I have a turbo 96 civic running check valves.I guess the car saw boost so it went into limp mode.usually if i turn off the car and turn it on it will be gone.this time it stayed the whole day.it will idle very bad and then die!my vac stays at 10.i disconnected the battery and the CEL went off but the problem still stays!im running stock ecu and injectors.(pending new fuel management)Thanks


Modified by HeedLessInc at 4:48 PM 12/25/2006

 

When you say vac stays at 10 I assume this info is via some electronic device not a mechanical vacuum gauge?

First, what code is the ecu throwing? That's the simple cut and dry way to "get out of limp mode"...fix the problem. Without getting the code, finding the problem will take more investigation than necessary.

With an OBD2 car there are alot of reasons you could be getting a constant cel. Since you brought up the check valves though, I am gonna go with a map sensor issue, as you said vacuum is stuck at 10. If the electronic device you got that from is seeing a constant voltage then I will say the map diaphragm is damaged or the map sensor is getting a good manifold "signal".

You can verify the map output with a volt meter, you could swap out the map from another throttle body, or you could check the code and fix the problem directly. I have to admit though, stock Honda maps can usually withstand 11 lbs easily without rupture....so....the code is the ticket.

 

obd2 wiring?

what computer are you running, and what fuel management..?

limp mode only comes on when there is a very crutial problem, when there is just a minor code, it wont go into limp mode

 

im getting 10 vac from my autometer boost gauge.how do you check for the codes without using the reader?i heard u can put a paper clip or something in the jumper and it will blink?I dont have a CEL anymore since i disconnected the battery could it still have a code?Stock ecu and stock injectors still obd2.I also have a gutted cat but it never did anything like this in the past.

 

Yeah you can use the paper clip and every long blink of the light is equal to ten and short blips are 1
Here is the list borrowed from Bfreeman on H-T
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
70 Automatic Transmission Malfunction w/AT Controls
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

 

****** viagra! j/k

heres how ur read u codes... yeah get that **** tuned first before u start guessing whats wrong,

and wtf are u doing going into boost with stock fuel management?
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php

 

wow, just wow.

 

you probably blew once it saw some boost!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyberdx16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably blew once it saw some boost!</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, just wow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

 

could i do this even tho my CEL is not on anymore?I have 440cc and p28 but the injecotrs wont fit becuase it was for a rsx.so i figure dont boost and i will be fine.i guess i was near boost and this is what happened.i didnt see oil everywhere so im not sure its busted.is there another way to check a blown motor?Thanks for the help.

 

ummm, 10psi of vaccum and you're thinking of looking for something other than a vaccum leak?

I guess, good luck to ya since every honda I've seen is pulling at least 15psi of vaccum at idle. Mine is right around 19psi of vaccum at idle. I'm guessing you had a vaccum line fall off.

 

i tried putting the vacum line back to stock to see what happens but same problem.my vacs are for the boost gauge,bov,wg.

 

wastegate vacc comes b4 throttle body, other that than hook bov and boost gauge straight to IM. And if CEL went away it wont read anything. also, ii dont think its gonna help much with bigger injectors and nothing to adjust fuel maps with

 

I think i have a solution to your problem... dont ******* drive it untill its tuned!!

 

so checking for a code is no point with no CEL?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeedLessInc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so checking for a code is no point with no CEL?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, no CEL no code will show!

 

i wonder why will the problem still be there if no CEL?

 

Sounds like you could have wrecked the motor. lol.

And the ECU does indeed store codes sometimes even if the CEL isn't lit up.

 

like tchleung stated, the ecu will still store codes and not flash a cel... i bet if you went to autozone and hooked a scantool up youd pull a code or two

 

Stock ecu + stock injectors + boost = BOOM!


weak vacuum could be from popped headgasket.

 

is there another way to find out the headgasket is popped?could it make the car die when stopping?I just plugged in the obd2 reader but no codes!I shouldn't have taken out the battery to reset the ecu!I drove it for a bit but did not come back on.Car is still idleing bad and running super rich.it also dies when you come to a stop.Could it be timing or ??keep in mind that it still the stock ecu and injectors.suggestions?Thanks



double sided check valves,i know kind weird!





vids:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbOyh3DEH5s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9ZAxODZFac

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9ZAxODZFac

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5uW5Me5eo4

 

Those checkvalves, are they surely hooked up correctly, as I'm looking at it, looks like they would have no use being plugged like that.

 

its not plugged,it worked at one point.usually when my car sees boost,it bogs and when i restart it,it normal again but now it just runs like ****!

 

Why are you hitting boost on stock ECU and stock injectors... Do you have any kind of fuel management?!? Looking at those checkvalves, means you ateast have an FMU right??? Not saying an FMU is okay cause it's totally not.

 

Why God Why !!!!!!!!!!!!!