Update on my 2.0L All Motor Build (caution 56K death big pix)
Well - I've been away for a little while mainly because I've been really busy running my 3 orthodontic offices - which has given me precious little time to pay any attention to my track ***** aka "Baby".
Last spring the engine just plain wore out due to less than ideal tuning when I first did a bore-out (summer 2003) and running very high compression on street gas (12.6:1). This resulted in ovalling of the cylinders, oil consumption and piston slap.
This summer I started a rebuild which involved Darton sleeves, 84.5 mm Wiseco pistons, new rods, new valvetrain, full headjob, rebalancing the rotating assembly etc etc etc. Basically building it as crazy strong as possible so I can thrash the **** out of it at the track and also make more torque.
The rebuild took longer than I thought (sending the motor to Toronto from Vancouver for the machining and assembly played a major part in that)- but I was so busy with other things - it really didn't matter much - but I hardly drove the car at all.
The last piece of the puzzle arrived in the mail two weeks ago:

I was thinking of going to an ITB setup - but was worried about excessive noise (most of the tracks around me now have dB limits) and I really didn't want to ditch my Mugen intake either. So I decided to get the Import Builders CNC'd manifold which promises better flow while allowing me to retain my current intake setup.
Jeff at IB gets a
from me for prompt service. The piece is really light and well machined (see below)


Here's a detail of the inside where you can see the machining:

Here's the unit installed with the Outlaw Engineering gasket kit. Those are RC 310 injectors btw.

Shot of the entire engine bay in my SEVEN year old track car

New rad with dual rad fans. Clearance to Hytech header is minimal but doesn't quite touch...

Shot of the inside of my ride: OMP steering wheel, OMP steering wheel extender, Roadrace shifter and Mugen pedals.

And a pic of my modified 6-point OMP roll cage - jeez I should paint that....looks like crap in the pics. The seats are carbon/Kevlar OMP Grips with OMP harnesses.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now all I have to do is break in the motor a little more (I did the Motoman break in technique during the first 500 km this time -- breaking it in slow is gay and doesn't do **** in my opinion).
Tuning will start at the end of the month then I will try to break in the motor some more to loosen her up (right now she's tight as a witch's you know what). Then I'll go for a full day tuning session at the dyno for all out powa
Hoping for 230 whp and 150 tq...... we will see and I'll keep you guys posted.
Long live the Type RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Now I have to go back to work.... fugg
p.s. pics were taken with a Nikon D200 and 18-200 VR Zoom lens. Best camera eVaR!
Last spring the engine just plain wore out due to less than ideal tuning when I first did a bore-out (summer 2003) and running very high compression on street gas (12.6:1). This resulted in ovalling of the cylinders, oil consumption and piston slap.
This summer I started a rebuild which involved Darton sleeves, 84.5 mm Wiseco pistons, new rods, new valvetrain, full headjob, rebalancing the rotating assembly etc etc etc. Basically building it as crazy strong as possible so I can thrash the **** out of it at the track and also make more torque.
The rebuild took longer than I thought (sending the motor to Toronto from Vancouver for the machining and assembly played a major part in that)- but I was so busy with other things - it really didn't matter much - but I hardly drove the car at all.
The last piece of the puzzle arrived in the mail two weeks ago:

I was thinking of going to an ITB setup - but was worried about excessive noise (most of the tracks around me now have dB limits) and I really didn't want to ditch my Mugen intake either. So I decided to get the Import Builders CNC'd manifold which promises better flow while allowing me to retain my current intake setup.
Jeff at IB gets a
from me for prompt service. The piece is really light and well machined (see below)

Here's a detail of the inside where you can see the machining:

Here's the unit installed with the Outlaw Engineering gasket kit. Those are RC 310 injectors btw.

Shot of the entire engine bay in my SEVEN year old track car

New rad with dual rad fans. Clearance to Hytech header is minimal but doesn't quite touch...

Shot of the inside of my ride: OMP steering wheel, OMP steering wheel extender, Roadrace shifter and Mugen pedals.

And a pic of my modified 6-point OMP roll cage - jeez I should paint that....looks like crap in the pics. The seats are carbon/Kevlar OMP Grips with OMP harnesses.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now all I have to do is break in the motor a little more (I did the Motoman break in technique during the first 500 km this time -- breaking it in slow is gay and doesn't do **** in my opinion).
Tuning will start at the end of the month then I will try to break in the motor some more to loosen her up (right now she's tight as a witch's you know what). Then I'll go for a full day tuning session at the dyno for all out powa
Hoping for 230 whp and 150 tq...... we will see and I'll keep you guys posted.
Long live the Type RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Now I have to go back to work.... fugg
p.s. pics were taken with a Nikon D200 and 18-200 VR Zoom lens. Best camera eVaR!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
New rad with dual rad fans. Clearance to Hytech header is minimal but doesn't quite touch...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that a FAL #225 dual fan kit you have there?? I'm thinking about getting that very same Koyo rad/fan combo myself for my ITR. How is the two fans wired up, I'm asking because according to FAL the second fan is plugged into the harness for the AC fan, and is only switched on when AC is used. I had AC on my car, but it has been removed so I'd have to wire it up differently I think to get both fans to work together.
New rad with dual rad fans. Clearance to Hytech header is minimal but doesn't quite touch...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that a FAL #225 dual fan kit you have there?? I'm thinking about getting that very same Koyo rad/fan combo myself for my ITR. How is the two fans wired up, I'm asking because according to FAL the second fan is plugged into the harness for the AC fan, and is only switched on when AC is used. I had AC on my car, but it has been removed so I'd have to wire it up differently I think to get both fans to work together.
But have you tried to drive a car with one of those shifters? I have the Fastline Performance shifter myself and it's much better than OEM, getting the **** that close to the steering wheel is a brilliant idea. And it retains close to stock shifter trow as well. I admit it looks a bit funky, but function> fashion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But have you tried to drive a car with one of those shifters? I have the Fastline Performance shifter myself and it's much better than OEM, getting the **** that close to the steering wheel is a brilliant idea. And it retains close to stock shifter trow as well. I admit it looks a bit funky, but function> fashion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a simple manner of physics that its not going to be anywhere near stock shift throw, the MUCH longer distance of that lever whilst having to move the same angle means a longer throw. unless it fiddles with the way everything is underneath the gaitor too.
its obviously going to be drivers preference as to what you feel is best. but i LOVE the stock one, it'd be a shame to ruin it as its so well balanced and has great feel from the factory
IMO its a gimmick, but if you're happy with it dude, then my opinion is irrelevant, and carry on enjoying
its a simple manner of physics that its not going to be anywhere near stock shift throw, the MUCH longer distance of that lever whilst having to move the same angle means a longer throw. unless it fiddles with the way everything is underneath the gaitor too.
its obviously going to be drivers preference as to what you feel is best. but i LOVE the stock one, it'd be a shame to ruin it as its so well balanced and has great feel from the factory
IMO its a gimmick, but if you're happy with it dude, then my opinion is irrelevant, and carry on enjoying
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks excellent man. I've always loved your car.
which OMP wheel is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMP Quadro wheel in leather. Mines an older one (about 4 years old). The newer ones are a little more "ricey"
http://www.ompracing.it/detail...%2004
I liked the flat bottom - also available in suede (but unless you are prepared to wear gloves everyday the suede will get a shine from the oil from your hands and I do not recommend it).
The shop that works on my car is a distributor for OMP (Officina Mechanica Percivale) products....
Hey if it's good enough for this guy:
which OMP wheel is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMP Quadro wheel in leather. Mines an older one (about 4 years old). The newer ones are a little more "ricey"
http://www.ompracing.it/detail...%2004
I liked the flat bottom - also available in suede (but unless you are prepared to wear gloves everyday the suede will get a shine from the oil from your hands and I do not recommend it).
The shop that works on my car is a distributor for OMP (Officina Mechanica Percivale) products....
Hey if it's good enough for this guy:




Drinker
.