I think i will be ok with everything the only thing I am nervous about is making sure the valve does not fall. I have heard to hook up a leakdown tester and the pressure should keep the valve up. Or should I just pull the head ? I am alittle nervous because I have never done this. I have to drain the coolant from the block correct ? Also do I have to replace the head studs ? I am also nervous that when I reassemble the head that the cams are set at TDC. I believe I turn the crank so that it is at TDC according to the markings on the cam gears and then just make sure when I put the timing belt back on that I have the markings TDC...is this correct ?

 

People have been able to do this with the head on. As you said, hook up a line to the cylinder and put pressure in that cylinder(I don't know how much PSI, but I think around 125-150 is good). Make sure to plug the oil drain holes so you don't risk dropping a valve keeper down the hole.

If you've never done it before, it's a good idea to have a buddy that has to be there or get a helms manual.

Yes, it is a good idea to replace the head studs, but you can use a bolt stretch gauge to see if it's still in spec. I would suggest just using ARP head studs anyway. Yes, you would have to line up the crank and cams to TDC before you put back on the timing belt.

 

Should I drain the coolant and oil or is the amount of oil in the head not very much really and just have rags around ?

 

Coolant you might want to drain, but oil you don't have to. Just have some rags around. That's if you want to take the head off, if you're doing it with the head on, then you don't really have to do any of that.