alright, so today when i finaly got up and going out the door (12:00 after leaving the car sit for aprox. 10 hours over night (take in mind i live in the inland northwest and our winters are no rain storms). i went to back out of the driveway and i noticed the clutch peddle was very soggy and had a hard time coming back up after being depressed , i tryed revs. and the gear wouldn't engage, just grind. after letting the car warm up and pumping the clutch a bunch, i was able to get it into gear and for pretty much for the rest of the day (christmas shopping!) it didn't give me none but a few minor problems. later this night after letting the car sit for another 1-2 hours (9:00pm) i went out to get some last minute things, and the same thing, it wouldn't engage. this time i let it warm up to proper running temp. and no luck i was finaly able to slam it into revs. but just stalled. the car will not move. whats wrong?

 

dislocated clutch line? it's a 92 civic so i'm sure it's hydraulic. do i have a bad clutch master cylinder? frozen clutch fluid? thanks for your time guys!

 

possible water in fluid that can freeze drain, refill, and bleed and see where that gets you

 

Leak in the clutch line or air in the clutch line for sure.



It builds pressure when the car is on - that's why you're getting a response then. No vacuum / loses vacuum when the car is off - that's why it doesn't come back.

Tighten the bleeder cap on the slaver cylinder and bleed the clutch. If that doesn't work you probably have a leaky MC or SC. Although it is still indeed possible that you sprung a leak in the clutch lines - but I doubt it.

 

awesome, i'm smokin a bowl now and i'll be taking a look at it later. would a blown fuse be an issue also? like the fuse to the MC? i don't know but you guys gave me some good ideas. so what does it mean if the the MC resivor (<-spelling) is full? you know the first thing that came to mind when i first encountered it was that becasue of the freezing temps. latly the lines could have been frozzen. are clutch lines usealy prep tough ? thanks again

 

i had a simmilar problem and it was my master cylinder was bad and allowing the fluid to bypass and the clutch peddal would drop
i could put my foot under the peddal and bring it back up and it would work fine
when i replaced that everything worked good

 

happened to me today... just bought some new dot4 and blead it and it's smoother than before.

 

unfortunetly i have a good for nothing chilton and none of the resivors in the engine are labeled. but i'm tryin to find the MC & SC. i feel like a dumb *** but i'm pretty sure they are the big/small ones right in front of the drivers side right? haha

 

ok so i found both cylinders and my chilton it says the bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder. i'm guessing the slave cylinder is the smaller one right? which screw/bolt is it?

 

the one with the bolt is the slave ... or the bleeder
the master cylinder is the one attached to the fire wall

 

so the slave is the one hooked up to a black circle on the fire wall or is the slave located else where? so now my clutch peddle has absolutly no feel/no engagment. if the master cylinder is attached straight to the clutch peddle and my peddle just flops up and down, would that mean the MC would be the direct cause? or would i need to investigat replacing the SC also? thanks for responding

 

The MC is the small one right next to the large brake booster on the fire wall. The slave cylinder is on the transmission clutch housing to the left of the header. It should have a large rubber square boot attached to the trans. First get in the car pull back the carpet and look where the clutch pedal goes through the fire wall look for fluid running down the fire wall

 

yeah the sc is what you want to replace there not very expensive and very easy to replace
you bottle bleed your lines... i found that was the best way to do it