Well i just got a skunk2 intake manifold and TB installed....when i start my car the idle is fine, but after driving it for a while..the idle surges up and down from 1000 to 1500 rpm when I push in the clutch or stop.....and my check engine light is on now...the car run great other wise and i can feel the diff....the tech who installed it said that the throttle body and mani didnt use 1 or two sensors...is the idle and check engine light normal? if so how could i get it fixed

parts that are on the motor....DC headers, AEM intake, upgrade spark plugs and wires, new cat and exhaust, skunk 2 mani and TB

 

You didn't bother to read any of the threads concerning this manifold did you ?

Idle surging is due to the FITV no longer being in place.
the CEL is probably from the fact the EGR is now gone.


These mods are absolutely pointless on a stock car. Congrats on blowing some money and helping your car run nice and lean.

 

Okay so is there a way to fix the idle surging or not??? and what fuel solution should i get to for a proper air fuel ratio....

 

hondata with a p28

 

so the hondata p28 will solve the proplem with the idle surge and check engine light?? or just the air fuel ratio???

 

i did not have surging idle due to the IM install.

What i found was the TB stuck, and through adjusting the throttle cable you either got sticking TB or a higher idle.

This i have since found remedy for and will address.

surging idle can be due to a leak. i would find what code you are throwing first check for leaks and work from there

 

Alright where can i go or what can use to check this problem/code?....sometimes the idle would bounce up and down from hitting the break or just form sitting there....and when i start it it doesnt do it untill its driven for a while.....


Did you get check engine light when you got a new mani/TB??
If it is the TB i should adust so it idles high or .....not sure what you mean???

 

go to your local autozone and first have them scan your computer with an obd2 scanner its afree service, i'll give you a better idea of whats going on.

 

The idle surging when the car is warm is due to the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. FITV. My guess is your new throttle body does not have a location to install the stock one.

The other is due to the fact that your EGR, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve is no longer in place due to the skunk IM.

This manifold has actually been proven to LOSE power even on big motor builds with huge cams etc... The plenum volume is just to large for a NA setup. You are better off port matching the stock IM or switching to a Euro R that is also port matched. Again, the IM should be the LEAST of your worries on stock friggin car with DC headers. I say sell all the parts that you have purchased, save up for a good header,exhaust and a good way to tune said mods being hondata or chrome and finding a knowledgeable tuner.. Ive seen people with the stock IM port matched hit 500 whp in turbo applications and 210+ NA.

You are probably going to continue to blow your cash so everything ive typed thus far is a waste of time.

 

Okay well im gonna go to autozone tonight and see if its a leek or something else........ but if it is the two sensors that arent connected will hondata fix my problem??

 

LOL

Just get some skunk2 stickers, you'll be good to go

 

i like how you're all being dicks to him.. wow.. way to let him be himself.

just get a p28, hondata, and get a tune.. it'll run fine.

 

the tune is not what is making the idle surge

so no, it wont run fine

I think we're all giving good advice, sell that POS manifold and get one that actually makes power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This manifold has actually been proven to LOSE power even on big motor builds with huge cams etc... The plenum volume is just to large for a NA setup. You are better off port matching the stock IM or switching to a Euro R that is also port matched. Again, the IM should be the LEAST of your worries on stock friggin car with DC headers. I say sell all the parts that you have purchased, save up for a good header,exhaust and a good way to tune said mods being hondata or chrome and finding a knowledgeable tuner.. Ive seen people with the stock IM port matched hit 500 whp in turbo applications and 210+ NA.

You are probably going to continue to blow your cash so everything ive typed thus far is a waste of time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It also has been proven to make power. I am running the skunk IM, did the install myself and i gained power. I have stock internals on an NA build with bolt ons.

IMHO it's not a waste of money.

 

Really? Did you ?

Lets see that dyno. Did you dyno each mod individually? Also, what did you use to tune it ? Who tuned it ? What other bolt ons ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You didn't bother to read any of the threads concerning this manifold did you ?

Idle surging is due to the FITV no longer being in place.
the CEL is probably from the fact the EGR is now gone.


These mods are absolutely pointless on a stock car. Congrats on blowing some money and helping your car run nice and lean.</TD></TR></TABLE>


x2

I would also like to see the dyno of you making power with stock internals and that manifold. It really isnt any match with the junk2 manifold tuned to an untuned stock manifold, if you tune your stock manifold you would probably make more power. It is not an IMO statement, it does suck **** for a stock NA motor w/ bolt ons, after reading some other posts here it is my opinion that the skunk2 manifold is too large for an NA motor. Forced induction is a different story.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A4Me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay so is there a way to fix the idle surging or not??? and what fuel solution should i get to for a proper air fuel ratio....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, simple go back to the stock manifold. that will fix your a/f ratio and might solve your vacume leak.

A word to the not so wise, research, research, research, then think about buying.


Modified by Chuckles99SH at 8:52 AM 12/15/2006

 

here is the thread i posted.

http://www.preludeaustralia.co...skunk

I have done all bolt ons, running hondata. The resultant dynos show fully tuned before skunk IM added, and fully tuned after skunk IM added.

the engine is h22a1, SMSP header, AEM CAI, custom 2.5" catback.

 

i have run without the FITV for years and the surging idle is NOT caused by it not being there. i will bet there are bubbles in your coolant or a vacuum leak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtirozguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the thread i posted.

http://www.preludeaustralia.co...skunk

I have done all bolt ons, running hondata. The resultant dynos show fully tuned before skunk IM added, and fully tuned after skunk IM added.

the engine is h22a1, SMSP header, AEM CAI, custom 2.5" catback.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

might want to repost since you need a membership to see that forum

 

What type of fuel were you running while tuning ? What type of fuel setup do you have? at what elevation ? Also, is this a JDM spec h22 ? And i see this is the Pro manifold you speak of and not the first version they put out.

I had the first version manifold installed on my H22 with a prospeed header, JUN3 cams, 2.5inch catless exhaust, 12.1 lb flywheel, with 16" 11lb Volk CE28N's, and it lost power. This was also tuned on stock USDM compression with 91 octane fuel and with no change what so ever to the fuel system other then a FPR and gauge.

Here is his graph






Modified by 98TypeSH at 10:07 AM 12/15/2006

 

his graph shows that he gained power from beginning to end. Which is pretty unbelievable that the manifold itself did that.

 

what does that translate into whp? (what the conversion from kw to whp?)

 

184.52 is his tuned hp.

170.89 was his starting.

its kw x 1.341


i fucked up the math.

why do your dyno sheet pics say 2001 on them ?


Modified by 98TypeSH at 10:31 AM 12/15/2006


Modified by 98TypeSH at 10:31 AM 12/15/2006

 

the 2001 is his camera being set to the wrong date. you can see at the bottom of the dyno sheet in the small print the "printed 09-Nov-2006".

 

^^
That copy right says 2006 on the bottom off the page