i was considering getting cams and cam gears for my 1st gen b16 i was wondering if yous can help me choose the best cams, gears, valve springs and retainers, what combination of thsoe things works best together?

 

YARG NO SUCH THING AS BEST OMG STOP BAD NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

honestly, you have to give a ton of info to help us pick a cam set for you, like what is the car for is smog an issue, how much money whats your whole setup.

so yea can't help you man.

 

i live on a mtn there is no smog concerns, right now it has ehaders and intake spoon sports ecu , other then that stuff its stock i just wnat to have fun with it and bake the tires maybe do a few drags againt my moms husband, but the car is still pretty much an everyday driver..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdxb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i live on a mtn there is no smog concerns, right now it has ehaders and intake spoon sports ecu , other then that stuff its stock i just wnat to have fun with it and bake the tires maybe do a few drags againt my moms husband, but the car is still pretty much an everyday driver..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Header.
Do you have a authentic spoon ECU or a "Spoon Chip"?
This may sound stupid, but wouldn't your moms husband=your father or stepfather??

It sounds like you just want a mild cam setup. There are several options, but again it depends on your real goals and expectations.

 

yea sry im a poor typist, i beileve it is authenic because it says spoon sports on the ecu and has a lable saying warranty is voided if broke? so i beilieve its is authentic.. yea he would = stepfather but was never a father figure to me so i don't refer to him as that. as of rigth now its an everyday driver at the end of this summer its going to be strictly project car(getting a another car for everyday use). i wouldn't mind having a wild cam but i would want to still have decent gas milage, and for it to still be reliable. also i dont want to have to be putting in high octane gas rigth now i run 87. i wouldnt be upset if i had to go to 89 but i dont it to require 93 due to price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdxb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea sry im a poor typist, i beileve it is authenic because it says spoon sports on the ecu and has a lable saying warranty is voided if broke? .</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds Authentic

 

are you joking ? the b16 has over 10.1:1 compression ratio and you have an ecu that advances timing like a mother fu$$$ and you're running 87 octane..? do yourself a favor and learn about engines/ecu's before you take apart the damn thing and screw it up...

 

well im not a mechanic and i know some things but there is a whole lot more i do not know, that is esentialy why im on here to learn. i want to learn from you guys and figure out how things work so inform me and tell me what i should do? and why that i should do it. do you think i should run a higher octane gas? im not dumb and im willing to learn everything / anything.

 

it's good to hear you want to learn..

right from honda they recomend premium only gas because of the high compression ratio of the b16 motor...luckily the engine has a knock sensor on it so if it detonates or "pings" from crap gas or other reasons the knock sensor sends a signal back to the ecu and the ecu retards the ignition timing to stop the detonation and keep your engine from blowing up...but you will loose performance when this happens and the engine will fell sluggish..

1st thing you want to do is start running atleast 91 octane,,then make sure everything is in perfect working order with the engine...belts,tensioners,etc..not really much to check out with a honda ..if everything is in order then you can start planning ,1st thing to do is set a WHP goal,and obviously have a budget....what are you looking for? the spoon ecu you have is already a good start assuming its the real deal...

 

ok, wow i did the swap my self but really wasn't intune with my car i guess, im going to put 93 in soon as i go to the gas station(all they have around me). the car runs good so it shouldn't ba a problem right? im not sure what a safe wheel horse power goal is how many wheel horse power do you think it has with my motor and mods. , also subtract a/c and power steering. budget say $800 at most? also i figured i should emntion i am possibly considering a tubro maybe mid sumemr or fall. would that be a good move i wanna keep the car loking baisically stock. And i wanan just have a little sleeper crx.

 

also how hard would it be to take the head off and replace the valves, springs, and cams? what all does it involve?

 

for willingness to learn.

I didn't even read the last sentence before, but Mr. Speaker is dead on. If at all possible keep the higher octane in the car.

If you are looking to turbo the car soon, I would not put any money in cams yet. You can turbo the motor on stock cams and be perfectly fine, just put that money towards something else.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdxb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also how hard would it be to take the head off and replace the valves, springs, and cams? what all does it involve?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do not have to remove the head to replace the springs and retainers.

 

ok thanks but my worst nightamre came true today, i was driving and my car sputtered real bad shook, and shut off.. a local garage says my timing belt tensioner broke or let loose and the tming belt jumped and bent both intake valves on the #2 cylinder. they also were not sure but there is a possibility that the vavles may have cracked the piston. now im in a dilema what should i do replace the whole head or shuld i try and rip it down and fix it myself. the garage told me they will not get into it cause they cant get info on the motor so they dont want to get involved in it. pelase some one help!! im not a mechnanic so suggestion and help on how to handle this would be awsome.. thanks in advance( kinda ironic i made this thread and this happens i rellay have **** luck.)

 

What did they do when they diagnosed your problem? (How did they come to that answer)

 

im not really sure they said the belt was off and they could see oil in the cylinder they also said they could her the valves hitting the piston.. what do you think i sould do try and rip it down and make sure the pistons arn't cracked? also remebr i have never taken a head off or put one on so this is all going to be new to me..

 

How To Remove the Head...
turn the crank to TDC
1. Remove the VC
2. Remove the cam caps
3. tap the holders to loosen and remove them
4. Loosen the T belt and slide it off the cams
5. Remove the dizzy and cams
5. Disconnect the intake, label all the attached sensors and hoses, lay them all to the side
6. Disconnect the header from the head
7.Remove the cam bolts and pull the head off.
^^The basics from memory

 

ok i think im going to attempt it when the car gets towed back to my house im going to dig in and take off the head just so i can inspect everything and see what the final outcome/damage is and what im really up against.. sound good to you?

 

ok well since im going to go threw all this to fix the head i want to upgrade the valves to high compression valves, also i would like to upgarde the springs and reatiners also. is there anyway i can do that while using the stock cams and then upgrade the cams later when i have more cash..

 

if you want to take off the head and take apart things get yourself a helms manual or download a factory workshop manual for the crx with vtec supplement..it's all over the internet for free..

about upgrading the valvetrain..there's alot of options....how much whp you want to make? are you ever going to go turbo? how high do you want to rev?

 

im starting to think scrap the turbo idea i just want to make it bad *** all motor n/a, since im stuck for money and tubrbo would cost more , i wanna do everything i can to the head while i have it apart. i want to revhigh and make some power(i want have fun with it) but i want it to rev safely i dont wann ruin anything again, what if i decide to go to high compresion valves. what else will i have to do will it be able to a higher compression? i found this manual on the net seems to be real helpful- http://www.carenthusiast.com/c...t.pdf

 

ok good new and bad new, first the good i didnt bend any valves only 1 intake valve on the #2 cylinder was stuck open a round mettal ring/object was holding it open. the bad news is i believ im going to need machine work cause the object nicked-up and put marks in the mateing surface of the valve. also i was wondering where could this object have came from? it is a complete ring so i do not believe it is part of the valve guide im going to try and post pictures for you's to see. also no cracked pistons!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right from honda they recomend premium only gas because of the high compression ratio of the b16 motor...luckily the engine has a knock sensor

but you will loose performance when this happens and the engine will fell sluggish</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just how loose will the power be?

I wasn't aware 1st gen B16's had knock sensors. How do you know honda reccomended premium fuel for that generation motor, did you live in japan, or is this generalized assumptions? I owned 2 1991 civic's, both with 1st gen B16's. They both ran 14.6-14.7 on 87 and didn't improve with 93, and never got any knock with 87. 10:1 compression ratio isn't that high. I know a few engines with that compression ratio that run on 87 from the factory.
For the most power you want to use the lowest octane fuel you can that won't cause detonation (knock).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you joking ? the b16 has over 10.1:1 compression ratio</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where are you obtaing your information? The 1st gen B16 had 10:1 and the second gen B16 and the usdm B16A2 (99-00 Si) and B16A3 (del sol) had 10.2:1


Modified by Lynx Bus Type R at 4:03 AM 12/16/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How To Remove the Head...
turn the crank to TDC
1. Remove the VC
2. Remove the cam caps
3. tap the holders to loosen and remove them
4. Loosen the T belt and slide it off the cams
5. Remove the dizzy and cams
5. Disconnect the intake, label all the attached sensors and hoses, lay them all to the side
6. Disconnect the header from the head
7.Remove the cam bolts and pull the head off.
^^The basics from memory</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty good, but the head bolts do have a particular order and method to remove them otherwise damage to the head can occur.

 

uh oh.. really? what the order for taking the head off i took mine off yestertday not aware that it must eb done in a particualr order, i know when it goes back toghether they need to be torq.'d in a speacial order but i wasnt aware they had to come off in a particualr order?

 

Yeah theres a special order for it cause the head is aluminum,,they can warp if you dont tighten or loosen the bolts in the correct order,,thats what you need a manual for..

"Lynx Bus Type R"

if you werent even aware that the 1st gen b16 uses knock sensor than that right there shows your knowledge about the motor..and what the hell are you talking about 10 compression ratio isnt high? you people using 87 octane are nuts..and lucky you have a knock sensor..