Car won't idle/fuel pressure problem?
Hey all,
As some of you may know, I am just finishing up a turbo build and am having big issues. To begin with, the car will not stay running unless my fuel pump is off and my fuel pressure regulator is unplugged, otherwise if its plugged in and the pump is on, it will run for a couple seconds then flood out. I am getting air fuel and spark I know, but I'm still confused.
Can I get spark still and my ignitor be bad? Cause I figured that might be a possibility. I have a aem fuel pressure regulator in the works so we'll see if that helps. But any ideas otherwise? I've been searching and have only found a couple helpful hints. Thanks in advance guys....
Max
As some of you may know, I am just finishing up a turbo build and am having big issues. To begin with, the car will not stay running unless my fuel pump is off and my fuel pressure regulator is unplugged, otherwise if its plugged in and the pump is on, it will run for a couple seconds then flood out. I am getting air fuel and spark I know, but I'm still confused.
Can I get spark still and my ignitor be bad? Cause I figured that might be a possibility. I have a aem fuel pressure regulator in the works so we'll see if that helps. But any ideas otherwise? I've been searching and have only found a couple helpful hints. Thanks in advance guys....
Max
dude, how do you expect a peuny 255lph fuel pump to run 1000cc injectors??....ive seen gys with some pretty impressive turbos and they run 850cc....try runnin lower cc fuel injectors and see how that works out
Its not the injectors, I can assure you that, even though I expect them to run rich at idle and what not, the pump should be fine for it....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And what kind of EMS are you using? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hondata s300. Tryin' to get it running for break in so I can have Anthony (precisionh23a) tune it for me...
max
Hondata s300. Tryin' to get it running for break in so I can have Anthony (precisionh23a) tune it for me...
max
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxvtec7500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata s300. Tryin' to get it running for break in so I can have Anthony (precisionh23a) tune it for me...
max</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have it programed for 1000cc injectors?
max</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have it programed for 1000cc injectors?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have it programed for 1000cc injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, and Anthony also told me to try the stock map and adjusting fuel trim starting with 600cc injectors and slowly moving up, thats the only way its running right now is with the stock map with trimmed fuel for 600cc injectors...Still very puzzled.. Thanks for everyones input thus far though
Max
Yes, and Anthony also told me to try the stock map and adjusting fuel trim starting with 600cc injectors and slowly moving up, thats the only way its running right now is with the stock map with trimmed fuel for 600cc injectors...Still very puzzled.. Thanks for everyones input thus far though
Max
Just an update, I believe I have found my problem, I think that I flooded my motor, which would explain why the car only runs when the fuel pump is off and can only rev up to 3k before it leans out. Since the motor has a built bottom end, when everything was put back together and I was troubleshooting it since it wouldn't start, the fuel pump primed many times just dumping fuel into the chambers, and now that it runs, I have straight unburned fuel coming out my exhaust. So what I'm going to do is pull all my plugs, drop a small amount of oil into each cylinder to seat the rings, let the fuel clear/dry out, and try this all over again. let me know what ya'll think and if you have any more suggestions!
Max
Max
Well, an update on the car, I flushed all the gas out and placed some oil in each cylinder, the car will now run with the fuel pump on, which is progress. However, I still cannot rev past 2k and there was some faint white smoke coming from my breather valve on the valve cover, leading me to possibly believe that my headgasket is blown, but hopefully not, cause this is a fresh rebuild, however I may have personally screwed up putting on the head, but I thought I torqued them down correctly and everything.
However, another question I had was should I use a catch can setup instead of my pcv valve so I don't pressurize the crankcase? Cause that was something that I thought might have caused the smoke. And one last remark, I filled the car up with coolant and went to bleed the system while the car was running but it was bone dry after running for 5minutes, no coolant whatsoever. Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Max
However, another question I had was should I use a catch can setup instead of my pcv valve so I don't pressurize the crankcase? Cause that was something that I thought might have caused the smoke. And one last remark, I filled the car up with coolant and went to bleed the system while the car was running but it was bone dry after running for 5minutes, no coolant whatsoever. Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Max
Max, what is the map sensor setup? GM 3-bar?
Faint white smoke coming out of the head could mean lots of stuff....how long has it run since the rebuild? Sometimes they smoke right after the rebuild....
I don't know enough about the turbo stuff to say what you should use for a catch can, but I do know that pcv valves are one-way valves, and positive pressure will not enter the engine thru them.
Do this to bleed coolant.
Fill it up till you can't put any more in the radiator.
Lightly squeeze the hoses to work out the bubbles in them and if the coolant goes down a bunch keep topping it off
Start the car with the radiator cap off
The coolant should go down almost immediately, but run it for a while. Watch it carefully bc as soon as the thermostat starts to open the coolant will rise. Put the cap on then and let the car cycle the fans twice.
Shut it off and let it cool completely
Once its fully cool, take the cap off and top it off.
Put the cap back on, start the car, open the bleeder valve, use a vacuum tube and a cup so you don't make a mess with the coolant.
Leave it open until the fans cycle once (the thermo is open) and the coolant is a steady stream.
Then close her up, and just check it in the morning the next day.
If its a fresh block build too (I don't remember) you may have to do the cap off deal again after the thermo has opened and cycled a few times....
Good luck w/it
Faint white smoke coming out of the head could mean lots of stuff....how long has it run since the rebuild? Sometimes they smoke right after the rebuild....
I don't know enough about the turbo stuff to say what you should use for a catch can, but I do know that pcv valves are one-way valves, and positive pressure will not enter the engine thru them.
Do this to bleed coolant.
Fill it up till you can't put any more in the radiator.
Lightly squeeze the hoses to work out the bubbles in them and if the coolant goes down a bunch keep topping it off
Start the car with the radiator cap off
The coolant should go down almost immediately, but run it for a while. Watch it carefully bc as soon as the thermostat starts to open the coolant will rise. Put the cap on then and let the car cycle the fans twice.
Shut it off and let it cool completely
Once its fully cool, take the cap off and top it off.
Put the cap back on, start the car, open the bleeder valve, use a vacuum tube and a cup so you don't make a mess with the coolant.
Leave it open until the fans cycle once (the thermo is open) and the coolant is a steady stream.
Then close her up, and just check it in the morning the next day.
If its a fresh block build too (I don't remember) you may have to do the cap off deal again after the thermo has opened and cycled a few times....
Good luck w/it
Matt,
Yes the motor is a fresh rebuild, and its a gm3-bar and I am worried about the pcv valve, however I also have come to believe that the smoke is from it being a fresh rebuild. Secondly with the coolant, I actually took the thermostat out of the housing and just let the car run so coolant went into all of the wells and whatnot. The car ran fine for the first 5 minutes and revved perfectly as it should WITHOUT the top charge pipe. But after connecting that pipe and driving the car around the driveway in first gear for a minute, the car wouldn't rev past 1krpm. Puzzling me once more....
Thanks thus far guys, the problem is lessening, however still there but hopefully it won't take much longer. I'M STUMPED!!
Max
Yes the motor is a fresh rebuild, and its a gm3-bar and I am worried about the pcv valve, however I also have come to believe that the smoke is from it being a fresh rebuild. Secondly with the coolant, I actually took the thermostat out of the housing and just let the car run so coolant went into all of the wells and whatnot. The car ran fine for the first 5 minutes and revved perfectly as it should WITHOUT the top charge pipe. But after connecting that pipe and driving the car around the driveway in first gear for a minute, the car wouldn't rev past 1krpm. Puzzling me once more....
Thanks thus far guys, the problem is lessening, however still there but hopefully it won't take much longer. I'M STUMPED!!
Max
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would check to make sure the map is connected correctly.
What wont let it go over 1k? is it like a bogging problem or like a rev limiter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The map seems to be loaded correctly, unless you're speaking of map sensor, and that should be connected correctly as well. However, when it revs and won't go over 1k or 2k, it just bogs, doesn't bounce like a rev-limiter or anything. I can hold the throttle at any point and the motor won't rev any further, like it just hits a wall... Let me know if that answered your question.
Max
What wont let it go over 1k? is it like a bogging problem or like a rev limiter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The map seems to be loaded correctly, unless you're speaking of map sensor, and that should be connected correctly as well. However, when it revs and won't go over 1k or 2k, it just bogs, doesn't bounce like a rev-limiter or anything. I can hold the throttle at any point and the motor won't rev any further, like it just hits a wall... Let me know if that answered your question.
Max
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxvtec7500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The map seems to be loaded correctly, unless you're speaking of map sensor, and that should be connected correctly as well. However, when it revs and won't go over 1k or 2k, it just bogs, doesn't bounce like a rev-limiter or anything. I can hold the throttle at any point and the motor won't rev any further, like it just hits a wall... Let me know if that answered your question.
Max</TD></TR></TABLE>
ehh....make it so the turbo is out of the equation and see if it will rev....
The map seems to be loaded correctly, unless you're speaking of map sensor, and that should be connected correctly as well. However, when it revs and won't go over 1k or 2k, it just bogs, doesn't bounce like a rev-limiter or anything. I can hold the throttle at any point and the motor won't rev any further, like it just hits a wall... Let me know if that answered your question.
Max</TD></TR></TABLE>
ehh....make it so the turbo is out of the equation and see if it will rev....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ehh....make it so the turbo is out of the equation and see if it will rev....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought about that, just eliminating the possible factors. And to roller3804 the plugs are gapped correctly...
Max
I thought about that, just eliminating the possible factors. And to roller3804 the plugs are gapped correctly...
Max
The only thing I would think to say is maybe try checking the grounds... That ruined me for a while... Remember matt? haha. When **** is wierd, it can normally be traced back to grounds.
John,
I have checked my grounds quite a few times, namely the starter ground(obviously works), the tranny ground, the valve cover ground, and the ecu ground on the thermostat. Are there any that I'm missing? Would a bad ground actually cause the car to run like this?
Max
I have checked my grounds quite a few times, namely the starter ground(obviously works), the tranny ground, the valve cover ground, and the ecu ground on the thermostat. Are there any that I'm missing? Would a bad ground actually cause the car to run like this?
Max
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That doesn't really sound like a ground problem, but that is always a good place to check.
The fact that it won't rev has me worried, uncork that thing and see if she purrs
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you say "uncork" you mean the turbo I assume? Well as of now the plan is to tow it out to Anthony to see if its a tuning problem, cause thats what he believes it is.... I'll keep everyone updated though. Any more suggestions welcome!
Max
The fact that it won't rev has me worried, uncork that thing and see if she purrs
</TD></TR></TABLE>When you say "uncork" you mean the turbo I assume? Well as of now the plan is to tow it out to Anthony to see if its a tuning problem, cause thats what he believes it is.... I'll keep everyone updated though. Any more suggestions welcome!
Max



