Wondering if anyone has any information on one... Just recently purchased one, and just curious on what to expect. Anyone have any experience with this particular kit? it's going on a stock y8. Whats a good size shot that i could safely run and make good power??? Any information would be useful...

 

I know that someone has to have prior knowledge on this particular kit!!!!

 

good kit. except for the fact its dry.

how often do you plan a shotting?

 

im not sure... after i realize what n20 costs, probably a few times a week at most.

and possibly a night of racing a week...

what is reccommened?

 

with a stock Y8 shoot no more then a 50 shot. if it was my Y8, id probly be shooting a 75, but i blow motors all the time.

think of it this way.

Green=25 shot
yellow=50 shot
red=75 shot

oh yeah your also a dry shot. ehhh, if you want your **** to last shot a 25 shot.

 

the amount of nitrous you can spray depends on what you do, i mean if you drop the timing back, get colder plugs and run premium fuel ONLY/always, then a 75shot wouldnt hurt it.

your oil pump will likely fail before you do any damage from spraying the gas.

 

how many degrees should i take out?? i was planning on doing that, 2 step colder plugs... i didnt think about the preimum fuel. Could i get away with putting a gallon of race gas (112 octane) in with my other gas???

 

"your oil pump will likely fail before you do any damage from spraying the gas."


hahaha

i mean it IS a y8...

 

rule of thumb is 2 degrees of timing per 50shot, so 2 degrees for a 50 shot and 3 degrees for a 75 shot.

i wouldnt run a race gas/ regular unleaded mix. i mean it might be ok, but i wouldnt trust it.

 

ok... i understand about the timing part of it.


about the race gas, i made a few calls and 95% of the places around here sell LEADED race gas... that would be a problem for me.

If i could find UNleaded race gas would it be ok???

 

like i said, i dont know much about that part, just running straight premium fuel would be a better idea.

i mean, race fuel is usually $7/gallon here anyways, so why would you want to use it???

 

If you don't want to blow your motor follow the directions that came with the kit , and not a bunch of retard HT newbs

 

doesnt race gas only come in a leaded form?

 

Forget the race gas....jesus people, it's nitrous not nuclear power.. On your D series engine, if you want it to last, and be reliable, keep it at a 50hp level period. You'll need to reduce your ignition timing by 2 degrees. If you get colder plugs (I doub't you'll need to) only go 1 step colder. Also try to use supreme fuel.

Just remember this "KISS" ...keep it simple stupid.....and your car will be fine.

 

i agree with the idea of a 50 shot... i was going to retard the timing slightly and get colder plugs.

if i retarded the timing 4* could i safely run a 75 shot ONLY for a few track passes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtmartin96civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with the idea of a 50 shot... i was going to retard the timing slightly and get colder plugs.

if i retarded the timing 4* could i safely run a 75 shot ONLY for a few track passes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can probably get away with it, but its not very safe on the motor. It pretty much comes down to your own descretion. If you're cool with screwing up the motor and dont mind replacing things...go for it. Some people really dont mind blowing D motors.

If you're all about reliability...i'd keep it safe with a random 50 shot tops.

Its all up to you basically, brotha.

 

well, seeing as you are so bent on being safe i would say a 35 dry shot is what you need, most say 25% of your static hp before its dangerous.

 

If you’re going to spray a 35 shot don't bother, it's a waist of time. A 50 shot is already weak. Retarding the timing is not necessary for a 50 shot, all you need is premium fuel and B16 spark plugs (BKR6E-11), there 1 step colder and non-projected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you’re going to spray a 35 shot don't bother, it's a waist of time. A 50 shot is already weak. Retarding the timing is not necessary for a 50 shot, all you need is premium fuel and B16 spark plugs (BKR6E-11), there 1 step colder and non-projected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, go to take into account it's a dry kit.

Dry @ 35 isn't much...not worth investing the money on a kit if you're gonna spray that low IMO.

I say spray 50 & retard ur timing 2 deg with colder plugs and call it a day.

If you don't spray like a retard it shouldn't be a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtmartin96civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with the idea of a 50 shot... i was going to retard the timing slightly and get colder plugs.

if i retarded the timing 4* could i safely run a 75 shot ONLY for a few track passes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you run a 75 shot and already have colder plugs, I wouldn't reduce the timing anymore than the 2 degrees for the 50 shot. D series rods become marginal above 200hp level and if your engine's got some miles on it, you run the risk of taking out a bearing or rod at that level, I've seen it happen before on D's spraying a 75 shot over time. It can be done, just be aware that you're pushing the limits of reliability every time you run that shot level at the track. The more times you do it, the greater the chance something will happen.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, seeing as you are so bent on being safe i would say a 35 dry shot is what you need, most say 25% of your static hp before its dangerous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's actually 40% not 25%.

 

From all the feedback, i've decided. I'll run the 50 and leave it alone (colder plugs and timing retard of course), for the sake of reliability. Thanks for all the feedback... like the avatar says... im a noob, and still very much learning about everything.

Hell, if i blow it up, i'll take it apart and learn from that as well!

D-Series are a dime a dozen... lol

 

I'd say sell it and buy the zex wet kit, they can be had for like 400 new. I run "75" shot on my y8. Very fun and quick. Will pull hard on an e36 m3. Make sure you get a bottle heater too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2CivMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say sell it and buy the zex wet kit, they can be had for like 400 new. I run "75" shot on my y8. Very fun and quick. Will pull hard on an e36 m3. Make sure you get a bottle heater too.</TD></TR></TABLE>


With a wet kit, it's a very good idea to run a bottle heater if you want the system to operate properly and make optimum power. The ZEX dry kit is designed to adjust fuel mixture if the bottle is low temp or pressure. In the original posters case, if he doesn't have or want to buy a bottle heater, a Zex dry kit would be the way to go.

 

hooked the kit up, and made a few pulls. Plugs looked good, and ran great! Thanks for all the info!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's actually 40% not 25%.</TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard anyone consider 40% more power with nitrous SAFE. 25% would be safe no doubt, much more and you would be finding the threshold. the OPs main objective was RELIABLE power, so a dry 50 should be giving him right at that 25%, maybe a little more, but not 40%.