I am purchasing a jdm front for my dc2 and im still in need of a radiator support and fenders, so my question , what are the pros and cons of the tbar vs. the pros and cons of a full radiator support,

any insight on this will be appreciated...

 

uh... I would say, try to find the full rad. support just to be safe. The "tbar" will work, but just for peace of mind I would rather get the whole piece. Either way, it should work, all your doing is drilling out old one, and welding in new one.

Good luck

 

I am going to start cutting on Jan 2, doing the T-Bar support swap.

My reasoning; With the T-Bar I am not removing the entire radiator support, and I had worries of messing with the alignment of the frontend. It's also less work in terms of drilling spotwelds, and rewelding. From my research, it also appears that this method yields less alignment issues during reassembly.

I am out of town, but I can post several links using both methods. It's really personal preference. I'm doing the T-Bar swap for the reasons stated above, and honestly, it's less "hacking" on my car which makes me extremely nervous as it is.

Goodluck, and post questions/answers along the way. Let's keep these thread active for those currently doing this swap.

 

for the same reasons i am considering the t-bar, post the links up

 

i rather do the t-bar since it wouldnt touch the factory welds.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1346217

http://www.masetuning.com/jdmc....html

im really torn between the two methods.

 

im leaning torward mases method, you dont touch the factory welds, and looks like the final lining up job will be much simpler, not to mention its reinforced with the original radiator support

 

I used the t-bar method... theres really no reason to punish yourself and swap the entire rad. support...if you swap the entire piece, you triple the work... IMO as well as a few of my mechanics, the less frame you mess with, the better... using the T-bar allows you to keep many more factory welds...saves time if you're installing yourself, money if you're having it installed and it will be easier to align everything because you'll only have to mess with a lightweight segment of the support as opposed to the entire piece.... t-bar hands down

 

yep.. it's just more work to swap the whole thing.. the lower portions of the two rad supports are identical. the t-bar is all you need..

for whoever said they'd be worried about messing up the alignment, it's not really very hard to get it straight. Honda made it so it fits like it's supposed to without a ton of margin for error.

 

More links:
C-Speed

 

Make sure to weld in the small "L" shaped brakcets for the headlights (the one near where the bumper support bolts up). I believe PasswordJDM is carrying these brackets now in the t-bar kit...

I'm doing a JDM front a second time after doing my first one in 2000 which was a whole rad support swap. I'm trying out just doing the t-bar swap this time around. Make sure to get a quality spotweld cutter! It's worth the time and headaches saved!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makibaka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure to get a quality spotweld cutter! It's worth the time and headaches saved!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed! I use Blair spot weld cutters and they seem to work pretty well as long as I keep the speed down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Indeed! I use Blair spot weld cutters and they seem to work pretty well as long as I keep the speed down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Link to 3/8'' spotweld bit

 

Yo dude I do paint and body work for a living and from a safety stand point you need to put the hole support in, But far as you are worried about alginment it has line up hole on the car for the support to macth to so you cant expletive this one up trust a monkey can put a support in an acura
peace out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1slammedsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yo dude I do paint and body work for a living and from a safety stand point you need to put the hole support in, But far as you are worried about alginment it has line up hole on the car for the support to macth to so you cant expletive this one up trust a monkey can put a support in an acura
peace out </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you give more supportive evidence on why swapping out the whole radiator support is safer?

I believe the pro's and con's of t-bar vs. full radiator support alignment wise have been covered, so let's focus on the safety aspects.

IMO, the reuse of the USDM reinforcement is key from a "Safety Standpoint."



Modified by coolhandluke at 11:25 PM 1/8/2007

 

NICE links and info here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1slammedsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yo dude I do paint and body work for a living and from a safety stand point you need to put the hole support in, But far as you are worried about alginment it has line up hole on the car for the support to macth to so you cant expletive this one up trust a monkey can put a support in an acura
peace out </TD></TR></TABLE>

From just reading your post, I wouldn't listen to a word you have to say.

Just do the T-bar!! Al ot easier and absolutely no reason to do the whole support!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

From just reading your post, I wouldn't listen to a word you have to say.

Just do the T-bar!! Al ot easier and absolutely no reason to do the whole support!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats right, you just need the T, thats what i did and says you time.

 

The US spec radiator support is a lot stronger than the JDM one, so you can still jack you car up from the front on the US one. I have the T bar and Ive had the full support swap. In my opinion you should just do the T bar. It keeps the alignment process alot easier, its a lot stronger than the JDM radiator support and its easier to do. Falme all u want but its true.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The US spec radiator support is a lot stronger than the JDM one, so you can still jack you car up from the front on the US one. I have the T bar and Ive had the full support swap. In my opinion you should just do the T bar. It keeps the alignment process alot easier, its a lot stronger than the JDM radiator support and its easier to do. Falme all u want but its true.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree completely agree(without restating the above mentioned information in this thread.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The US spec radiator support is a lot stronger than the JDM one, so you can still jack you car up from the front on the US one. I have the T bar and Ive had the full support swap. In my opinion you should just do the T bar. It keeps the alignment process alot easier, its a lot stronger than the JDM radiator support and its easier to do. Falme all u want but its true.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a question about this, so does that mean you can't jack the car by the radiator if you have the JDM radiator core? Or does that just mean it's not as safe/strong?

 

My friend still uses the radiator support as a jacking spot. I'm not a huge fan of it, but its been holding up just fine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend still uses the radiator support as a jacking spot. I'm not a huge fan of it, but its been holding up just fine..</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can do it, but i wouldn't suggest it. The JDM radiator support is lighter, just like everything else on the type r. Also the welds on the radiator support are not the original ones so there not as strong as factory.

On my other integra, i had the full swap, i still jacked it up on the support but i was really carefull.

 

Im going with the T-bar aswell once I can find one for cheap.. Im a lazy Son of a Biatch Plus I cant trust my welding to save my life... I know people leave the JUST bolted but hell no... Im not that lazy LOL.. Hey but it does work for some people

 

I think you can buy the t bar pretty cheap brand new from password...