Wanting to see what Honda-Tech thinks on the Topic!

Tom
http://www.Spun-Autosports.com


Modified by spunautosports at 11:34 AM 12/18/2006

 

broke mine in on the dyno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">broke mine in on the dyno </TD></TR></TABLE>

ME TOO!!!...That is probably the best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22PwrdHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ME TOO!!!...That is probably the best. </TD></TR></TABLE>

X3 agreed.

Best method, if in the hands of a capable tuner.

 

Prime engine
Run for a few minutes, keeping RPM over 2k
Verify there are no leaks
Take out on the road, make about 10 pulls. Accelerate to about 7000 RPM or so (75%) throttle, and allow the car to decellerate all the way back down to a slow speed. Repeat another 10 times.
Change oil
Make sure everything is good
Go race...

^ This is how I broke my motor in.

 

Dont forget to change ur oil after your first few runs!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XLR8 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to change ur oil after your first few runs!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

how many miles are we suppose to break in dyno. How many hours. Mines is currently breaking in on the dyno after the rebuilt.

 

this is how i plan on breaking in my motor, but i have to finish building it first


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Prime engine
Run for a few minutes, keeping RPM over 2k
Verify there are no leaks
Take out on the road, make about 10 pulls. Accelerate to about 7000 RPM or so (75%) throttle, and allow the car to decellerate all the way back down to a slow speed. Repeat another 10 times.
Change oil
Make sure everything is good
Go race...

^ This is how I broke my motor in.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the deceleration puts alot of vaccum in the cylinders, thus creating a nice tight seal
with the rings and the wall.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECommie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is how i plan on breaking in my motor, but i have to finish building it first


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so i should i change oil after i get my car dyno tuned??

 

Start engine.
Verify no leaks.
Run up to operating temp, not letting the engine idle.
Shut engine off
Drain oil immediately while the engine is still hot, letting oil seep out for at least 10 minutes.
Change oil and filter.
Tow chassis to dyno facility.
Progressive runs to planned redline.

 

i just let the rings seat for 10 min then its ok to drive hard

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECommie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

The site failed to mention the most critical thing when you have a fully built or a motor that is not factory setting, ie. high compression, aggressive cams, different fuel pressure, injectors, etc., is to have the engine's a/f ratio at 14.7 at crusing and 13-12:1 at 50%-100% throttle.
If the engine is running lean then that break in method will break something. Just wanted to point this out since there are many ppl that will just read that article and do that without considering other major factors that involves making an engine operates without breaking it.

 

Its good if you are rebuilding a motor with the same specs--this way your tune will be pretty close. I would do a compression test before I even started the motor then idle it for 20 minutes (provided you can get a 13:1 to 14.7:1 idle going), make sure there aren't any leaks or strange noises--change the oil, and go tune on the dyno or the street--in the process of tuning, I would stick to the same brand of fuel from the same station to eliminate as many variables as possible. Once its fully tuned, you can drive it how you would normally drive it. Also, do oil changes every 500 miles (after the first one) until 1000 miles, then start using synthetic if you want. Throughout this process I would be doing compression and leakdown tests every couple hundred miles. Me personally, would stay away from the SA and SB rated non-detergent oil and just use a good (Shell, Castrol, Havoline) "dinosaur" oil until the 1000 mile mark. Also, be paying attention to how the oil looks when you drain it and also on the dipstick. Make a note if it starts dirty and gets clean or if it starts clean and stays clean.

 

I asked the question here about using synthetic motor oil for break in as some of the oil companies say you can do--and pretty much got my head bitten off....so I am still up in the air about that.

 

break it in the way you plan to drive it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also, be paying attention to how the oil looks when you drain it and also on the dipstick. Make a note if it starts dirty and gets clean or if it starts clean and stays clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey d16 I never came across this b4. Im just curious as to which each sign indicates and why?

 

Use dino oil for break in, Apparently synthetic oil lubricates TOO good... and the piston rings won't seat as well. I haven't tried using it and I probably won't. Also, since your oil changes are so frequent it would be a waste of good oil and $ anyway.

I read a post on Bobistheoilguy.com, to use Halvoline oil.. because it contains more moly lubricant than other dino.

I go straight to syn after break in though..

 

Well usually, the oil is going to be pretty dirty on the first change--after that it should start clearing up--if it doesn't start clearing up it could be a sign that the motor isn't sealing too well and the blowby is contaminating the oil, darkening it. You might also have a motor that has golden amber color oil on the first change--so whatever you did on that build that is giving you clean oil on a brand new motor, follow it on your next build. that is the way I look at it at least.

 

Like one thing in particular that I think gave my current motor very, very clean oil on the first change was that I really rubbed the bores down with ATF. I used Acetone and wd-40 with a white paper towel and after a little bit the paper towel came out clean--but since ATF has very good solvency I started to rub the bores down with some of it, the paper towel that showed up clean using the acetone was covered in grey/brown spots using the ATF--it actually took another 20 minutes of paper towels with atf on them to get no debris on the towel. So the atf did a hell of a better job getting all the machining slurry that you can't see off of the bores.

 

How I did mine

1) Start car with straight 30 weight for 20 minutes. Drove very easy for about 10miles with a wideband (14.5 A/F). Changed out oil for GTX 5W-30

2) Drove around for 30 miles semi-hard with wideband and A/F was anywhere from 13.5 - 15.2

3) Hit redline a couple times for a week until street tuned on Crome by xenocron

4) Changed oil every 50 miles, then 100, then 200, then 1000, then normal 3000

5) After a month tuned again on a dyno with VAFC2

Now I'm burning a qt a week and smokes like a ************ on WOT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Drove very easy for about 10miles and
Now I'm burning a qt a week and smokes like a ************ on WOT </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you solved your own problem.
2nd gear deceleration is where its at! the vacuum to seal your rings that is.

 

what kinda oil should I use after I hit the dyno, syn or non syn?

 

broke in my motor on the dyno as well