I am pulling my head off, never done it before...

smart idea to drain coolant and oil first?

any other helpful hints would be cool. thanks.


b18c1...


Modified by god.loves.ugly at 6:47 PM 12/18/2006


Modified by god.loves.ugly at 7:11 PM 12/18/2006

 

get a service manual. It'll save your life . Nice to see someone listenin to Atmos.. word up

 

i just left the oil in my car, unplugged the hoses and let the coolant drain all over the garage floor then cleaned up the mess later. i have about 2000 miles on it since the headgasket and it's working perfectly fine. i changed the oil afterwards. this might not be the best advice, but it worked for me. just clean up the mess in the engine before putting everything back together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integ401 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a service manual. It'll save your life . Nice to see someone listenin to Atmos.. word up </TD></TR></TABLE>

well that would be nice but I don't really have the resources to do that I searched for diy's online but couldn't find anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zachlange &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just left the oil in my car, unplugged the hoses and let the coolant drain all over the garage floor then cleaned up the mess later. i have about 2000 miles on it since the headgasket and it's working perfectly fine. i changed the oil afterwards. this might not be the best advice, but it worked for me. just clean up the mess in the engine before putting everything back together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm well I'll put new oil and filter on anyway. maybe I'll just go drain it all.... i am doing it right now haha

 

get the torque specs for the head, intake, etc... so you have all that right, you should be able to get all of that off the internet. if you use the original headbolts, add a few pounds of torque to them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zachlange &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the torque specs for the head, intake, etc... so you have all that right, you should be able to get all of that off the internet. if you use the original headbolts, add a few pounds of torque to them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right now I'm more worried about the disassembly i have to get it to the machine shop asap.

 

Somebody give this poor guy a link to the helms manual. My suggestion (ie, smartass answer) is to unbolt stuff until it comes apart. See a bolt....take it off. This philosophy has worked quite well for me in the past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Somebody give this poor guy a link to the helms manual. My suggestion (ie, smartass answer) is to unbolt stuff until it comes apart. See a bolt....take it off. This philosophy has worked quite well for me in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha that's what I've been doing so far. I was mostly just wondering if I had to drain the coolant.

also can I just leave the cam gears on the cam when I pull them off?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by god.loves.ugly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha that's what I've been doing so far. I was mostly just wondering if I had to drain the coolant.

also can I just leave the cam gears on the cam when I pull them off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, drain the coolant unless you want a big mess....coolant in the cylinders, oil pan and all over your garage. You can leave the cam gears on the cams, but generally you have to remove them to get the rear timing belt cover off.....sometimes there is a slot in the top side that allows it to slide around the cams w/ the gears on....and/or the rear cover is missing in action.

 

Also relieve fuel pressure at the banjo bolt on the fuel filter.

Unbolt the head starting on the outside bolts working inward in a criss-cross fashion. And even better if you only loosen them a quarter turn at a time till torque is relieved.

You also can remove the two intake manifold bracket bolts from underneath the car with long extensions, then pull the manifold and head as one unit.

It sure wouldn't of killed you to buy a Haynes for $20, could cost you alot more for not following torque specs and sequences. I am sure there is a write-up somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also relieve fuel pressure at the banjo bolt on the fuel filter.

Unbolt the head starting on the outside bolts working inward in a criss-cross fashion. And even better if you only loosen them a quarter turn at a time till torque is relieved.

You also can remove the two intake manifold bracket bolts from underneath the car with long extensions, then pull the manifold and head as one unit.

It sure wouldn't of killed you to buy a Haynes for $20, could cost you alot more for not following torque specs and sequences. I am sure there is a write-up somewhere.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i was supposed to have a friend who knows all this stuff helping me but he worked late so I just got the easy stuff done now I'll let him help me with the hard stuff tomorrow. Thanks.

 

get that head off yet?

 

god.loves.ugly

check your messages

 

head is off.... I need to order valves tonight! dealer ship costs are insane of course what's the next best thing?

 

i bought a new/used head off of ebay. i guess that can be a hit or miss type thing though.

 

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/

just register on this site and get yourself a service manual you will use it countless times

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...y.jsp

online dealer with pretty good prices