Did i expletive up?!?! HELP!
ok so i finally got the best of the crankshaft pulley bolt after weeks of trying and 2 air ratchets later.......... but when putting the pulley back on i may have fucked sumthin up. While tightening, the small notch that was either on the pulley itself or the crank shaft has broken off, is this thing necessary? if so should i just by a whole new crankshaft pulley?
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your talking about teh key way..or whatever its called..if you losted it..go get a new one...its a small piece of metal and u can loose it very easily if you dont keep track of where you put it..just go to honda and get a new one..im sure its not that expensive...
That keyway is 3.00$ at a the honda dealer. It is necessary for your pulley, otherwise the pulley will NOT SPIN WITH YOUR CRANKSHAFT. It is used to lock the pulley onto the crankshaft, so they turn together. If the keyway is broken, then buy a new one. If the little part that it slides into on your crankshaft is crooked, widened, damaged, watever, then you MAY need to change your crankshaft. The passage that the keyway slides into on my CRX is widened at the beginning, but it still holds the keyway in place. If your passage on your pulley is damaged, then you may still be able to put it all together. If you can get some pics up of your Pulley where the keyway slides into, and one of your crankshaft with the same little notch, i could tell you if they are too far gone and need to be replaced or if you should just buy another keyway and put it back together.
Like i said the keyway passage on my CRX's crankshaft is widened, but it still works. But if it's only your keyway that is broken, you're in luck. it's 3$ in parts.
Oh and to avoid breaking the keyway, don't use air tools... Put the handbrake on and put the car in 5th gear and tighten it VERY hard BY HAND. It's how i tightened it, and it hasn't come off in over 2 months.
Like i said the keyway passage on my CRX's crankshaft is widened, but it still works. But if it's only your keyway that is broken, you're in luck. it's 3$ in parts.
Oh and to avoid breaking the keyway, don't use air tools... Put the handbrake on and put the car in 5th gear and tighten it VERY hard BY HAND. It's how i tightened it, and it hasn't come off in over 2 months.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndrePerras »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh and to avoid breaking the keyway, don't use air tools... Put the handbrake on and put the car in 5th gear and tighten it VERY hard BY HAND. It's how i tightened it, and it hasn't come off in over 2 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
holly **** your crazy i atleast hit it with a impact to tighten it.or atleast a tq. wrech
Oh and to avoid breaking the keyway, don't use air tools... Put the handbrake on and put the car in 5th gear and tighten it VERY hard BY HAND. It's how i tightened it, and it hasn't come off in over 2 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
holly **** your crazy i atleast hit it with a impact to tighten it.or atleast a tq. wrech
ok so i went to napa auto parts and asked for a "key Way" for a honda/acura motor and the guy gave me a bar of steel which i believe he called a "key stop" bar and its about the same width and girth as the key way but i would have to cut off the access amount of steel being that its about a foot long, should this work like the regular key way or is there sumthing special about it that i need to order it from honda specifically?
What you are talking about, I believe is the key itself. A woodruff key is also a term.
What it does is their is a slot or groove in the crankshaft and their is a slot in the pully. The woodruff key goes into the slot on the crankshaft and then you align the pully so that the keyway on the pully aligns with the key and keyway on the crankshaft. The hey should be as long as the keyway on the crankshaft allows, ending at flush to the pully. The key and keyway's are what keep's the crankshaft pully in the correct position relative to the crankshaft. It is not something you want to try to not have.
The part you got at NAPA will work just fine. Just cut the part so that it is just a piece long enough to go in the keyway on the crankshaft.
When you tighten the bolt which holds the pully onto the crankshaft, make sure you get the bolt as tight as the specification call's for. The bolt tightness is what keeps the pully from moving, slipping, shifting and a whole bunch of ugly thing's.
On my car, the only way I have found that work's is to pull the cover off of the flywheel access, get a 7mm hardened bolt and put the bolt in from the engine side of the flywheel, as far as it will tighten. Then turn the engine until the bolt sit's against the side of the flywheel cover, so that your engine will not turn, when you tighten the bolt. I have to use a long breaker bar and a 2 foot long piece of 1 1/2 inch steel pipe, to get enough leverage to tighten the bolt, properly. However, having done it only as tight as the brakes would hold the car, I will be making sure it's done solidly, so I don't have to deal with a crankshaft pully coming loose, or off, which I have had to do, previously.
Good Luck! You can do it!
What it does is their is a slot or groove in the crankshaft and their is a slot in the pully. The woodruff key goes into the slot on the crankshaft and then you align the pully so that the keyway on the pully aligns with the key and keyway on the crankshaft. The hey should be as long as the keyway on the crankshaft allows, ending at flush to the pully. The key and keyway's are what keep's the crankshaft pully in the correct position relative to the crankshaft. It is not something you want to try to not have.
The part you got at NAPA will work just fine. Just cut the part so that it is just a piece long enough to go in the keyway on the crankshaft.
When you tighten the bolt which holds the pully onto the crankshaft, make sure you get the bolt as tight as the specification call's for. The bolt tightness is what keeps the pully from moving, slipping, shifting and a whole bunch of ugly thing's.
On my car, the only way I have found that work's is to pull the cover off of the flywheel access, get a 7mm hardened bolt and put the bolt in from the engine side of the flywheel, as far as it will tighten. Then turn the engine until the bolt sit's against the side of the flywheel cover, so that your engine will not turn, when you tighten the bolt. I have to use a long breaker bar and a 2 foot long piece of 1 1/2 inch steel pipe, to get enough leverage to tighten the bolt, properly. However, having done it only as tight as the brakes would hold the car, I will be making sure it's done solidly, so I don't have to deal with a crankshaft pully coming loose, or off, which I have had to do, previously.
Good Luck! You can do it!


