After my S has warmed up, I hear a popping noise in the rear when I am coming to a stop and sometimes when I am taking off. It sounds like it occurs once everytime the tire completes a revolution. Does anyone know what this could be?

 

check your tires.. check for loose items..

its just a sound or do you feel anything??

 

its just a sound. i'll look for loose items. could it be a loose axel nut or diff problem?

 

I've heard of this. There's actually a TSB (Technical service bulletin). This means you're not the only one that this has happened to. Im not sure of the procedure, but i think you have to take off the axle nut (the central one, not the wheel lug nuts). It's probably like a 36-38mm socket. You put anti seize on the mating surfaces of the nut and the hub..and that is supposed to solve the problem. Again, like i said, Im not totally clear that what i said is the procedure. Try looking on google for TSBs for your vehicle...or if not, hopefully someone who has successfully fixed this problem with post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of this. There's actually a TSB (Technical service bulletin). This means you're not the only one that this has happened to. Im not sure of the procedure, but i think you have to take off the axle nut (the central one, not the wheel lug nuts). It's probably like a 36-38mm socket. You put anti seize on the mating surfaces of the nut and the hub..and that is supposed to solve the problem. Again, like i said, Im not totally clear that what i said is the procedure. Try looking on google for TSBs for your vehicle...or if not, hopefully someone who has successfully fixed this problem with post. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's not guess.

1) Take off wheel, take off center cap, put wheel back on, put car back on ground.
2) Pull the parking brake up, put car in gear.
3) Tighten axle nut with 36mm socket to 220ft/lb.
4) Put center cap back on, repeat for other wheel.

If that doesn't work, have your axles and rear end checked out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Let's not guess.

1) Take off wheel, take off center cap, put wheel back on, put car back on ground.
2) Pull the parking brake up, put car in gear.
3) Tighten axle nut with 36mm socket to 220ft/lb.
4) Put center cap back on, repeat for other wheel.

If that doesn't work, have your axles and rear end checked out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you take the center cap off without taking the wheel off?? that would make it so much easier/faster sounds like i might have that same problem

 

wow this happened to me yesterday. i right rear wheel was loose but the rims were torqued down. i thought it was the hub bearing that was fucked up. when i took the wheel off the axel nut was almost completly off. never touched it befor lastnite. not sure how this could have happened. im lucky the wheel didnt fall off on me. i was driving it around all day trying to figure out what was wrong with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamsicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its just a sound. i'll look for loose items. could it be a loose axel nut or diff problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh oh. This doesn't sound very good. Check all the little things first before you do anything major. Your best bet is to check the tires for any type of loose debris and retighten the rear Axle nut to 215 ft/lbs with a 36mm head.

If this does not solve the problem, you may he entered into my world and that is a very bad thing.

I've been suffering from the shakes and pops for the longest time until my rear end came crashing down 2 weeks ago so I should be be a pro when it comes to this. haha. You may have symptoms of a "failing diff". Things to look for...

1) When coming to a complete to stop, popping sounds will occur from the rear end, and will get slower and slower and even slower until the car is not in motion. It will sound like this...

"Pup.Pup.Pup...Pup...Pup.....Pup.......Pup........ .....Pup..................Pup"

2)and then when you start to accelerate again, you here it very very slightly, but will "go away" when you catch speed.

If this is the case, this my friend is the act of a Blown Ring and Pinion. Chances are, you blew shards of metal off your pinion's teeth and it is bouncing around in your diff carrier.

You will need a new stock 4.10 ring and Pinion that you can buy used off s2ki for about $75-$150 (Put a little more money up front and run 4.77 gears because your going to be down there anyways ), New OEM diff bearings that cost about $60 a pop, $190 for an OEM shim kit for the diff, and expect to pay the ball park pricing of $250+ for Diff labor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

can you take the center cap off without taking the wheel off?? that would make it so much easier/faster sounds like i might have that same problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not without possibly damaging them. They're only plastic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j-werk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow this happened to me yesterday. i right rear wheel was loose but the rims were torqued down. i thought it was the hub bearing that was fucked up. when i took the wheel off the axel nut was almost completly off. never touched it befor lastnite. not sure how this could have happened. im lucky the wheel didnt fall off on me. i was driving it around all day trying to figure out what was wrong with it
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure you tighten the nut and dent the locking slot with a punch/hammer. This keeps the nut from turning by itself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouSo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh oh. This doesn't sound very good. Check all the little things first before you do anything major. Your best bet is to check the tires for any type of loose debris and retighten the rear Axle nut to 215 ft/lbs with a 36mm head.

If this does not solve the problem, you may he entered into my world and that is a very bad thing.

I've been suffering from the shakes and pops for the longest time until my rear end came crashing down 2 weeks ago so I should be be a pro when it comes to this. haha. You may have symptoms of a "failing diff". Things to look for...

1) When coming to a complete to stop, popping sounds will occur from the rear end, and will get slower and slower and even slower until the car is not in motion. It will sound like this...

"Pup.Pup.Pup...Pup...Pup.....Pup.......Pup........ .....Pup..................Pup"

2)and then when you start to accelerate again, you here it very very slightly, but will "go away" when you catch speed.

If this is the case, this my friend is the act of a Blown Ring and Pinion. Chances are, you blew shards of metal off your pinion's teeth and it is bouncing around in your diff carrier.

You will need a new stock 4.10 ring and Pinion that you can buy used off s2ki for about $75-$150 (Put a little more money up front and run 4.77 gears because your going to be down there anyways ), New OEM diff bearings that cost about $60 a pop, $190 for an OEM shim kit for the diff, and expect to pay the ball park pricing of $250+ for Diff labor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^ Listen to this guy, cuz you're not gonna get lucky like he did.

 

all i get is more of a click noise mainly when going fron a gear to reverse and viseversa...

 

Check your nuts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all i get is more of a click noise mainly when going fron a gear to reverse and viseversa...</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your nuts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

215 ft/lbs, 36mm Nut. Tighthen Rear Axle Nut.

 

Already said it like 3 times... hahahahhaha.

 

So I took my car to a honda dealership and they said they think the clicking is caused by a wore down clutch. Is this possible? or do you think they are just hearing clutch buzz (which I have)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamsicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I took my car to a honda dealership and they said they think the clicking is caused by a wore down clutch. Is this possible? or do you think they are just hearing clutch buzz (which I have)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they don't know what they are talking about
i took mine to the dealer for soft top adjustment (have heavy windnoise) and they said that noise was that my diff was bad

by they way still have the wind noise even after they "adjusted" the latches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they don't know what they are talking about
i took mine to the dealer for soft top adjustment (have heavy windnoise) and they said that noise was that my diff was bad

by they way still have the wind noise even after they "adjusted" the latches </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's not that much adjustment room in the latches. Get some new, unworn catchers.