I remember reading you can awhile back ago but I can't find the thread.

 

all you have to do is put power/ground to the starter and a jumper to activate the solenoid. Also, hold the TB open. i did it with jumper cables and a little wire jumping from the + to the solenoid terminal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all you have to do is put power/ground to the starter and a jumper to activate the solenoid. Also, hold the TB open. i did it with jumper cables and a little wire jumping from the + to the solenoid terminal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that for the compression test? There's no tranny.

 

oh i was thinking you had an entire swap.

i dont know how else to do it without a trans.

 

Back from the dead , i am planning to do this on the swap i have for sale tomarrow. Can anyone shed any more light.

Main question what solenoid do you mean?

 

 

 

He meant the starter solenoid. Normally where the blk/wht wire goes.

 

The one that just "plugs" into the starter right. Not the large one that bolts...

 

anymore ideas on how to do this without the tranny?

 

You can do a leakdown test with the motor out. Can't do a compression test without having the tranny attached (or if someone can hold the starter attached to the flywheel which calls for a disaster waiting to happen, and another jumping the starter and a third doing the compression test then you might be able to pull off a compression test).

 

Yeah never do that LOL. Probably end up ****ing something up, like the hands of the person trying to hold the starter on the flywheel.

A leak down test is always better anyway, it tells you the same thing a compresion test would but it goes more in depth. A compression test is a good start, but the cylinder can still build compression but might have an issue the leakdown would find.

 

good info

 

place the cylinder you want to test in tdc compression stroke. force 100 psi. in there. read how much air is still in there. such as putting 100 psi air. you get 96 psi actually reading. you have a 4% air leak (which is normal) 100 psi is good cause its easy to calculate the percentage of air loss

 

it could be a pain in the a** trying to keep the engine at tdc with the compressed air. I like to use some thing to keep the cams from spinning which usually involves removing the valve cover. Or you canuse a harmonic balancer tool to hold the crank. but its gonna spin so be carefull that it does spin the wrong way.