OK so i put a greddy turbo on my 00 si running 8 lbs of boost and it blew up with a 100,000 miles on it i cracked a ring land and fried the piston rings.

Then i got everything put back to stock new rings pistons bearings and head gasket drove it for a 1000 miles with out beating on it at and then once i got to a 1050 i got on it once and now its smoking again out of the dip stick and valve cover the dame problem i had before PLEASE HELP THAnx i reeally desperate for cash i'm broke so the cheapest way is the way i'm going to take

THanx guys

 

bump

 

did you use stock pistons again

 

Yeah just becaue i didn't want to do anything serious with this car it was just to learn and then i buying another to build i thought it might be the stock head studs not being able to hold the pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Themouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OTHAnx i reeally desperate for cash i'm broke so the cheapest way is the way i'm going to take

THanx guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

take the turbo kit off, get a used b16a. hope you didnt pay for new pistons, coulda gone aftermarket for the same price.

 

ringlands

 

was it tuned. also do you have a breather kit

 

How long did it last the first time?


Untuned will own every time.

 

let me get this straight..

you blew you installed a turbo kit, blew the first motor then installed stocker parts again and blew it again, but your short on $?

I don't know call me what you will, but i find it hard to trust your short on $ if you have a turbo kit, and rebuild the motor already.

if you want cheap, stop turbing the car. if you want it ro be relyable with the way you treat and understand cars, stop turboing it. if you want it to be fast. get the rebuild done properly and have ot proeprly tuned, and that''s nOT cheap.

as stated, simplest way to get out of your hole is to sell your turbo setup and use the $ to get a stocker bottom end.

then before you save for a turbo, save for a set of rods and pistons, then save for an ecu and tuning then after you have that $. savce for the turbo setup. that way you know you can proerly support it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me get this straight..

you blew you installed a turbo kit, blew the first motor then installed stocker parts again and blew it again, but your short on $?

I don't know call me what you will, but i find it hard to trust your short on $ if you have a turbo kit, and rebuild the motor already.

if you want cheap, stop turbing the car. if you want it ro be relyable with the way you treat and understand cars, stop turboing it. if you want it to be fast. get the rebuild done properly and have ot proeprly tuned, and that''s nOT cheap.

as stated, simplest way to get out of your hole is to sell your turbo setup and use the $ to get a stocker bottom end.

then before you save for a turbo, save for a set of rods and pistons, then save for an ecu and tuning then after you have that $. savce for the turbo setup. that way you know you can proerly support it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some people don't have an unlimited supply of money. If he jsut rebuilt the motor, obviously he had to spend some money on it and seeing how it is the holiday season, I would lay off a bit.

I am pretty sure he has a chipped ecu and was tuned also. But I can't remember.

I would say double check with the tuner and get a good breather setup to help vent the crankcase.

 

no i don't have a breather kit and i'm short on money because i spent it all on the tune and the rebuild and etc so i just want to figure out what would be worth do if i wanted to put more money in it thanx

 

It would take ~$450 for forged pistons, $10 to get them pressed onto stock rods, $40 for rod bearings, ~$100 to bore it out (chances are your cyls were fcked up the 1st time blowing it up), and another $20 to get the tuner to pull 5 degrees out of the ENTIRE boost map. Unless you have a GT42, the power made from 8psi is not going to crack ringlands - too much timing, which causes detonation, will crack them. So for under $650 and some downtime, you'll be set for at least 300whp. $950 if you get rods will be safe past 500whp.

If your cylinder walls were not perfect after the first incident, then chances are you were getting more oil into the cylinder than you should have. Oil in the cyl creates hot spots, and hot spots+aggressive timing create detonation/preignition.


Ask yourself whats the same between the last setup and this rebuild. The tune. Tuners can expletive up, they are only human. And IMO people are running much more timing in Hondas atm than they should. Motors are also like humans - each one is slightly different from the next - some want more timing, some less. Search for the DET CAN thread, read it 100%, and you'll start to agree. If you still don't want to remove timing, ask yourself - do I want another 50-mile wonder, or do I want a 50k-mile wonder that has 10whp less?

 

 

ringlands are blown due to detonation.

 

Hey thanx HiProfile i was looking into just about everything you said but what would you suggest compression wize and how much of a bore over

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Themouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey thanx HiProfile i was looking into just about everything you said but what would you suggest compression wize and how much of a bore over </TD></TR></TABLE>

Standard practice is to go 81.5mm and around 9:1 should work well for you.

 

Bump do you guys think its definitaly the ringlands and not the pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Themouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump do you guys think its definitaly the ringlands and not the pistons
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, I'm going to answer this one. Your ringlands are the grooves in the piston where your rings go.

 

lets see, ringlands are on the pistons so um....

 

Sorry i made a mistake i meant the the rings not the pistons i know that ringlands and piston are one thing but any help or opinions are wanted thankyou

 

i thought b-series were suppose to support 300whp on a good tune for a while. Did you say yours lasted 100k? or it blew at 100k?

 

Ring's or oval shapped piston's from the first build.

 

its not blwoby from rings... its the ringlands.... they cracked

 

Yeah and there is coolant mixed with the oil thanx for the help i guess i'm just going to rebuild it with 9-1 eagle rods arp head studs bore it to 81.5 but what kind of head gasket should i go with running 9lbs i might boost it up alittle if i go lower compression are comsetice head gaskets good? thanx

 

Coolant and oil mixed?

Cracked sleeve or headgasket..

Have you even done a comp/leakdown test?