'94 RPM issue fixed. how?
So if you guys read any of my previous posts you will see me mention how I'd cruise at 70mph and run around 3000rpm, and I knew it wasn't normal because sometimes it would jump down to 2,750 and it would seem to give me a little more power then go back a few mins later.
Well recently I changed my thermostat and also cleaned my throttle body.
What is odd is that problem went away. I now ride a constant 2,750 RPM at 70mph.
First off. What is the lower RPM considered? Overdrive?
Also, how could those fixes cause my RPMs to go back to the way they should?
I know with the thermostat, it was remaining open all the time and was in bad shape when I took it out. Could it somehow lead to an improper warm up?
What relies on warm up to function? I know the EGR system does.
For the throttle body, I have no idea how that could help. It wasn't even that dirty.
Well recently I changed my thermostat and also cleaned my throttle body.
What is odd is that problem went away. I now ride a constant 2,750 RPM at 70mph.
First off. What is the lower RPM considered? Overdrive?
Also, how could those fixes cause my RPMs to go back to the way they should?
I know with the thermostat, it was remaining open all the time and was in bad shape when I took it out. Could it somehow lead to an improper warm up?
What relies on warm up to function? I know the EGR system does.
For the throttle body, I have no idea how that could help. It wasn't even that dirty.
lol, what timing, caught this in another thread.
'Are your highway RPMS higher than normal? at 70mph a 5th gen LX accord will be at 2800 indicated on the tach. (same generation of car that you have) for the I4. V6 should be under 2500. IF they are it means your car is not allowing the torque coverter to lock up and again this is caused by car not being fully warmed up "
I guess this could be the situation?
It would be warmed up and it will still act funny, but maybe somehow it wouldn't warm up properly?
'Are your highway RPMS higher than normal? at 70mph a 5th gen LX accord will be at 2800 indicated on the tach. (same generation of car that you have) for the I4. V6 should be under 2500. IF they are it means your car is not allowing the torque coverter to lock up and again this is caused by car not being fully warmed up "
I guess this could be the situation?
It would be warmed up and it will still act funny, but maybe somehow it wouldn't warm up properly?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Homesickelian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would be warmed up and it will still act funny, but maybe somehow it wouldn't warm up properly?</TD></TR></TABLE>It may have felt warm to you, but it wasn't warm enough according to the measurement from the ECT sensor.
your ecu will not allow tq converter lockup until the car reaches operating temp. since the car never reached operating temp it would not lock up. on the times that it locked up for a short time and then unlocked , your car was at operating temp and then the temp fell below the setpoint and tq converter unlocked
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Homesickelian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it said it on the meter on the dash but yeah somehow a sensor elsewhere wasn't recieving enough heat maybe</TD></TR></TABLE>The ECU & the dashboard gauge have separate sensors for measuring coolant temperature. Maybe your ECT sensor is getting flaky?
Yeah I don't think it's the ECT actually being dysfunctional. I don't have any other problems. And now it isn't a problem since the thermostat change, it reliably locks up on the highway. Yeuemmaimai seems to make sense. The thermostat was leaking pretty bad.
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Zboost
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Jun 29, 2003 03:26 PM




