My fuel setups is:

aeromotive a1000 out of tank
custom stainless lines
STR fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR
prelude 345's

Basically what is happening is the fuel pump primes, fuel pressure rises and holds steady on thhe b&m gauge on my rail

i start the car, it idles for for about 5sec's, then the fuel pressure face dives to 0, the motor dies, then you hear the pump turn off

the pump always reprimes if i shut the key off and back on, and pressure rises again

im thinking possible culprits to be FPR, The pump itself(though it sounds healthy), or electrical/relay problem

any ideas of where to start or how to test these things individually?

 

what ecu?

either way get rid of the B&M gauge, especially if its mounted on the rail. it will vibrate and crack. get a marshall from ebay and mount it on the fuel filter.

 

it did this on both a gsr ecu and an aem ems

 

 

Maybe get a new "showroom" valve cover to radiator support ground?

 

In all seriousness do you have the cap on the end of the fuel rail? The cap on the intake side? Can you take a pic of how its setup?

 

whats wrong with the stock pump? why not a walbro intank? are you running a resistor box? why is that setup so complicated?? with only prelude injectors, you could have everything else stock and be fine.

<< wonders why do people insist on making things so complicated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats wrong with the stock pump? why not a walbro intank? are you running a resistor box? why is that setup so complicated?? with only prelude injectors, you could have everything else stock and be fine.

&lt;&lt; wonders why do people insist on making things so complicated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey man, i know the setup is overkill, but before you jump to conclusions, previous setup was 500+hp turbo setup....have you ever seen an out of tank sump setup? Do you know how much of a pita it would be to go back to stock? brand new fuel tank, re-run the stock lines, etc. its not like i can just swap in a walbro or stock and have it all be hunkey dorey.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In all seriousness do you have the cap on the end of the fuel rail? The cap on the intake side? Can you take a pic of how its setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont really have a good pic, i can take one, but if your asking if theres any leaks there definately isnt.

Something definately broke because the car ran fine until one day it didnt

 

maybe thats why you had so many headaches to begin with. I have similar power levels you had on the turbo setup on pump gas, with a walbro intank, aem rail, remote mounted aeromotive, stock lines. no headaches for me other than my distributor and I beat the **** out of my car.

 

I'm talking about the cap that screws onto the end of the stock fuel rail, do you have it? It should be right where number 18 points to.

 

jim you are referring to the dampener and it is not needed.

honestly I think the only reason you are seeing the fuel pressure drop to 0 is because the car is in the process of shutting off. I think the problem is somewhere else. but check all grounds, especially any that are part of the external pump setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm talking about the cap that screws onto the end of the stock fuel rail, do you have it? It should be right where number 18 points to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats where my fpr mounts on the str rail, best pic i have for reference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .m a c a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something definately broke because the car ran fine until one day it didnt</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats awesome, i did chuckle at that


if its not working of course something has broken

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jim you are referring to the dampener and it is not needed.

honestly I think the only reason you are seeing the fuel pressure drop to 0 is because the car is in the process of shutting off. I think the problem is somewhere else. </TD></TR></TABLE>

main relay perhaps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tartje &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


thats awesome, i did chuckle at that


if its not working of course something has broken </TD></TR></TABLE>


i chuckled too but i couldnt think of a better way to word it. Basically i was trying to say that at one point it was working as opposed to a new build which has never run right...if that makes any sense

 

I think if the main relay is shot, the car wont even start. Dont quote me on that though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think if the main relay is shot, the car wont even start. Dont quote me on that though.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the car does start but only runs for about 5secs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .m a c a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i chuckled too but i couldnt think of a better way to word it. Basically i was trying to say that at one point it was working as opposed to a new build which has never run right...if that makes any sense</TD></TR></TABLE>


i do understand dude, but for some reason the child-like logic of the way it was said really tickled me


i'm certainly no expert at auto-electrics, but it sounds like the same sort of thing that would happen if you just turn the ignition off?

 

which would tell me its not the main relay. what about the cap/rotor/plugs?? is that stuff new or from the old setup? if its from the old setup, its probably beat.

 

Its not the main relay.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what ecu?

either way get rid of the B&M gauge, especially if its mounted on the rail. it will vibrate and crack. get a marshall from ebay and mount it on the fuel filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would take that guage off too and put that dampener back on and see if that helps. I had a friend that had the same probs running a str rail and didnt have the dampener on, once we put it back on the car ran fine. Although Ryan has me doubting this is your prob. But again, its a 2 minute fix.

 

its not a 2 minute fix on this thing.. it has AN fittings on both sides of the fuel rail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .m a c a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


the car does start but only runs for about 5secs </TD></TR></TABLE>

i know its not alot of time, but the pump isnt getting hot is it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DontBlink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know its not alot of time, pump the pump isnt getting hot is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

have to check on that

 

i know it was asked but i didnt see it answered....you do have a resistor box correct?

 

^yes