Need some help with my GSR all motor plans..
hey i am wondering if i go all motor..is it neccessary to get a new valve set or would oem do jsut fine?
my plans for my 94 gsr:
-ctr cams
-itr pistons
-skunk2 cam gears
-skunk2 valve springs
-skunk2 retainers
any other suggestions?
my plans for my 94 gsr:
-ctr cams
-itr pistons
-skunk2 cam gears
-skunk2 valve springs
-skunk2 retainers
any other suggestions?
for ctr cams i would consider getting a spring that is a little softer like omni or rm gen2. From what I've heard skunk2 springs are pretty stiff
budget is not a problem bcuz im planning on gathering all my parts as money comes in and do everything all at once. and my mechanical skills are lightweight..i know my fair share. should i gather enoughmoney to port my head and bore my block while im at it so that i wouldnt have to rip apart my block and what not a second time?
edit on plans:
-bore and hone block oversized (25mm or 50mm?)
-eagle rods
-should i go ls crank or stock gsr?
-ARP headstuds
anything else i should throw in?
-bore and hone block oversized (25mm or 50mm?)
-eagle rods
-should i go ls crank or stock gsr?
-ARP headstuds
anything else i should throw in?
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Run your stock 87 crank. If budget isn't an issue, I would run Carillo rods/Cp or Wiseco pistons on the stock sleeves for your bottom end. Have Portflow/DFE/RLZ/RM do your headwork, ported S2 or type r IM, run RM M22x cams and SL VT with a SMSP header tuned with Crome Pro/Neptune/Hondata and you're well over 200 whp and extremely reliable to <U>any</U> rpm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WASABI_DB8_INTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">budget is not a problem </TD></TR></TABLE>
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LS crank, OEM LS rods with ARP rod bolts, 81.5mm Safety PR3 (B16) pistons, CTR cams, Portflow inner valve springs, Skunk2 IM and a DC JDM 4-1 header.
Very affordable and very capable of 200-210whp with tuning
Very affordable and very capable of 200-210whp with tuning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS crank, OEM LS rods with ARP rod bolts, 81.5mm Safety PR3 (B16) pistons, CTR cams, Portflow inner valve springs, Skunk2 IM and a DC JDM 4-1 header.
Very affordable and very capable of 200-210whp with tuning</TD></TR></TABLE>
estimated price of all that?
Very affordable and very capable of 200-210whp with tuning</TD></TR></TABLE>
estimated price of all that?
hi guys... sorry i'm a newbie here...
What is the difference between the ls crank and the stock GSR?
Because i'm also doing all motor for my GSR block.. Will the LS crank give me more hp than the stock GSR?
What is the difference between the ls crank and the stock GSR?
Because i'm also doing all motor for my GSR block.. Will the LS crank give me more hp than the stock GSR?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ichikers »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the difference between the ls crank and the stock GSR? </TD></TR></TABLE>
LS crank =89mm stroke.
GSR/ITR crank=87.2mm stroke.
The LS crank will make slightly more torque and make peak power at a slightly lower RPM.
LS crank =89mm stroke.
GSR/ITR crank=87.2mm stroke.
The LS crank will make slightly more torque and make peak power at a slightly lower RPM.
If you want a low-budget engine that will work nice I would do the following for a street engine.
------
HEAD
-------
Newer ITR cams, springs, and ITR intake valves.
A good valve job from some place like portflow or similar.
-----
BLOCK
-----
ITR pistons on your rods with new ARP rod bolts.
New Oil and water pump and gaskets.
New Factory bearings and rings sized for that engine.
This is a cheap and simple setup that will last assuming you have it tuned and don't beat the dog **** out of it.
------
HEAD
-------
Newer ITR cams, springs, and ITR intake valves.
A good valve job from some place like portflow or similar.
-----
BLOCK
-----
ITR pistons on your rods with new ARP rod bolts.
New Oil and water pump and gaskets.
New Factory bearings and rings sized for that engine.
This is a cheap and simple setup that will last assuming you have it tuned and don't beat the dog **** out of it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WASABI_DB8_INTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
any other suggestions?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have to ask, you probably shouldnt be building. Please do not post advice threads. Its a waste of everyones time.
any other suggestions?
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you have to ask, you probably shouldnt be building. Please do not post advice threads. Its a waste of everyones time.
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