Thinking about building a d series head, need some advice.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 411
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From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
So my friend has a spare d16 head from a crx si that I could get from him for pretty cheap. I have a b series in my crx, but have never really built or worked on a head. I was thinking of getting it from him for something to learn on. I'm not sure if I would do it with oem parts or performance. But I was really just wondering how much it would cost me, and if it would be a good way to learn. Any input would be appreciated.
What would you want to do learn to port, mill etc or just put it together after taking it apart?
Why must people randomly buy parts...
Why must people randomly buy parts...
Go for it, buy a die grinder and some cast iron carbide bits as aluminum-specific bits eat in a hurry.
You are probably better off learning on something cast, but a6/b2 heads are cheap (at least where I am, $20 jy).
I can tell you this: stock ports at max lift, which I figure to be .550"ish. (I do not have an accurate way to measure 4 valve heads with a micrometer on the flowbench at work) Or the point at which the ports go static . . .
On a pm9 head the intake went 197cfm @ 28" of h20
exhaust went 136cfm @ 28"
After about an hour on the intake, mine went 226cfm @ 28"
and the exhaust went right at 200cfm.
The intakes are very well cast from the factory (which is why I think intake bias on d cams are hype), and my exhausts had roughly 130,000 miles of carbon build-up. I bet I took off .006" just in build-up before even touching the port itself. The throat is very small on the exhaust and around the guide isn't nearly as good as the intakes. Also there is a lip around both the intakes and exhausts that make absolutely no sense whatsoever.
There are pictures up on the internet and I hope to get mine up wednesday.
You are probably better off learning on something cast, but a6/b2 heads are cheap (at least where I am, $20 jy).
I can tell you this: stock ports at max lift, which I figure to be .550"ish. (I do not have an accurate way to measure 4 valve heads with a micrometer on the flowbench at work) Or the point at which the ports go static . . .
On a pm9 head the intake went 197cfm @ 28" of h20
exhaust went 136cfm @ 28"
After about an hour on the intake, mine went 226cfm @ 28"
and the exhaust went right at 200cfm.
The intakes are very well cast from the factory (which is why I think intake bias on d cams are hype), and my exhausts had roughly 130,000 miles of carbon build-up. I bet I took off .006" just in build-up before even touching the port itself. The throat is very small on the exhaust and around the guide isn't nearly as good as the intakes. Also there is a lip around both the intakes and exhausts that make absolutely no sense whatsoever.
There are pictures up on the internet and I hope to get mine up wednesday.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL, United States of America
Alright, good point on not buying parts. I think I could learn a lot just taking apart and putting back together. As for porting I would love to learn but before I do that I think I need to study more about it and then get some more tools. Thanks for the advice!
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