Manual Tranny Lube
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Manual Tranny Lube
what would be the best lube to use in my tranny? its a 91 accord dx.
i had 85w 90 gear oil it it and it grinded shifting into 2nd when it was cold and now im using 10w 30 engine oil and it grinds shifting into 3rd gear every time.
i had 85w 90 gear oil it it and it grinded shifting into 2nd when it was cold and now im using 10w 30 engine oil and it grinds shifting into 3rd gear every time.
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From: SoCal
Re: Manual Tranny Lube (shmack2004)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shmack2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would be the best lube to use in my tranny? its a 91 accord dx.
i had 85w 90 gear oil it it and it grinded shifting into 2nd when it was cold and now im using 10w 30 engine oil and it grinds shifting into 3rd gear every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could really mess up the syncro(i think they are brass) if you put in gear/diff. oil in your tranny.
notice 75-90 mobil1 diff oil will kill a honda tranny in a week, you probably fwaked all the syncro by doing so.
well, before you trash the trans, try using GM syncromesh FM, if that doesn't helps than nothing will.
i had 85w 90 gear oil it it and it grinded shifting into 2nd when it was cold and now im using 10w 30 engine oil and it grinds shifting into 3rd gear every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could really mess up the syncro(i think they are brass) if you put in gear/diff. oil in your tranny.
notice 75-90 mobil1 diff oil will kill a honda tranny in a week, you probably fwaked all the syncro by doing so.
well, before you trash the trans, try using GM syncromesh FM, if that doesn't helps than nothing will.
Joined: Aug 2006
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a chevy dealership might be a good start 
you can probably also get it at any autoparts store.
also, 10w30 cant be good for your tranny. it doesnt come close to the kind of oil you normally use. i've heard from many people that honda oem gear oil is the best to use...as with most oem stuff for each respective brand. at least they made a billion accords for your year/engine. if...and this is worst case senario...if the tranny is trashed, a new one should be easy to find and get. however, if you have to get a new(used) one, drain the fluid and use OEM honda first at the begining to ensure no problems.
you can probably also get it at any autoparts store.
also, 10w30 cant be good for your tranny. it doesnt come close to the kind of oil you normally use. i've heard from many people that honda oem gear oil is the best to use...as with most oem stuff for each respective brand. at least they made a billion accords for your year/engine. if...and this is worst case senario...if the tranny is trashed, a new one should be easy to find and get. however, if you have to get a new(used) one, drain the fluid and use OEM honda first at the begining to ensure no problems.
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Re: (Megaseth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megaseth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... also, 10w30 cant be good for your tranny. it doesnt come close to the kind of oil you normally use...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda MTL didn't exist yet in '91, so 10w-30 engine oil is exactly what the owner's manual calls for.
When Honda began selling MTL they made it compatible with their older trannys. So Honda MTL is pretty much the same viscosity at 10w-30 engine oil.
Honda MTL didn't exist yet in '91, so 10w-30 engine oil is exactly what the owner's manual calls for.
When Honda began selling MTL they made it compatible with their older trannys. So Honda MTL is pretty much the same viscosity at 10w-30 engine oil.
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Re: (Megaseth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megaseth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that seems so light for a gear oil, but hey, if its what they use i guess it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>'Weight' numbers for gear oil are on a whole different scale vs. 'weight' numbers for engine oil. 75w-90 gear oil is actually about the same viscosity as 10w-30 engine oil.
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Re: (JimBlake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'Weight' numbers for gear oil are on a whole different scale vs. 'weight' numbers for engine oil. 75w-90 gear oil is actually about the same viscosity as 10w-30 engine oil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
then why was that **** so think and the 10w 30 was thin as **** compared to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
then why was that **** so think and the 10w 30 was thin as **** compared to it.
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From: Fayettenam, Ar, US
Re: (JimBlake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'Weight' numbers for gear oil are on a whole different scale vs. 'weight' numbers for engine oil. 75w-90 gear oil is actually about the same viscosity as 10w-30 engine oil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (hondadude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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Well, OK I was a little off. 75w-90 gear oil has a wide enough range that it can fall within 10w-40 or 10w-50 engine oil. Still, you can see that engine oil & gear oil have completely different scales.
That's just viscosity. I didn't say they were the same thing as far as chemistry.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, OK I was a little off. 75w-90 gear oil has a wide enough range that it can fall within 10w-40 or 10w-50 engine oil. Still, you can see that engine oil & gear oil have completely different scales.
That's just viscosity. I didn't say they were the same thing as far as chemistry.
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From: SoCal
Re: (shmack2004)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shmack2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i drained it and put in some Lucas Transmission Fix and some 15w 40 motor oil...it grinds less but still grinds</TD></TR></TABLE>
then you got yourself a messed up tranny then, you can't just expect it to be cure but using magic juice. this could be why you mess up the tranny the first, but putting stuff inside that you don't even know what it could do to it.
then you got yourself a messed up tranny then, you can't just expect it to be cure but using magic juice. this could be why you mess up the tranny the first, but putting stuff inside that you don't even know what it could do to it.
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From: king of prussia, pa, montgemery
Re: (shmack2004)
Seems to me shmack2004 was experimenting with gear oil, i mean not once did he ever type in his post that he would go to honda and get the oem tranny fluid.
Anyway ya live ya learn.
Anyway ya live ya learn.
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From: Springfield, IL, USA
Re: (JimBlake)
How hard is it to change the fluid in manual transmissions?
I have a '99 LX 5-speed with about 82,000 miles. I bought it in Oct. '98 so it's just over 8 years old.
Per the maintenance schedule for normal conditions, it says "Replace transmission fluid" at 90,000 miles or 72 months (6 years), but I wasn't sure if that was for automatic transmissions or for both automatic and manual transmissions. Anyway, after reading this thread I know I need to go ahead and either do it or pay the dealer $60 to do it (the price they quoted me).
So...
a. how hard is it to do,
b. how much fluid do I need to pick up from the dealer,
c. how much will this fluid cost at the dealer,
d. what exactly do I ask the dealer for? That is, would I just say "give me (x) quarts of manual transmission fluid" and let them figure out what grade?, and
e. or is it too much of a hassle and I should just let the dealer change it out?
For what it's worth, I do most of the basic maintenance on my car by myself including oil changes and spark plug changes. OK, I know that a trained monkey can do oil changes and spark plug changes on this car, but the point is that I do get my hands dirty on this car.
I have a '99 LX 5-speed with about 82,000 miles. I bought it in Oct. '98 so it's just over 8 years old.
Per the maintenance schedule for normal conditions, it says "Replace transmission fluid" at 90,000 miles or 72 months (6 years), but I wasn't sure if that was for automatic transmissions or for both automatic and manual transmissions. Anyway, after reading this thread I know I need to go ahead and either do it or pay the dealer $60 to do it (the price they quoted me).
So...
a. how hard is it to do,
b. how much fluid do I need to pick up from the dealer,
c. how much will this fluid cost at the dealer,
d. what exactly do I ask the dealer for? That is, would I just say "give me (x) quarts of manual transmission fluid" and let them figure out what grade?, and
e. or is it too much of a hassle and I should just let the dealer change it out?
For what it's worth, I do most of the basic maintenance on my car by myself including oil changes and spark plug changes. OK, I know that a trained monkey can do oil changes and spark plug changes on this car, but the point is that I do get my hands dirty on this car.
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From: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
Re: (Heat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How hard is it to change the fluid in manual transmissions?
I have a '99 LX 5-speed with about 82,000 miles. I bought it in Oct. '98 so it's just over 8 years old.
Per the maintenance schedule for normal conditions, it says "Replace transmission fluid" at 90,000 miles or 72 months (6 years), but I wasn't sure if that was for automatic transmissions or for both automatic and manual transmissions. Anyway, after reading this thread I know I need to go ahead and either do it or pay the dealer $60 to do it (the price they quoted me).
So...
a. how hard is it to do,
b. how much fluid do I need to pick up from the dealer,
c. how much will this fluid cost at the dealer,
d. what exactly do I ask the dealer for? That is, would I just say "give me (x) quarts of manual transmission fluid" and let them figure out what grade?, and
e. or is it too much of a hassle and I should just let the dealer change it out?
For what it's worth, I do most of the basic maintenance on my car by myself including oil changes and spark plug changes. OK, I know that a trained monkey can do oil changes and spark plug changes on this car, but the point is that I do get my hands dirty on this car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it is anything like the older trannys, then the drain bolt will be at the bottom of the tranny casing, and the fill bolt will be above that. Look in your owners manual for the transmission fill specs, but for my '93 it is 2 quarts, or fill until it starts coming out of the hole. The level should be full enough that when you take the fill plug out and put your finger in that the fluid should just barely be below the hole.
Go to the dealer and get 3 quarts of MTF, there is only one viscosity. However, there is a new formulation of it out there. It behaves more like the GM Syncromesh fluid. It looks like this:
The older stuff is in the same bottle, except with a red cap, and dark green label. The dealer may try to get you this, but tell them you want the new stuff. Don't get me wrong, the old stuff was good, but the new stuff is much better.
I have a '99 LX 5-speed with about 82,000 miles. I bought it in Oct. '98 so it's just over 8 years old.
Per the maintenance schedule for normal conditions, it says "Replace transmission fluid" at 90,000 miles or 72 months (6 years), but I wasn't sure if that was for automatic transmissions or for both automatic and manual transmissions. Anyway, after reading this thread I know I need to go ahead and either do it or pay the dealer $60 to do it (the price they quoted me).
So...
a. how hard is it to do,
b. how much fluid do I need to pick up from the dealer,
c. how much will this fluid cost at the dealer,
d. what exactly do I ask the dealer for? That is, would I just say "give me (x) quarts of manual transmission fluid" and let them figure out what grade?, and
e. or is it too much of a hassle and I should just let the dealer change it out?
For what it's worth, I do most of the basic maintenance on my car by myself including oil changes and spark plug changes. OK, I know that a trained monkey can do oil changes and spark plug changes on this car, but the point is that I do get my hands dirty on this car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it is anything like the older trannys, then the drain bolt will be at the bottom of the tranny casing, and the fill bolt will be above that. Look in your owners manual for the transmission fill specs, but for my '93 it is 2 quarts, or fill until it starts coming out of the hole. The level should be full enough that when you take the fill plug out and put your finger in that the fluid should just barely be below the hole.
Go to the dealer and get 3 quarts of MTF, there is only one viscosity. However, there is a new formulation of it out there. It behaves more like the GM Syncromesh fluid. It looks like this:
The older stuff is in the same bottle, except with a red cap, and dark green label. The dealer may try to get you this, but tell them you want the new stuff. Don't get me wrong, the old stuff was good, but the new stuff is much better.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, IL, USA
Re: (The G-Man)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G-Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...
Go to the dealer and get 3 quarts of MTF, there is only one viscosity. However, there is a new formulation of it out there. It behaves more like the GM Syncromesh fluid. It looks like this:...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the information. I just checked the owner's manual and Haynes manual, the owner's manual is saying that the capacity for my car is 2.1, but you actually add 2.0 quarts. I'll pick up three and hopefully don't need the third one.
Had a question though. There are two bolts. Open the lower one to drain out the old fluid, put the bolt back in. Open the upper one, add the fluid through a funnel, and when full the fluid will start to drip out of the upper hole. OK, that's easy enough, but the owner's manual says to do this on a flat surface. Can this really be done while on a flat surface, or does it need to be on jackstands? And if it does need to be in the air, I'm assuming that both front and back need to be elevated so that the car is "flat"?
One more thing - do the two bolts need crush washers like is used on the oil pan plug?
...
Go to the dealer and get 3 quarts of MTF, there is only one viscosity. However, there is a new formulation of it out there. It behaves more like the GM Syncromesh fluid. It looks like this:...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the information. I just checked the owner's manual and Haynes manual, the owner's manual is saying that the capacity for my car is 2.1, but you actually add 2.0 quarts. I'll pick up three and hopefully don't need the third one.
Had a question though. There are two bolts. Open the lower one to drain out the old fluid, put the bolt back in. Open the upper one, add the fluid through a funnel, and when full the fluid will start to drip out of the upper hole. OK, that's easy enough, but the owner's manual says to do this on a flat surface. Can this really be done while on a flat surface, or does it need to be on jackstands? And if it does need to be in the air, I'm assuming that both front and back need to be elevated so that the car is "flat"?
One more thing - do the two bolts need crush washers like is used on the oil pan plug?