pulling out motor
is there anything special i should know about before i get started? im going to be swapping out a block for a friend of mine. i have a lot of experience taking motors in and out of all the fwd hondas but ive never done an s2k. besides having to disconnect the drive shaft is there much difference? im thinking it should be pretty much the same concept.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-R Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take some pics and post your progress!</TD></TR></TABLE> i should be getting started in a week or two. depends when my friend wants to drop off the car. i wont have time to do a write up or anything but i will definatley try to take pics during the process.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankdatank »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is harder then a fwd swap. have fun. here is a good tip. the car has to be as high as possible and hopefully the driveshaft bolts come out nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i usually go through the bottom and the car always has to be as high as possible. is the s2k motor any taller than a B or K motor?
i usually go through the bottom and the car always has to be as high as possible. is the s2k motor any taller than a B or K motor?
Get the car up as far as possible, mark, and disconnect the steering shaft, but DONT let your steering wheel get turned while diconnected, disconnect from the u-joint under hood, unplug your steering rack connectors, and drop the subframe down 3 inches, then pull your headers, remove driveshaft, carefull not to strip the alan head bolts, if you do cut the head of the bolt off, and order new ones, the stud will screw out by hand after removing driveshaft. This is a common screw-up! unbolt and remove tranny, disconnect fuel lines and wiring harness from ecu, pull through firewall, you need a 14mm wobble socket to remove the hard to get starter bolts, use a long extension. Undo your mounts and leave your a/c compressor in the car, pull it off the motor, but dont discharge the lines! Drain your fluids and pull that bitch out. Good luck, and Dont forget about that steering wheel, youll regret it badly!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2jz-s2000owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the car up as far as possible, mark, and disconnect the steering shaft, but DONT let your steering wheel get turned while diconnected, disconnect from the u-joint under hood, unplug your steering rack connectors, and drop the subframe down 3 inches, then pull your headers, remove driveshaft, carefull not to strip the alan head bolts, if you do cut the head of the bolt off, and order new ones, the stud will screw out by hand after removing driveshaft. This is a common screw-up! unbolt and remove tranny, disconnect fuel lines and wiring harness from ecu, pull through firewall, you need a 14mm wobble socket to remove the hard to get starter bolts, use a long extension. Undo your mounts and leave your a/c compressor in the car, pull it off the motor, but dont discharge the lines! Drain your fluids and pull that bitch out. Good luck, and Dont forget about that steering wheel, youll regret it badly!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
arent you the guy from 50/50? anyways, isnt it possible to pull out the motor with the tranny still attached to the block? so i dont have to deal with the starter. and do i have to pull the harness through the firewall or can i just pull it off to the side?
arent you the guy from 50/50? anyways, isnt it possible to pull out the motor with the tranny still attached to the block? so i dont have to deal with the starter. and do i have to pull the harness through the firewall or can i just pull it off to the side?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonvo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do i have to pull the harness through the firewall or can i just pull it off to the side?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could but that would involve disconnecting every sensor, it would be easier to leave the harness intact and just pull the loom out through the firewall, assuming you do not need to remove the harness. but it is much easier to get to each sensor and label it while it is out of the car!
Good luck and once again PICS PLEASE
do i have to pull the harness through the firewall or can i just pull it off to the side?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could but that would involve disconnecting every sensor, it would be easier to leave the harness intact and just pull the loom out through the firewall, assuming you do not need to remove the harness. but it is much easier to get to each sensor and label it while it is out of the car!
Good luck and once again PICS PLEASE
oh ok that makes sense. im planning on pulling the head off first since i have to pull it off anyways and its hard to loosen the head bolts with the motor on the ground. it will probably be easier to get to the mounts and everything also. so about the tranny. is it a must to pull it off before the block?
I'm pulling out my tranny right now to do the clutch and it doesn't look like you need to pull the traany off if you're pulling the engine only. There however are a few plugs up top so make sure you unplug those first before lowering the tranny all the way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hdsupercrewf150 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pulling out my tranny right now to do the clutch and it doesn't look like you need to pull the traany off if you're pulling the engine only. There however are a few plugs up top so make sure you unplug those first before lowering the tranny all the way.</TD></TR></TABLE> cool thanks. did you have a hard time reaching the starter bolts?
Yes, im the guy from 50/50, listen, im a 13 year honda tech at the dealer, ive been working on s2000's since they were first built, you MUST pull the trans first , the motor will NOT come out with the trans on. And pulling the head first? Dont do that, trust me, your killing yourself man, the fastest way to get that motor out is exactly how i explained, pull the drivers kick panel out, and unplug the 2 connectors from the ecu, and pull them through the firewall. Im trying to give you good help- experience bro. Ive pulled over 30 or 40 of these motors. Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2jz-s2000owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, im the guy from 50/50, listen, im a 13 year honda tech at the dealer, ive been working on s2000's since they were first built, you MUST pull the trans first , the motor will NOT come out with the trans on. And pulling the head first? Dont do that, trust me, your killing yourself man, the fastest way to get that motor out is exactly how i explained, pull the drivers kick panel out, and unplug the 2 connectors from the ecu, and pull them through the firewall. Im trying to give you good help- experience bro. Ive pulled over 30 or 40 of these motors. Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>
im not doubting you, but what gets in the way of the tranny? just curious.
im not doubting you, but what gets in the way of the tranny? just curious.
Are you sure about that? I've pulled the motor and tranny together on more than one occasion.
Nothing gets in the way, you just gotta get creative with it.
Nothing gets in the way, you just gotta get creative with it.
You only need to unbolt the top starter bolt to take out the trans. I took out the top alt bolt, loosened the bottom so you can move the alt to the side. I also removed the ac compressor bolts. Then used a 12" extension with wobble and loosened the top starter bolt. I don't think you need to do this if you leave the tranny on. I just finished installing the clutch and I don't see why you can't leave the trany on as long as you disconnect everything. I'm not a honda tech but I am a diesel tech. No offense to anyone that's says you can't do it without taking the tranny off but it will be heavier to drop with tranny still attached.
The motor has to come forward too much for the trans to clear and be able to lift out, but it cant come out cause the motor can only come forward until it hits the support beam above the steering rack. The way i told you to do it is right out of the Honda Shop Repair Manual, its the safest way. Ya, there might be a few guys that figured out how to pull it out with the trans on, but your taking a chance on tearing **** up, its your car man. My way takes about 2 hours start to finish, for even your average Joe. If you want to go against the grain, go ahead, just trying to be helpful.
Hey 2Jz-S2kowner; I see that you have kind of been getting blasted in some of your posts, but I appreciate the advice that you give. It seems like you actually know what you are talking about and give something that the forum needs; real world knowledge about how to do something properly. Really not trying to be a di** rider but your posts have been pretty helpful so far
I'm not blasting anyone. I must have missed it but I thought he was going to drop the engine not pull it out through the bay. If you're going to pull it out through the bay that's a different story. Theres more chance of damaging something with tranny attached.
BTW this may not refer to you but the 06 driveshaft bolts are 8mm not 6mm like some previous years and they are not to bad to take out. Use a snapping motion instead of a easy pull motion or they will round out.
5 Skware, for you saying what is done properly is your own opinion. There are alot of things done differently in this field and not everyone does things the same way. If you haven't done this before how do you know what's right? Especially if you're doing this in your home garage and not at a shop that has a lift and all the convienent equipment that helps out to have but aren't required. You insult everyone who contributed to this thread other then 2jz-s2000owner.
Modified by hdsupercrewf150 at 4:59 PM 12/22/2006
BTW this may not refer to you but the 06 driveshaft bolts are 8mm not 6mm like some previous years and they are not to bad to take out. Use a snapping motion instead of a easy pull motion or they will round out.
5 Skware, for you saying what is done properly is your own opinion. There are alot of things done differently in this field and not everyone does things the same way. If you haven't done this before how do you know what's right? Especially if you're doing this in your home garage and not at a shop that has a lift and all the convienent equipment that helps out to have but aren't required. You insult everyone who contributed to this thread other then 2jz-s2000owner.
Modified by hdsupercrewf150 at 4:59 PM 12/22/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2jz-s2000owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor has to come forward too much for the trans to clear and be able to lift out, but it cant come out cause the motor can only come forward until it hits the support beam above the steering rack. The way i told you to do it is right out of the Honda Shop Repair Manual, its the safest way. Ya, there might be a few guys that figured out how to pull it out with the trans on, but your taking a chance on tearing **** up, its your car man. My way takes about 2 hours start to finish, for even your average Joe. If you want to go against the grain, go ahead, just trying to be helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was actually planning to drop it through through the bottom
i was actually planning to drop it through through the bottom



