if it takes well then I will weld the fitting on (after a LOT of practice obviously)
i will clean the small bit of aluminum VERY throughoughly. the welder im picking up is a lincoln 185 amp, older model. i know it has pulsed operation but im not sure if it has high frequency option or not. I think if I get the surfaces clean enough it won't be a big deal?
thanks so much for the help guys. Merry Christmas!
i hve a spare block here i think im going to try and weld it first, if it takes well then I will weld the fitting on (after a LOT of practice obviously)
i will clean the small bit of aluminum VERY throughoughly. the welder im picking up is a lincoln 185 amp, older model. i know it has pulsed operation but im not sure if it has high frequency option or not. I think if I get the surfaces clean enough it won't be a big deal?
thanks so much for the help guys. Merry Christmas!
thank god
I was able to find a tap locally (m14x1.5) and I tapped the hole out using the grease method as reccomended (thanks very much btw) and it worked like a charm. the fitting got about 8 full turns so it was holding pretty good, and I was able to tighten it to the normal torque. I dont think there will be any problem, however if there is I will have to fix it with my new tig!
I was able to find a tap locally (m14x1.5) and I tapped the hole out using the grease method as reccomended (thanks very much btw) and it worked like a charm. the fitting got about 8 full turns so it was holding pretty good, and I was able to tighten it to the normal torque. I dont think there will be any problem, however if there is I will have to fix it with my new tig!
Thanks for response for once I wasnt called crazy for one of my ideas i post on here. post some pics when she is finally running
-matt
-matt
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