When i bought my amp (600w), it was the first time I had installed one by myself. I installed it and it worked fine and everything, and it hooked to a 500w sub.

The installation amp wires had the little notes attatched to them and it had the left+ and -, and right + and -, inputs. And it had the sub output. But when I turn up the bass on my speakers, (i have the fade set to the rear speakers mostly), both my rear speakers' and sub's, but i just want my sub to do the bumping.

is there any way for it to do this?

i dont have the 'volume' on the amp turned up all the way because i dont want to blow the speaker

 

Put "bass blockers" or a high-pass filter on your interior speakers as a short term fix.

Or, purchase a better deck with built in crossovers on the front & rear speaker outputs.

 

yea, those bass blockers would do the trick. Does your amp use RCA cables, or did you have to splice into your speaker wire?

 

Get a new deck that supports crossovers and you're set. The deck you currently have might support crossovers... check to see.

 

connect your front and rear speakers to the front speaker outputs on your head unit and run your amp off of the rear speaker outputs, then you can fade between your mids/highs and your subs by fading front to rear. In the future you need a head unit with subwoofer rca outputs so that you can adjust you subs independently.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
connect your front and rear speakers to the front speaker outputs on your head unit and run your amp off of the rear speaker outputs,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah. Great idea. Run 4 speakers off outputs designed for 2.

Do not do that. The internal amp in a deck is not bridgeable...

 

i had to splice into my rear speakers

 

You need a deck with non fader outputs. All but the cheapest of decks have them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah. Great idea. Run 4 speakers off outputs designed for 2.

Do not do that. The internal amp in a deck is not bridgeable... </TD></TR></TABLE>


Actually your not bridging anything smart guy. Briding is using the left pos and right neg. You are simply connecting two 4 ohm speakers to each of the front speaker outputs on the head unit. This will drop the impedance on the head unit to 2 ohms which is within tolerance of almost any head unit.


Modified by countryintegra at 8:09 PM 12/21/2006

 

basically by splicing into your rears for input on the amp you are doing the same thing as running 2 speakers off of one channel anyways.....

 

i am also running on the stock CD playa

any suggestions on a good deck?

 

Most any new units are junk, you will definitely get what you pay for. You just need something with subwoofer volume control rca outputs. I fyou are looking for inexpensive but decent...i reccomend JVC or panasonic. A little higher up i would go with Eclipse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually your not bridging anything smart guy. Briding is using the left pos and right neg. You are simply connecting two 4 ohm speakers to each of the front speaker outputs on the head unit. This will drop the impedance on the head unit to 2 ohms which is within tolerance of almost any head unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay. Thanks for setting me straight. LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Okay. Thanks for setting me straight. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>N/P

 

I was being sarcastic...

And yes, while some decks will "tolerate" a 2 ohm load, most will not, and wiring units this way is definitely not the standard, and is most often done by ghetto installers or those who simply don't know any better.

Try getting warranty service on a deck with blown speaker outputs because it was driving a 2 ohm load... You'll probably be told to get bent...

 

connecting a high to low level converter on speaker outputs does the exact same thing. Some of the best car audio manufacturers have made 2 ohm speakers to specifically optimize power output from head unit amplifiers like sounstream spl coax speakers. A 2 ohm load on a head unit would never cause a malfunction or be questioned by a warranty service dept as cause of problems. Many factory component speakers cosist of 4 ohm mids with 4 ohm tweets which puts a 2 ohm load on the factory head unit. Amazing how a fact radio can withstand such "ghetto"ness. Someone obviously Has no MECP skills, But i gathered that from your "bridged" conclusion. Try the "dont run with scissors" forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by countryintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">connecting a high to low level converter on speaker outputs does the exact same thing. Some of the best car audio manufacturers have made 2 ohm speakers to specifically optimize power output from head unit amplifiers like sounstream spl coax speakers. A 2 ohm load on a head unit would never cause a malfunction or be questioned by a warranty service dept as cause of problems. Many factory component speakers cosist of 4 ohm mids with 4 ohm tweets which puts a 2 ohm load on the factory head unit. Amazing how a fact radio can withstand such "ghetto"ness. Someone obviously Has no MECP skills, But i gathered that from your "bridged" conclusion. Try the "dont run with scissors" forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahaha. No offense but B18 knows his stuff Not to mention hes right anyways, go and put 4 speakers off 2 terminals and see how long it will last. you just told us yourself .."Many factory component speakers cosist of 4 ohm mids with 4 ohm tweets which puts a 2 ohm load on the factory head unit" which means when you connect 4, youre not going to be seeing a 2 ohm load anymore. So, you can go to the "don't turn with scissors" forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ahaha. No offense but B18 knows his stuff Not to mention hes right anyways, go and put 4 speakers off 2 terminals and see how long it will last. you just told us yourself .."Many factory component speakers cosist of 4 ohm mids with 4 ohm tweets which puts a 2 ohm load on the factory head unit" which means when you connect 4, youre not going to be seeing a 2 ohm load anymore. So, you can go to the "don't turn with scissors" forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>Wow! you really dont know anything about what you are talking abot do you?I guess im the only mecp certified installer on here so here is a free a lesson. Two 4 ohm drivers connected in parallel makes 2ohms. Look it up. Its a really basic principle. Each speaker output is connected to (2) 4 ohm drivers resulting in a 2 ohm load. You have no idea what you are talking about. Thats ok, it kept me paid rewiring simple speaker errors like what i can imagine you two together can 2+2=5 do. He really knows his "stuff" since he doesnt even know what a basic term like "bridging" means. You picked a winner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by countryintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow! you really dont know anything about what you are talking abot do you?I guess im the only mecp certified installer on here so here is a free a lesson. Two 4 ohm drivers connected in parallel makes 2ohms. Look it up. Its a really basic principle. Each speaker output is connected to (2) 4 ohm drivers resulting in a 2 ohm load. You have no idea what you are talking about. Thats ok, it kept me paid rewiring simple speaker errors like what i can imagine you two together can 2+2=5 do. He really knows his "stuff" since he doesnt even know what a basic term like "bridging" means. You picked a winner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First your not the only mecp installer on here. Second none of the radios that you said reccommend wiring down to a two ohm load. A saying a cheap radio is going to do it is not the way to go. Let me gues your the installer that wires a bose 1 ohm speaker set to a aftermarket headunit and blows the thing up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First your not the only mecp installer on here. Second none of the radios that you said reccommend wiring down to a two ohm load. A saying a cheap radio is going to do it is not the way to go. Let me gues your the installer that wires a bose 1 ohm speaker set to a aftermarket headunit and blows the thing up </TD></TR></TABLE> First of all, i dont wire bose, so i can tell you arent mecp certified. Bose gets completely wiped out on any install at my shop. Second, if your retarded *** would look at my first suggestion, it was to get a deck with subwoofer outputs. This was a thread to help a guy high level connect his amp to his factory deck, and have some contol over the bass on his subs and mids/highs. i was trying to help, what is your reason for trying to act smart? So i guess i apologize to R4NDOM, these guys say you are gonna burn something up splicing your amps high level inputs with your rear speakers. Or i guess it prolly already exploded and burned your car down for being at 2 ohms. Funny how you and i know its working fine. i was just trying to help you eliminate the bass on your little speaks. Thanks all you dumb ***** for losing site of the fact that this guy needed help connecting subs with what he has right now, and i gave him a reasonable solution for sub control, and the people who just want to talk to hear themselves speak have to chime in without reading anything about what they are getting into. Jesus Christ you dumb kids cant read either. Why would a deck recommend a 2 ohm load jack hole? Its the fact that decks can run each channel from 2-6 ohms. Ill say one thing...the tards stuck together on this one. H-T is for helping fellow honda enthusiasts. Why be gay and try to be cool when your not. i was just trying to help and your just here because you have nothing else to do. Keep bumping each other to the top of the board. Some of us do it, and you guys wish you could.......You definitely took the 1st prize so far for the Helen Keler award. And sweet pre fab amp racks and sub enclosure pics. Dynamat is really worth getting lots of pictures too. Dork. If your not part of the solution, then you are part of the problem.


Modified by countryintegra at 1:22 AM 12/22/2006


Modified by countryintegra at 1:26 AM 12/22/2006


Modified by countryintegra at 2:00 AM 12/22/2006


Modified by countryintegra at 2:04 AM 12/22/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Modified by countryintegra at 1:22 AM 12/22/2006


Modified by countryintegra at 1:26 AM 12/22/2006


Modified by countryintegra at 2:00 AM 12/22/2006

Modified by countryintegra at 2:04 AM 12/22/2006

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LOL... Couldn't quite get your verbal diharreah the way you wanted it?

Since it obviously sucks on this site, try this link... It'll help you get away from the "tards" around here...

https://honda-tech.com/zerouser?cmd=logout

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kill y-tee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess im the only mecp certified installer on here so here is a free a lesson. </TD></TR></TABLE>BRAHAHAHAHAH, Can you say master, grasshopper?
And if your what MECP is certifying now, they can have mine back. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And if your what MECP is certifying now, they can have mine back. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL!!!!

Was waiting for you to chime in on this...

 

Yea, was I as big a jerk when I was a no0b? 94

 

Definitely not.