1999 Accord

Car wont start some days but most of the time it does. I've read that its the security device in the key but I don't know...

I know its not going to start when I start it, the engine will ignite once or twice for about a second then die. From there on out I cant start it for like 30 minutes or more.

Check engine light is on due to insufficient flow (egr) but I'm not totally sure that it would be causing this.

Thanks a lot.


Modified by joenoreason at 4:51 PM 12/22/2006

 

There is important info missing

Nice edit thanks it will help you get more accurate info and quicker answers


Modified by hondadude at 11:12 PM 1/1/2007

 

check the motor starter, motor starter relay, batterey, etc, etc... heard from your problem maybe u have to change a new relay

 

I've got the same problem with mine, every couple of months it won't start at all until it gets a boost, then it runs fine until the next time. My problem turned out to be the battery cable (neg.), the terminal connector is rusty and the bolt is stripped, so I just got a knew one of them!

 

what year is your accord? also when you turn the ignition to the on position without starting it does the check engine light turn on for a sec then shut off?

 

Sorry I don't know how it slipped my mind. The car is a 1999 Accord...

When i turn the key to the on position i get 6 beeps. During the beeps - between the second beep and the third - the engine light flashes off and immediately back on and stays on.

 

Happened again today...

 

The engine turns over fine it just never fires.

Also, the car has 125k Miles on it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joenoreason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Happened again today... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Still can't see how many cylinders ??
Cold start flooding?
Turn the key on wait 5 seconds then crank.

 

4 cylinder - I always wait 5 seconds before cranking but it still happens to me.

Cold start flooding? I don't know... Its happened to me after driving to the gas station to get gas. After I filled the tank, it was a no go... Waited about 15 minutes trying here and there and finally it started

 

damn, happened today.... I replaced the plugs which needed it. Next im going to replace the fuel pump and filter... I don't know though, i mean it runs fine when it DOES start. Wouldn't it run bad if the filter/pump weren't clogged / working correctly?

 

more or less, there are a few sings of the pump going out. Also have you ever changed the filter? if not or it has been awhile(30k) change it. then do a fuel pressure test, it should be about 32-45psi I don't rember off hand. try to disconect your battery, and clean the cables with a wire brush, and soda. then when you put them back on make sure there tight. if the car still gives problems hit the starter with a hammer, not to hard now, but then try it. if it works reblace the starter.

 

Ok I think the problem is the pump... Turning the key to the on position with my ear underneath the car I can hear the pump priming for about 2 or so seconds. I am pretty sure this wasnt happening when I couldnt start the car... I'm just going to replace the pump and filter since its been at least 35,000 miles for sure since either has been touched, and something tells me that the previous owner never maintained the filter...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joenoreason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, happened today.... I replaced the plugs which needed it. Next im going to replace the fuel pump and filter... I don't know though, i mean it runs fine when it DOES start. Wouldn't it run bad if the filter/pump weren't clogged / working correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you are correct if the pump was putting out low pressure you'd have problems; FYI the 'filter' in your car is the sock on the end of the fuel pump.

I'd suggest a little further diagnostics before shelling out money for a new fuel pump;[over $200 for a fuel pump] maybe consider a test light to PROVE if the fuel pump is or is not gettting voltage.

 

check your fuel pressure regulator and see if it is working in addition to checking your fuel pump. Intermittent fuel pump will cause the problem you describe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your fuel pressure regulator and see if it is working in addition to checking your fuel pump. Intermittent fuel pump will cause the problem you describe.</TD></TR></TABLE>So will intermittent main relay. Like Hondadude says, before spending $$$ you should determine what's actually screwing up.

 

yeah but if the main wasn't working, the pump wouldnt work at all right?

 

I re soldered the main relay just in case there were any problems with the joints like I've read around the internet. I've been soldering for most of my life so I'm sure that - aside from the relay itself malfunctioning - the relay should be working fine.

Last night when I drove from point A to point B, the car was idling very poorly. Idling low. Low enough to just barely stay running. On the deceleration of the RPMs especially badly. Basically I had to try and keep the RPMs above 1k by riding the brake and using neutral at stops to prevent myself from not being able to restart the car - as im sure by the way it was idling wouldn't have restarted.

After leaving point B about an hour later, the car ran great again... Just a little more insight to my problem. Hopefully it will give some clues.

 

did you do a fuel pressure test? if not do one, what is it at? how many miles sencie you last did a tune up, or changed the oil, or changed the fuel filter?

 

I'll try and test the fuel pressure today.

I've had the car for roughly 25-30k miles. It has 125,005 miles on it now. It was my girlfriends car for 99% of the 25-30k miles since purchase and Its now mine again. It hasn't had a tune up or fuel filter change, but I changed the fluids and oil filter at regular intervals. She had a habit of driving on empty almost constantly which I know makes the pump work harder.

 

if you've eliminated the fuel main relay then it could be the fuel pressure regulator. honda had a bulletin out for updating fuel pressure regulator, piping, and the ecu for bad programming. more apparent in snow belt states. fuel filters were supposedly lifetime after 1995?? more one fuel pressure regulator, occurs because fuels formulated for cold weather driving and abnormally warm, causes lower boiling point and car spit and sputters till fuel flows good. otherwise main relay common problem on 1998-2002 accord 4 and 6 cylinders

 

Well, the car has started fine every day since the day i replaced the plugs... This definitely fixed the starting problem that i initially had; although now the car idles poor almost wanting to bog out and one night (not for too long) it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders.

I haven't had a chance to do much work or testing because of the weather but hopefully maybe this new information will help lower the possibilities of things that could be wrong.

 

Hmm, CEL has been on for insufficient flow before all of this happened but I just recently figured, well if its already been on, then i'd never know if a new problem occurred since i would just figure it was the insufficient flow... anyhow... I pulled the codes again (using a paper clip) and got 9 short blinks, a pause, then the 8 long blinks and a pause.

if I'm reading this correctly, thats code 9, and code 80 (insufficient flow)

Code 9 is showing

CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* invalid code for throttle body injection Hondas
** invalid code for V6 engines


Interesting...? From what I can tell its in the distributer, cannot be replaced by itself, and could very well be causing issues like mine. Gonna test the ohms when I get home to see...