The rev problem,
ok basically when i first started the car the revs were fine at a bout 1 - 1.5k - this has all changed now!

Was driving along testing that the car actually drove for about half a mile. Suddenly the speedo stopped working and the revs now stick at about 3-4k when idle. when in gear the revs drop obviously but still pulls without throttle like the engine would be if its natural idle was 4k. ive been reading things about a couple of sensors but i have no idea what or where they are!


The hose problem (this was only noticed to be amiss after my little test drive!)

basically ive got to try and describe this without pictures a my digital camera is broke!

ive allmost completed a d16z6 engine change (to another d16z6) but im stuck on a few pipes!

the first one is the pipe that comes off the rocker cover, top left side
the second one is from the air filter hose,
and the third one is from the charcoal box (the little black box that is underneath the fuel filter (need to know where both pipes go!

thanks and sorry for the lack of pictures!
scott

 

take pictures dude

 

the hose from the charcoal box goes back into the manifold, as for the speedo check ur alternator/speed sensor fuse as u may have a short sumwhere and it was blown

 

thanks - where about is that fuse?

 

maybe in the fuse box either the dash 1 or under the hood.... the hose from the valve cover should go to the air intake pipe

 

ok thanks, anyone got any ideas on why the revs are sticking?

 

clean ur iac on the back of the manifold and make sure ur throtle cable is the right length, the fuse is under the dash, check for exposed wires causing a short

 

#1...you've got a vacuum leak. Stick your hand over the throttle body (it'll be scary but you'll be fine...cd cases work good ). The car will still run I am sure since your idle is that profoundly high, start hunting down your vacuum leaks.

Once the engine is WARM stick your finger over the hole in the LOWER left (if your facing it) of the TB, if it's sucking hard after the coolant is totally warm, your thermo valve is opened and that's your vacuum leak.

The upper hole on the left is the bypass for the idle air control. You can gauge with your finger how much that is pulling as well.

The reason covering the entire throttle body works is it eliminates the thermo valve and the idle air as the problem...or the entire problem to be politically correct. You cover it...if the car dies then focus on the throttle body, IAC, and thermo valve (underneath the TB in that housing that has coolant lines running to it). If it still runs, then it's very clear you have air getting into the manifold from other areas.

You should generally troubleshoot before removing sensors and "cleaning" them. Removing sensors can just give you more vacuum leaks by not replacing the gasket or O rings on that sensor. Did you hear the motor run before you bought it...if so did it idle high like that before?

Your speedo operates off the VSS sensor which is right next to the rear mount on the tranny...it's sticking up...3 pins.

Checking the throttle cable tension is good advice as well from above...definitely a possibility holding the throttle plate opened.

I'd investigate the VSS first, since you said your idle changed upon your speedo not working. Basically work backwards in order to get your 1k-1.5k idle back, then figure out why that idle was too high with the methods I've stated above.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1...you've got a vacuum leak. Stick your hand over the throttle body (it'll be scary but you'll be fine...cd cases work good ). The car will still run I am sure since your idle is that profoundly high, start hunting down your vacuum leaks.

Once the engine is WARM stick your finger over the hole in the LOWER left (if your facing it) of the TB, if it's sucking hard after the coolant is totally warm, your thermo valve is opened and that's your vacuum leak.

The upper hole on the left is the bypass for the idle air control. You can gauge with your finger how much that is pulling as well.

The reason covering the entire throttle body works is it eliminates the thermo valve and the idle air as the problem...or the entire problem to be politically correct. You cover it...if the car dies then focus on the throttle body, IAC, and thermo valve (underneath the TB in that housing that has coolant lines running to it). If it still runs, then it's very clear you have air getting into the manifold from other areas.

You should generally troubleshoot before removing sensors and "cleaning" them. Removing sensors can just give you more vacuum leaks by not replacing the gasket or O rings on that sensor. Did you hear the motor run before you bought it...if so did it idle high like that before?

Your speedo operates off the VSS sensor which is right next to the rear mount on the tranny...it's sticking up...3 pins.

Checking the throttle cable tension is good advice as well from above...definitely a possibility holding the throttle plate opened.

I'd investigate the VSS first, since you said your idle changed upon your speedo not working. Basically work backwards in order to get your 1k-1.5k idle back, then figure out why that idle was too high with the methods I've stated above.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good advice , u can also spray starter fluid around ur maniolf to check for leaks, if the idle changes where u sprayed, theres ur leak