Hey do you guys know any "off the shelf puttys, JB weld etc that aactually work for sealing a crack on a stock exhaust manifold header????

 

Jb weld.

Im not sure is the stock exhaust manifold cast iron.

If not, you could just weld it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jb weld.

Im not sure is the stock exhaust manifold cast iron.

If not, you could just weld it</TD></TR></TABLE>

JB Weld's ony good to 500 degrees.

 

try asking this question in the welding/Fab section.

 

Yeah, welding a header is tricky since you gotta make sure that you don't have the welding machine set too hot for the thin material you're working with.

It may be cheaper to get a second hand header...

 

Yea, try getting your hands on a 99-00 ex Stock exhaust mani.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, try getting your hands on a 99-00 ex Stock exhaust mani.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I got mine off ebay for $20!

 

i would drill out the end of the hairline fracture then proceed to seal the by welding a plate over it

 

What kind of header is it?

 

if it is your 1996 EJ8 and you have less than 140k miles, take it to the dealer and they will replace it for free, along with any other emission related parts that are failing 95-97 civics have 10 yr 140k mi extended emissions parts warranty. (maybe it was 150k mi)
my 96HX had a cracked header and I got all the work & parts done at no charge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teal_dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it is your 1996 EJ8 and you have less than 140k miles, take it to the dealer and they will replace it for free, along with any other emission related parts that are failing 95-97 civics have 10 yr 140k mi extended emissions parts warranty. (maybe it was 150k mi)
my 96HX had a cracked header and I got all the work & parts done at no charge </TD></TR></TABLE>

Negative, only if you have a CEL, ive tried this game before, didnt work anywhere.

Oh and take it from me, over $60 bucks in merch trying to fix a cracked/leaking header, you will NEVER find anything to seal that. New header is the only option. I just ended up getting a 99-00 OEM ex exhaust manifold and am very happy. JB weld will melt right off and possibly start a fire.

Ive even tried almost 4 pounds of Metal tape with thermo steel (which is rated like 2k degrees) nothing, no great sucsess.

Get a new one

 

if you can't duct it, expletive it

p.s. i was kidding, don't use duct tape
just get a cheap used one

 

hey guys, thanks for all the comments Well JB is't an option for me since it can't hold up, and I do not know how to weld. There must be some high temp putty/epoxy out there but i guess it's all temporary.

Wish i could have the dealer do it but my CEL light isn't on. It is a stock header.

The real and proper thing to do is to replace my header I guess. I would like to keep the header stock, searched on ebay for a stock one couldn't find a good price.What I will do is check out japanese used parts shops and if the price is too much I'll go with a decent priced aftermarket performance header. DC sports have had too much headers crack on people, so i will go another brand.

 

If your cheap just buy a gay ebay header

 

Only easy way to weld a stock cast iron manifold, is to heat it up with a torch and get a cast stick rod.

Even then it will still look like ***.

 

Just get yourself one of the black pacesetter headers. Google for the cheapest place. That's what I did when I snapped the O2 sensor off in my stock manifold.
New sensor + pacesetter header = fixed for around $200

 

wat i used for my old header crack was just use exhaust manifold repair kit..holds up to 2000 degrees ..or you can get a turbo kit and throw ur header away like i did

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rayz_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There must be some high temp putty/epoxy out there but i guess it's all temporary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bwahahaha... there is, and it isn't. Well, it depends on your definition of temporary. If you'd like a cheap fix that will probably outlast the car, I've got it.

Furnace Cememt FTW!


http://www.northlineexpress.co...RU-65

Just pull the exhaust manifold, clean it up nicely with a wire brush, follow the instructions on the tub, and avoid getting it on your skin at all costs. Warm up procedure can be taken care of by just installing it after it dries, then letting car idle until the engine warms up, then driving it. I fixed the manifold on my D16Z6 this way, and my father fixed countless domestic cars the same way. It works, and it's cheap.

Oh, and support your local hardware store... buy it locally. I only paid like $15 at my local hardware store, and I've got enough left to do another 3 or 4 manifolds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec4lyfe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your cheap just buy a gay ebay header</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah I'm a el-cheapo that likes the best value, I was actually considering an Ebay heqader which is priced cheap, heard less of them cracking like DC sports headers did, but It will cost a good coin in labor to replace that because i sure can't

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qat727 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bwahahaha... there is, and it isn't. Well, it depends on your definition of temporary. If you'd like a cheap fix that will probably outlast the car, I've got it.

Furnace Cememt FTW!


http://www.northlineexpress.co...RU-65

Just pull the exhaust manifold, clean it up nicely with a wire brush, follow the instructions on the tub, and avoid getting it on your skin at all costs. Warm up procedure can be taken care of by just installing it after it dries, then letting car idle until the engine warms up, then driving it. I fixed the manifold on my D16Z6 this way, and my father fixed countless domestic cars the same way. It works, and it's cheap.

Oh, and support your local hardware store... buy it locally. I only paid like $15 at my local hardware store, and I've got enough left to do another 3 or 4 manifolds. </TD></TR></TABLE>


This sounds like what im' lookin for bro! thanks so much amazing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rayz_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This sounds like what im' lookin for bro! thanks so much amazing</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're welcome... let me know how it works out. I've been happy with mine, and I'm about to fix another car the same way.

 

I landed on the topic of the furnace cement manifold repair today with my father. He did mention that in the past, it did eventually flake off, but he had no time line. I've had mine fixed with this for somewhere around 5 months at this time.

After brainstorming on this for a bit, you could probably extend the life of the repair even more. There are header and muffler wraps out there, usually with fiberglass tape. You could do the furnace cement like normal, then cover it tightly with the fiberglass tape and wrap. That should work like normal, then hold it in place if it ever decided to turn loose. If you saturate the fiberglass wrap with the cement while you're putting it on, it could hold even longer.

I just figured that forewarned is forearmed.

 

UPDATE!!! Pulled off heatsild and inspected to find there is a long crack going right aound the header tube on cylinder 4 runner.

This is no-brainer for me that it cannot be fixed. Oh well time to order me a new performance header Thanks for the insight guys

 

Guys pease give me some insight on pros and cons between ceramic header and stainless steel headers

 

Duct it or expletive it....lol