Just wondering what you guys think of my setup. Any suggestions. I know I need a new header, but what cams would you guys get Skunk2S2 or Skunk2P1. Also what head gasket should I use. I heard just stock OEM B20 would be just perfect, then again I had a cometic before tearing this down and it seemed to work well.

B20Z2 Block
B16A Head PR3-1
B18C1 Crank
Endyn Roller Wave Pistons 12:8:1, more like 12:5:1 since destroked with crank
Eagle Rods
Type R Dual Springs
Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves (pretty lightweight)
Currently GSR cams, but looking at the cams mentioned above for an obvious upgrade
Airmass header (I know junk)
Regular 2.5" pipe straight back
Skunk2 Intake Manifold, non ported
Cheep Ebay intake.

I am thinking with a cam upgrade and a new header, I could be looking at around the 200HP range. It does have a 55 shot of Nitrous. Speaking of which, I need to upgrade to Prelude injectors...

Before all of this, it had stock pistons, rods, crank, gsr cams, stock b16 valvetrain and on a 55 shot it dynoed 234 supposeably from the previous owner, so, I don't know what to expect. Would it even be okay to shoot the nitrous, I would have to loosen up the rings wouldn't I?

 

uh why are u changing to a gsr crank?

 

Because a rod started to say knock knock, so that is why I upgraded to forged internals. The GSR crank was the first thing I found from a local. It's out of an 01 GSR with low miles, so that's why.

 

Won't that defeat the purpose of using a LS block/LS Crank/Rod combo, for the added stroke?

 

No because I am still using a b20 block. A GSR crank will only destroke me to like a 1.95-87 litre if I am not mistaken. Besides, normal LS and B20 rods are the weekest part of the motors, and I had to upgrade them after the motor blew, and the crank was just there. I am assuming that the GSR is stronger than a B20 crank, so I wouldn't argue that. Sure, all honda cranks are built for high revs, but this gives me peace of mind.

Is this all you guys think of my setup? Why did you go with a GSR crank. I was kind of looking for cam suggestions, and dyno predictions, and quarter mile times (motor is in a custom EK hatch not stripped for drag raceing but decked out for show, but of course I'll run it).

 

I see the benifits of having a safe high reving motor better than haveing just a normal b20vtec with stock internals. My upgrades are much stronger, and will provide faster revs with just a shorter stroke.

 

I don't believe the rods are bad, but rather the rod bolts are poor. I've been told that ls rods with arp bolts are good for 8,000 rpm or alittle more. Get them shot peened with arp hardware and you should be good to go.

 

as far as cam suggestion, i would go with somthing a little aggressive with that kind of compression ratio. as far as dyno/horsepower numbers, no way to predict till you get to the dyno. just my $0.02

 

high compression+high lift cams+nitrous+stock sleeve b20 block=kaboom

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENetics1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">high compression+high lift cams+nitrous+stock sleeve b20 block=kaboom </TD></TR></TABLE>

I haven't shot nitrous on the car since I have owned it and I have full intentions of keeping it that way. The previous owner shot nitrous on the stock valvetrain and burned a valve, thus the reason for me upgrademing my valves, springs, and retainers. I was planning on doing it anyway, regardless if a valve was burned or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't believe the rods are bad, but rather the rod bolts are poor. I've been told that ls rods with arp bolts are good for 8,000 rpm or alittle more. Get them shot peened with arp hardware and you should be good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I have heard that as well, however since the motor was comeing apart anyhow, I might as well do what I plan to do so I don't have to tear it down again.

 

What cams do you suggest. I think that the buddy club 3+ or the skunk 2 pro 1's would be perfect. The Buddy Clubs would offer an exceptional number under the curve by giveing me pretty good low end torque and top end horse power, but I think the Pro 1's would help me out even more.

 

bc3+'s are pretty mild cams. if anything get the spec IV's. pro1's have a nice midrange but dont carry the power higher. rm m22xx have a great midrange without sacrificing topend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by that one doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bc3+'s are pretty mild cams. if anything get the spec IV's. pro1's have a nice midrange but dont carry the power higher. rm m22xx have a great midrange without sacrificing topend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i would look at the bc spec IV's for your build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Snook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, i would look at the bc spec IV's for your build</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was actually recommending the rm m22xx, but the bc4's are nice too.

 

Yeah, will it be okay to run agressive cams with the type r springs. From the research I have found they can only handle an 11.5mm lift. I am probably going to buy some buddy club p1 valve springs or the skunk2 springs. Which are stronger? Camwise, my brother has a type r with skunk 2 valvetrain and buddy club IV cams and it will hawl!!! The car seems as though it is has a lot of torque at low rpms which I think my larger motor would enjoy. I have decided to either go with the buddy club IV's or the Skunk2 Pro 2's or possibly Skunk2 Stage 3's. I am going to do some research and decide.

 

of your choices, go with the pro2's and their valvetrain

 

i remember watching a video of eugene from prostreet import and he said he was reving to 9,000 rpm, anybody know his setup?