I just picked up the ASR subframe brace and 22mm ITR rear sway bar kit from weaksauce ( ) but it never came with lower endlink nuts/bolts. I have a couple questions though... I mocked my whole setup together to see how everything will sit and it seems like the ends of the sway bar are almost pushed in a big so they're parallel to eachother (or perpendicular to the LCA). Maybe this will be fixed when it's installed on the car and it's just an illusion?

But anyway, the kit came with two washers which are the correct size for the lower endlink bolt, but it seems like there should be more.

1. How should the setup be for the connection?

>>I'm guessing: bolt :: washer :: endlink :: washer :: LCA :: washer :: nut? or would I not need a washer between the endlink and the LCA?

2. What should I do to fill in the gap between the endlink and LCA? or will it close up when on the car?





*Note: the existing bolt I have in there is just to keep things line up*

 

+1

 

anybody?

 

We've got your answer!


Modified by weaksauce.org at 2:53 PM 12/13/2006

 

Hello SoCal EJ1,

It seems that you will need to space out the lower part of the endlink away from the LCA. This needs to be done so the endlink will be close to vertical when installed in the vehicle at normal ride height.

You can order a pair of stainless steel conical spacer from ASR or their dealers or get a stack of washers from the hardware store. Either method will solve your problem. Hope this helps!

weaksauce

 

Alright cool, thanks. Is there a specific type of bolt/nut combo I should use? or can I just go to my local hardware store and pick up something?

 

You can get regular 3/8 X 1.5 (or 2.0) in fine thread bolt grade 5 or 8 with a nylon lock nut. If you want to go metric you can get M10 X 1.25 pitch and 55mm L grade 8.8 with a nylon lock nut.

 

Thanks a lot man, I appreciate the help.

 

if youre usin that setup on an ek, that itr endlink wont work, will not even line up. you will need the usdm Si endlinks. on an eg...im not sure, i guess it should work. the reason the endlink stud goes so far through the control arm is because the oem ITR arm is way fatter than your aftermarket usdm replica. hope that helps.
im waiting for my asr kit to come in this monday. im running blox endlinks. and picking up the itr bar straight from acura. only 65 bux.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if youre usin that setup on an ek, that itr endlink wont work, will not even line up. you will need the usdm Si endlinks. on an eg...im not sure, i guess it should work. the reason the endlink stud goes so far through the control arm is because the oem ITR arm is way fatter than your aftermarket usdm replica. hope that helps.
im waiting for my asr kit to come in this monday. im running blox endlinks. and picking up the itr bar straight from acura. only 65 bux. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't even think of that, but I think that's why. I've gotta pick up washers to solve that and I'll be good.

 

The reason the bolt didn't come with a nut is because OEM EG/DC LCAs have threaded holes in them.

From what i can tell, your putting all these parts on an EG civic and you have the EG ASR kit. Your problem stems from your shitty aftermarket LCAs. They are designed WRONG for your car. The sway-bar mounting hole is in the wrong place and that is gonna end up costing you even more money for no performance gains. OEM LCAs have a threaded hole at the top of the control arm that is already spaced towards the front of the vehicle. This makes the end-link verticle, and also makes the torque arm of the sway-bar perpendicular to the end-link.

The only way you could get those LCAs to work, is by getting the 99-00 end-links and combining them with special spacers that come in ASR's "EK" kit to adapt the EK end-links to the BIG HOLE at the end of the ITR sway-bar...

Here is a pic (you need the 4 bushings in the right corner):


PS: Did I mention I hate aftermarket LCAs. Just get some stock Integra ones with the proper holes in 'em and use the end-links you already have (#15/17 in pic below)..

 

The LCAs only cost me an extra $6, which is a tad bit cheaper than used integra LCAs with new bushings, so I'm not complaining. I'm not really worried about investing $5 more dollars in two nuts, two bolts, and 6-10 washers. ASR already helped me out, and I'm sure they wouldn't sell me a product specifically designed for my car if it didn't or couldn't work flawlessly. I'm gonna stick with the ITR endlinks because they're a lot beefier than the thin 99-00 SI endlinks.

 

Are you saying ASR sold you those LCAs?

 

yea..spacing them out with washers is a decent idea but they will still be preloading the suspension because they are not length adjustable..i learned this the hard way by buying new oem endlinks and then immediately replacing them with some function 7's which arent a bad deal at 50 bucks

 

I just wanted to point out to everyone that these end-links arn't ITR specific. Honda uses the same part on all EG Civcs, Del Sols, and DC Integras...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying ASR sold you those LCAs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, but everything purchased for my car is designed to meet/exceed oem specs, I don't foresee any issues.


If you don't like the products I bought, give yourself a pat on the back for not owning them. I asked a question that's already been answered... I didn't see any need for you to even post in the first place, nor do I see a need for this thread to still exist.

 

sorry to jack thread, basically i have a jdm eg6, iv got d2 lca's, but after reading this thread will I have the same problem? Or does this only apply to the ek lca's?

 

read it carefully and you will find the answer.

 

I'm assuming that on an EG it should be fine, but im still wondering If I will have problems with the d2 lca's and rear endlinks.

p.s. post something useful in the thread, if not then dont.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming that on an EG it should be fine, but im still wondering If I will have problems with the d2 lca's and rear endlinks.

p.s. post something useful in the thread, if not then dont.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if that comment was directed towards me...thats real funny, because i actually poster THE MOST useful thing in this thread, which i was telling you to look for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't like the products I bought, give yourself a pat on the back for not owning them....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to do that...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to jack thread, basically i have a jdm eg6, iv got d2 lca's, but after reading this thread will I have the same problem? Or does this only apply to the ek lca's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The original poster owns an EG, and all the stuff shown applies to you & your car...

 

i see, but question is are the d2 lca's same as the blox

 

yeah... Almost all aftermarket LCAs look just like the ones pictured. They were originally designed wrong because these companies decided to cut corners & rip people off. Then other rip-off companies copied this flawed design because it was selling.

Since you should have your LCAs in your hand, simply compare them to the ones in the photos above. If the sway-bar attachment hole is of a similar design, it's safe to assume you will have the EXACT same problem...

 

Now I have a question about the sway bar itself...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I have a question about the sway bar itself...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

most all OE sway bars i've seen curve in like that, some moreso slightly than others.