gas milage with a boosted d-series.
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gas milage with a boosted d-series.
i have been planning to have a boosted d-series for a while now but im curious on how much mpg they get like i deff dont want a boosted d that will only get like 15mpg. just curious. i would imagine on a good tune that it would get pretty decent gas milage. im lookin into the 170-220whp range, (tops) just wondering if some people that are making that kind of power could post up or say what they guestimate what there mpg is.
thanks everyone
thanks everyone
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From: Florida
im just really currious. cause i have an ej6 and am going to boost but no boost yet. my friend also has an ej6 and he just got a b16 swap in it. i rode in it with him and damn that thing is hella fast. atleast fast enough for me. plus i know they get like what 24-26 mpg. and he's n/a.(i like n/a but usually f/i seems to be faster, but im also thinkin about starting to try and run on closed track courses(auto X). just need to work on my suspension. but curious what people get. i would be using hopefully a t3 with a .42 a/r compressor wheel
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Depends.
I'll tell you first hand b/c I had a GSX eclipse.
If you romp on it, it's gonna suck you dry on gas mpg. You go easy on it, you'll get better mpg then you normally do O.O.
Guess it's made up by the fact that you can't put cheap **** gas in there though
.
It's all in your drive. Please don't respond with "oh, okay, whatever, so how much AVERAGE" or some stupid **** like that.
It's COMPLETELY based on your driving, you beat on it, you'll see numbers near the low 20's off the highway, you go easy on it, instead of 30mpg or so off the highway you might see 32 or so.
I'll tell you first hand b/c I had a GSX eclipse.
If you romp on it, it's gonna suck you dry on gas mpg. You go easy on it, you'll get better mpg then you normally do O.O.
Guess it's made up by the fact that you can't put cheap **** gas in there though
.It's all in your drive. Please don't respond with "oh, okay, whatever, so how much AVERAGE" or some stupid **** like that.
It's COMPLETELY based on your driving, you beat on it, you'll see numbers near the low 20's off the highway, you go easy on it, instead of 30mpg or so off the highway you might see 32 or so.
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From: Locash
Re: (Syndacate)
You control boost with the gas pedal. You need heavy throttle and some RPMs to get into boost. 90% of the time, you're N/A. Same as stock but with some added restriction in the exhaust and intake due to the turbo.
You'll get better mileage than stock if you choose the right components, the right tuner, and you don't drive any differently.
Chip/piggyback/hacked ecu = worse mileage and compromised reliability
properly tuned standalone ems = better mileage, no effect on reliability
The turbo will get you up to cruising speed faster resulting in better mileage.
You'll get better mileage than stock if you choose the right components, the right tuner, and you don't drive any differently.
Chip/piggyback/hacked ecu = worse mileage and compromised reliability
properly tuned standalone ems = better mileage, no effect on reliability
The turbo will get you up to cruising speed faster resulting in better mileage.
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From: etown, Ca, USA
Re: (big-cat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im just really currious. cause i have an ej6 and am going to boost but no boost yet. my friend also has an ej6 and he just got a b16 swap in it. i rode in it with him and damn that thing is hella fast. atleast fast enough for me. plus i know they get like what 24-26 mpg. and he's n/a.(i like n/a but usually f/i seems to be faster, but im also thinkin about starting to try and run on closed track courses(auto X). just need to work on my suspension. but curious what people get. i would be using hopefully a t3 with a .42 a/r compressor wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.
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From: Newnan, GA, USA
Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you build the motor the right way. By this I mean, aftermarket radiator and upgrade the rest of the cooling system and you should not overheat. Don't race with the AC on
as far as reliability goes, upgrade the internals, keep up with regular maintanence, and a good tune and the motor should be just as reliable as any N/A motor
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you build the motor the right way. By this I mean, aftermarket radiator and upgrade the rest of the cooling system and you should not overheat. Don't race with the AC on
as far as reliability goes, upgrade the internals, keep up with regular maintanence, and a good tune and the motor should be just as reliable as any N/A motor
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (MyEG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know man.
I think that's a load of bullshit.
If you build the turbo setup right & is tuned right it's just reliable on and off autocross or HPDE as a naturally aspired, stock motor.
Will generally want to avoid turbos when running autox/hpde. Reliability issues arise out of running full throttle for long periods of time. Overheating, melted hoses, etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know man.
I think that's a load of bullshit.
If you build the turbo setup right & is tuned right it's just reliable on and off autocross or HPDE as a naturally aspired, stock motor.
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From: Florida
im still really undecided. i was thinkin boost my d16y7 with the y8IM on it. or swap to either b16. if i ran the boost on my motor i wouldnt have any mods to internals at all. i was also thinkin swap to a better d-series and then boost.
i have a question a little off topic is there a way to get an obd0 b16 in my car? like could i use an b16 wiring harness from a obd1 and use the obd1 computer with obd0 motor or no it just wont work? the reason im asking is because i know that the obd0 b16's are easier to find and buy.
i have a question a little off topic is there a way to get an obd0 b16 in my car? like could i use an b16 wiring harness from a obd1 and use the obd1 computer with obd0 motor or no it just wont work? the reason im asking is because i know that the obd0 b16's are easier to find and buy.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (slkleltlclh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slkleltlclh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna boost my d-series motor but then i thought,....why peak at 180-200 hp when i can save a lil more and get a b18c5 motor and START at 200.</TD></TR></TABLE>
'Cause boosting a D motor only costs 1000-2000 bucks. Unless you're a complete ******* moron and buy like a 3500 dollar kit from greddy or something. Then if you blow the motor, it's 100-400 bucks to replace.
Also, the D series motor doesn't "peak" at 200whp, it stops at 200whp on stock internals. If you upgrade the internals (rods/bearings/pistons) you can run a lot more than that, theres a guy on here with a Y8 running 450whp.
Also, the ITR does not put out 200whp. It puts out 200hp. There's a big difference there when you're talking in terms of a FWD drivetrain and a still small 1.8L displacement to take away 15-20% of your power. So maybe 170whp with a lower tq. rating.
Then what? You "start" at 175 or whatever to build up your engine...yeah, great, then what are you going to do? You have to do a strong NA build ($$$$$$$) or you can boost it (boosting an ITR isn't the cheapest thing since the D16 - and if you throw a rod - that really sucks).
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
An ITR would make a good motor if you only want 175-220whp and that's that. With your purposes, you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.
Not worth it in my opinion because A) D-series parts are hella lot cheaper and B) an ITR costs hella lot more than a D-series turbo. If you think that your price of building a turbo costs almost as much as an ITR you're definitely shopping in the wrong ******* place.
Though if you think it's worth it - power to ya
.
'Cause boosting a D motor only costs 1000-2000 bucks. Unless you're a complete ******* moron and buy like a 3500 dollar kit from greddy or something. Then if you blow the motor, it's 100-400 bucks to replace.
Also, the D series motor doesn't "peak" at 200whp, it stops at 200whp on stock internals. If you upgrade the internals (rods/bearings/pistons) you can run a lot more than that, theres a guy on here with a Y8 running 450whp.
Also, the ITR does not put out 200whp. It puts out 200hp. There's a big difference there when you're talking in terms of a FWD drivetrain and a still small 1.8L displacement to take away 15-20% of your power. So maybe 170whp with a lower tq. rating.
Then what? You "start" at 175 or whatever to build up your engine...yeah, great, then what are you going to do? You have to do a strong NA build ($$$$$$$) or you can boost it (boosting an ITR isn't the cheapest thing since the D16 - and if you throw a rod - that really sucks).
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
An ITR would make a good motor if you only want 175-220whp and that's that. With your purposes, you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.
Not worth it in my opinion because A) D-series parts are hella lot cheaper and B) an ITR costs hella lot more than a D-series turbo. If you think that your price of building a turbo costs almost as much as an ITR you're definitely shopping in the wrong ******* place.
Though if you think it's worth it - power to ya
.
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
'Cause boosting a D motor only costs 1000-2000 bucks. Unless you're a complete ******* moron and buy like a 3500 dollar kit from greddy or something. Then if you blow the motor, it's 100-400 bucks to replace.
Also, the D series motor doesn't "peak" at 200whp, it stops at 200whp on stock internals. If you upgrade the internals (rods/bearings/pistons) you can run a lot more than that, theres a guy on here with a Y8 running 450whp.
Also, the ITR does not put out 200whp. It puts out 200hp. There's a big difference there when you're talking in terms of a FWD drivetrain and a still small 1.8L displacement to take away 15-20% of your power. So maybe 170whp with a lower tq. rating.
Then what? You "start" at 175 or whatever to build up your engine...yeah, great, then what are you going to do? You have to do a strong NA build ($$$$$$$) or you can boost it (boosting an ITR isn't the cheapest thing since the D16 - and if you throw a rod - that really sucks).
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
An ITR would make a good motor if you only want 175-220whp and that's that. With your purposes, you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.
Not worth it in my opinion because A) D-series parts are hella lot cheaper and B) an ITR costs hella lot more than a D-series turbo. If you think that your price of building a turbo costs almost as much as an ITR you're definitely shopping in the wrong ******* place.
Though if you think it's worth it - power to ya.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok chill out thanks for the recomendations though. please just give recomendations and or reasons and back ur reasons up with facts, but there is no need to get pissed at everybody. there is so much fuking fighting with society now days. wtf has this world come to.
'Cause boosting a D motor only costs 1000-2000 bucks. Unless you're a complete ******* moron and buy like a 3500 dollar kit from greddy or something. Then if you blow the motor, it's 100-400 bucks to replace.
Also, the D series motor doesn't "peak" at 200whp, it stops at 200whp on stock internals. If you upgrade the internals (rods/bearings/pistons) you can run a lot more than that, theres a guy on here with a Y8 running 450whp.
Also, the ITR does not put out 200whp. It puts out 200hp. There's a big difference there when you're talking in terms of a FWD drivetrain and a still small 1.8L displacement to take away 15-20% of your power. So maybe 170whp with a lower tq. rating.
Then what? You "start" at 175 or whatever to build up your engine...yeah, great, then what are you going to do? You have to do a strong NA build ($$$$$$$) or you can boost it (boosting an ITR isn't the cheapest thing since the D16 - and if you throw a rod - that really sucks).
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
An ITR would make a good motor if you only want 175-220whp and that's that. With your purposes, you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.
Not worth it in my opinion because A) D-series parts are hella lot cheaper and B) an ITR costs hella lot more than a D-series turbo. If you think that your price of building a turbo costs almost as much as an ITR you're definitely shopping in the wrong ******* place.
Though if you think it's worth it - power to ya
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok chill out thanks for the recomendations though. please just give recomendations and or reasons and back ur reasons up with facts, but there is no need to get pissed at everybody. there is so much fuking fighting with society now days. wtf has this world come to.
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From: terrytown, la
Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a lot of nerve. I've been reading your posts for months now and they nearly ALWAYS come after someone has already answered the question and you come in the thread just repeating the same **** someone else has already said like your adding to the damn thread w/ more information.
and yes..i would rather start w/ an ITR motor than a boosted D. i'd rather the reliablity of a stock motor making nearly the same amount of power as a boosted d series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a zex cam? its a DOHC motor..what good would 1 zex cam do? and since when are zex cams a better cam to get for an ITR motor. seems like they are good for SOHC's but i'm sure there are much better out there than ******* zex.
Look into **** about comparing different motors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a lot of nerve. I've been reading your posts for months now and they nearly ALWAYS come after someone has already answered the question and you come in the thread just repeating the same **** someone else has already said like your adding to the damn thread w/ more information.
and yes..i would rather start w/ an ITR motor than a boosted D. i'd rather the reliablity of a stock motor making nearly the same amount of power as a boosted d series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get an ITR with I/H/E, maybe an intake manifold, and a zex cam or something and that might get you close (if not put you over) the 200 marker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a zex cam? its a DOHC motor..what good would 1 zex cam do? and since when are zex cams a better cam to get for an ITR motor. seems like they are good for SOHC's but i'm sure there are much better out there than ******* zex.
Re: (slkleltlclh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slkleltlclh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna boost my d-series motor but then i thought,....why peak at 180-200 hp when i can save a lil more and get a b18c5 motor and START at 200.</TD></TR></TABLE>
torque.
torque.
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From: boostinds, WI, USA
Re: (slkleltlclh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slkleltlclh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna boost my d-series motor but then i thought,....why peak at 180-200 hp when i can save a lil more and get a b18c5 motor and START at 200.</TD></TR></TABLE>
200 isnt maxed, and 200 for the c5 is at the crank not the wheels like your 180-200 "maxed out power"
200 isnt maxed, and 200 for the c5 is at the crank not the wheels like your 180-200 "maxed out power"
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From: boostinds, WI, USA
Re: (Turbo_y8)
It kinda depends on your setup for gas mileage.
some factors
-turbo size
-injector size
-how its driven
-what psi
-fuel and timing (tuner- rich lean, conservative or aggressive timing)
a smaller turbo means you see boost at lower RPM's which call for more fuel. Drive it harder(in boost more) more gas.
Currently right now im running 10 psi on a t3 super 60, i dont know what im at to the wheels at 10psi. Recently up the boost and had it street tuned, but at 8psi i was making 228/197, so 10 psi maybe 240whp, and im still averaging 31mpg.
some factors
-turbo size
-injector size
-how its driven
-what psi
-fuel and timing (tuner- rich lean, conservative or aggressive timing)
a smaller turbo means you see boost at lower RPM's which call for more fuel. Drive it harder(in boost more) more gas.
Currently right now im running 10 psi on a t3 super 60, i dont know what im at to the wheels at 10psi. Recently up the boost and had it street tuned, but at 8psi i was making 228/197, so 10 psi maybe 240whp, and im still averaging 31mpg.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: (bsixteen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bsixteen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have a lot of nerve. I've been reading your posts for months now and they nearly ALWAYS come after someone has already answered the question and you come in the thread just repeating the same **** someone else has already said like your adding to the damn thread w/ more information.
and yes..i would rather start w/ an ITR motor than a boosted D. i'd rather the reliablity of a stock motor making nearly the same amount of power as a boosted d series.
a zex cam? its a DOHC motor..what good would 1 zex cam do? and since when are zex cams a better cam to get for an ITR motor. seems like they are good for SOHC's but i'm sure there are much better out there than ******* zex.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, dick whip me for leaving out an "s" - that'll really get ya someplace.
I'm sorry you feel I'm reposting information.
Nine times out of ten I don't even read the responses before me when I post the first time - so I'm not "copying somebody else" as you so imply. Wouldn't you feel it would be better if more than one person who had no idea the other(s) posted said the same thing? Wouldn't you figure that as a more decisive way of a direct opinion correlating to a more accurate answer of a problem?
As for you starting on an ITR instead of a boosted D. I'm sorry, but it's honestly not my problem that you ******* build **** setups. If you build and tune it right a D series on boost will have just as much reliability as an ITR will have.
BTW: You complain about my posts, yada yada, if they are like you say they are and they are all copies of something else, then you already know what I'm going to say (assuming you've read posts above mine) and have absolutely no need nor reason to read my posts in any way, shape, or form.
So why do you read them?
@ Big-cat.
About the "why can't we all just get along" speech.
I wasn't angry, annoyed, pissed, nor arguing.
I had no argumentative meanings in that post, this one I do, though that's not at you, that's just because bsixteen is misinformed and confused.
You have a lot of nerve. I've been reading your posts for months now and they nearly ALWAYS come after someone has already answered the question and you come in the thread just repeating the same **** someone else has already said like your adding to the damn thread w/ more information.
and yes..i would rather start w/ an ITR motor than a boosted D. i'd rather the reliablity of a stock motor making nearly the same amount of power as a boosted d series.
a zex cam? its a DOHC motor..what good would 1 zex cam do? and since when are zex cams a better cam to get for an ITR motor. seems like they are good for SOHC's but i'm sure there are much better out there than ******* zex.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, dick whip me for leaving out an "s" - that'll really get ya someplace.
I'm sorry you feel I'm reposting information.
Nine times out of ten I don't even read the responses before me when I post the first time - so I'm not "copying somebody else" as you so imply. Wouldn't you feel it would be better if more than one person who had no idea the other(s) posted said the same thing? Wouldn't you figure that as a more decisive way of a direct opinion correlating to a more accurate answer of a problem?
As for you starting on an ITR instead of a boosted D. I'm sorry, but it's honestly not my problem that you ******* build **** setups. If you build and tune it right a D series on boost will have just as much reliability as an ITR will have.
BTW: You complain about my posts, yada yada, if they are like you say they are and they are all copies of something else, then you already know what I'm going to say (assuming you've read posts above mine) and have absolutely no need nor reason to read my posts in any way, shape, or form.
So why do you read them?
@ Big-cat.
About the "why can't we all just get along" speech.
I wasn't angry, annoyed, pissed, nor arguing.
I had no argumentative meanings in that post, this one I do, though that's not at you, that's just because bsixteen is misinformed and confused.
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From: staten island, ny, united states
How did we get so off subject that the thread is now about comparing the "almighty" ITR motor to a boosted D when the OP was questioning his MPG with A TURBO D SETUP.
Like mentioned before, It all depends on your application. A mildly built D motor (meaning not all out race, looking for horsepower) with a good tune and the proper AF's should still get you in the 30's MPG wise. But in the same respect, people that have never driven or owned a turbo car before usually have the itch to giving a little more gas at times.. Like also mentioned, its all in the way you drive with said setup as well. Turbo D ftw, go for it man you wont be disappointed.
Btw, Syndacate was all on topic and his posts are normally accurate in giving people proper information..he's helped me out before. If you look back, Sketch is the one to blame for this thread going to ****..
Like mentioned before, It all depends on your application. A mildly built D motor (meaning not all out race, looking for horsepower) with a good tune and the proper AF's should still get you in the 30's MPG wise. But in the same respect, people that have never driven or owned a turbo car before usually have the itch to giving a little more gas at times.. Like also mentioned, its all in the way you drive with said setup as well. Turbo D ftw, go for it man you wont be disappointed.
Btw, Syndacate was all on topic and his posts are normally accurate in giving people proper information..he's helped me out before.
If you look back, Sketch is the one to blame for this thread going to ****..