I did a quick search and didn't see this in there so here it is.

WARNING MAKE SURE THE AIR CONDITION SYSTEM HAS BEEN PROPERLY DISCHARGED BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS.

Tools and supplies you need.
roof flashing $18 at home-depo 10'x2' (or other thin metal)
windo weld $7 I think at autozone
scissor
felips and flat head screw driver
caulking gun
8mm wrench
10mm socket
long exstinon
marker to trace onto flashing




I did a under hood air condition removal a few months ago and left the under dash condenser in. I was board so I removed it today. Heres how I did it.

1st Remove the hoses under the hood that connects to the pipes that come out of the fire wall. (I just cut them with a hack saw at the screw on fittings.

2nd Remove glove compartment. Theres two screws under the glove compartment.

3rd Remove the cross member that sits right behind the glove box. When looking at it on the left theres 2 8mm bolts and on the right theres 2 10mm bolts.

4th Time to remove the black air box that hold the condenser. Remove the 10mm bolt at the top and the 10mm nut at the bottom. Then remove the 2 10mm screws that hold the silver straps on.


after removing these bolts pull the silver straps down and they will fall to the floor. Then grab the black box and pull it back towards you.

5th Now at this stage I unhooked the plug right under the carpet just under where the box was and cut the zip tie under the hood that hold the wires that come out of the hole.


6th Remove the wire from the big grommet that has the two holes in it and trace its shape onto a piece of flashing. You can cut it out with scissor.


7th Using the caulking gun put a bead of windo weld around the hole in the fire wall. Take the round flashing you just cut out and place it over the hole and press on it all the way around it. Press it until a even amount is squeezed out. Make sure to smooth out the windo weld that squeezes out under the hood to make it look good.
This is what it should look like.



8th Use the flat head to pop off the clips that hold the box together and the 3 screws that hold it together. and remove the condenser.


9th To fill the holes in the black box cut a piece of flashing to cover the hole where the condensed lines came in. Also I filled in the drain hole at the bottom and the hole where a temp probe with wires went threw.


10th Before reinstalling the box I recommend to run the blower fan to blow any trash out of there and change the setting between fresh and in cabin air.
Now just close up the box and reinstall it into the dash.

Sorry for the crappy pix I have a cheap cam.
Also the reason for using the flashing is I didn't want to pay honda for a block off plate, no junkyards around have cars with them and I already had the flashing.


I hope this helps

EDIT
I forgot to mention somthing about the drain line that come out the bottom of the black box. If you pull it into the car there is a grommet on it and the hole size is perfict to run you amp/battery relocation wire, its about a 1/2".

Also try not to get any windo weld on your hand it is hard as hell to get it off. I mean really really hard I still have some on my hands.

EDIT
The condenser weighs about 6LBS and the rest of the system (front mount raditor thing and fan, pump, lines and wires)weights 47LBS thats 53LBS plus the weight of the fluid easy 55LBS.

Modified by 90crxdriver at 5:44 PM 12/17/2006


Modified by 90crxdriver at 5:46 PM 12/17/2006


Modified by 90crxdriver at 2:08 PM 6/16/2007

 

nice

 

nice write up

 

thanks
I thought it would be nice to show how easy it is to fab a block off plate. and install it.

Also added some info to the end of my write up.

 

thank you, I have been wanting to do this but didn't know how A+

 

your welcome

I did this to my last car (1988 Mitsubishi cordia turbo) and it sucked. I had to damn near pull the entire dash out.

On the CRX its really easy. The condenser weighs about 6LBS and the rest of the system weights 47LBS thats 53LBS plus the weight of the fluid easy 55LBS.

 

Nice, Im curious (forgive me if this is stupid) but does the heat and defrost still work after you remove the box? IDK anything about this system

 

yes it works the heat is seprate from the A/C. the air is blown threw the empty box and into the next section. It actuall works better and blows harder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it works the heat is seprate from the A/C. the air is blown threw the empty box and into the next section. It actuall works better and blows harder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great to know, now I can actually mount my fuse box out of the ecu's way, and have the floor plate in there again!
Good job man, thanks

 

pics are down. Anyway to get them back?

 

ok there back up.


Modified by 90crxdriver at 2:12 PM 6/16/2007

 

fyi you can just get the non A/C firewall plug from the dealer for $4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob_760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fyi you can just get the non A/C firewall plug from the dealer for $4</TD></TR></TABLE>
And you can buy an OEM part that will connect the blower and heater in place of the removed evaporator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it works the heat is seprate from the A/C. the air is blown threw the empty box and into the next section. It actuall works better and blows harder.</TD></TR></TABLE> that is awesome great write up, and i may do this when i get home

 

your the best thanks !!!!

 

best part of this is 55LBS removed from your car and no drag on the motor.

 

nice work

There is actually a part that replaces the evaporator completely on the models without A/C. I am looking for the part (white plastic tube) that replaces the evaporator online but I cannot find it. maybe someone knows what im talking about and can post a link. either way, nice work!

 

I can't wait to get my A/C put back in.

-Chris

 

I looked for the OEM non A/C tube and couldn't find one online or at a junkyard so thats why I did this. Plus I already has the sheet metal and all the tools.

So basically it was a free mod.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">55LBS</TD></TR></TABLE>

"It is said that the compressor weighs about 40lbs since when you hold it it seems really heavy. It is not 40lbs, more like 17lbs with it's bracket, but that is still a lot..."

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/ac.html

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you can buy an OEM part that will connect the blower and heater in place of the removed evaporator. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but me and my friend who works at Honda absolutely could not find the non a/c duct in the catalog lol... I don't know that it really isn't in there somewhere but we couldn't find it. I got one from healtoe automotive. http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Hon....html

 

I just did the EXACT same thing a few weeks ago except I cut out a piece of a mountain dew can and siliconed it in place of the hole.

good info regardless

 

I weighed every thing all together and it came out to be 53LBS

"The condenser weighed about 6LBS and the rest of the system (front mount radiator thing and fan, pump, lines and wires) weights 47LBS thats 53LBS plus the weight of the fluid easy 55LBS."


Bob_760
Awsome find but $45+ shiping. damn! I like my cheap way better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I weighed every thing all together and it came out to be 53LBS

"The condenser weighed about 6LBS and the rest of the system (front mount radiator thing and fan, pump, lines and wires) weights 47LBS thats 53LBS plus the weight of the fluid easy 55LBS."


Bob_760
Awsome find but $45+ shiping. damn! I like my cheap way better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It used to be the same way you did it (gutted sealed up a/c box) except with the OEM firewall plug, but now since I have the car stripped down to a bare chassis I figured I'd go get the duct.