Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM
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Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (updated after plugs)
I've had tach bouncing problems for a few months now, Last week it go worse and started misfiring (almost died a few times)
so I purchase a new ICM from Len's Shop and installed it (as per you guy's suggestions, Which I am very grateful for). I don't have the miss fires anymore, I still have a ruff idle (going to replace wires and plugs soon, and try and clean the IACV), as well my tach still bounces after 4k but not as much.
Possible I got a bad ICM? or should I start checking other things and not return the ICM.
Thanks guys.
Modified by Nataku at 8:03 PM 12/9/2006
so I purchase a new ICM from Len's Shop and installed it (as per you guy's suggestions, Which I am very grateful for). I don't have the miss fires anymore, I still have a ruff idle (going to replace wires and plugs soon, and try and clean the IACV), as well my tach still bounces after 4k but not as much.
Possible I got a bad ICM? or should I start checking other things and not return the ICM.
Thanks guys.
Modified by Nataku at 8:03 PM 12/9/2006
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From: FaRcyde
Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Nataku)
I would off replaced the distributor from the get go (Distributor king)
You may be assesed a surcharge by Acura for returning an electrical part if returns are allowed.
You may be assesed a surcharge by Acura for returning an electrical part if returns are allowed.
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Re: (Dave_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it a rough idle problem or that the tach is just bouncing randomly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both, Rough idle, and if I am driving and pull into traffic and rev higher then about 4k the tach starts bouncing randomly.
This new ICM has made a difference (i'm just wondering if it was "sorta bad" from the start), before I would start going from a start it and would sputter and almost die. It doesn't do that anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KayOs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would off replaced the distributor from the get go (Distributor king)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why's that?
Both, Rough idle, and if I am driving and pull into traffic and rev higher then about 4k the tach starts bouncing randomly.
This new ICM has made a difference (i'm just wondering if it was "sorta bad" from the start), before I would start going from a start it and would sputter and almost die. It doesn't do that anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KayOs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would off replaced the distributor from the get go (Distributor king)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why's that?
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From: FaRcyde
Re: (Nataku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why's that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The symptoms you describe are also common for failures of the crank position sensor inside the distributor. This part cannot be replaced as a single unit. It is integrated into the distributor.
Check over your ignition components first ensuring your wires are not crossed or look for discolored/faulty plugs.
Why's that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The symptoms you describe are also common for failures of the crank position sensor inside the distributor. This part cannot be replaced as a single unit. It is integrated into the distributor.
Check over your ignition components first ensuring your wires are not crossed or look for discolored/faulty plugs.
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Re: (KayOs)
I appreciate the information, I'll let you know what my findings from the plugs are. fouled plugs wouldn't cause tach problems though right?
Could you also provide a link to where I could order the new distro if that is what it comes to?
Could you also provide a link to where I could order the new distro if that is what it comes to?
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Re: (Nataku)
I have experienced tach issues....i still have one, my tach goes up to 6k then drops to nothing and then whenthe engine revs back down to 6k the tach flys back up and works...so basically it works within the 0-6k range lol..
I dont worry though because the VAFC still reads the rpms correctly and my check engine light acts as a shift light.
as for if you really want your tach workig...I am still YET to figure out why my tach won't work....the only dizzy its EVER worked with is the one that came with the R. I've had 2 dizzy king dizzys and it didn't work at all with them (car ran fine though) and now this one thats still not reading right withthe tach...I don't know man, I've checked everything
as for the idle problems you are having, my vote...DEFIINATELY plugs are a must to change. I just had that problem yesterday and the plugs were the bad guys. If thats not it, then its probably a dizzy issue. Probably something minor
EDIT: saw that your misfiring...my plugs were F'ed up and I was misfiring horribly. But today I also had a dizzy issue that was causing misfiring...is it a stock dizzy? have you re-pinned it? make sure allthe connections are good? because it its not the plugs, I doubt its the wires, which pretty much means its a ignition issue with the dizzy....also, are you sure the firing sequence is correct on the dizzy?
I dont worry though because the VAFC still reads the rpms correctly and my check engine light acts as a shift light.
as for if you really want your tach workig...I am still YET to figure out why my tach won't work....the only dizzy its EVER worked with is the one that came with the R. I've had 2 dizzy king dizzys and it didn't work at all with them (car ran fine though) and now this one thats still not reading right withthe tach...I don't know man, I've checked everything
as for the idle problems you are having, my vote...DEFIINATELY plugs are a must to change. I just had that problem yesterday and the plugs were the bad guys. If thats not it, then its probably a dizzy issue. Probably something minor
EDIT: saw that your misfiring...my plugs were F'ed up and I was misfiring horribly. But today I also had a dizzy issue that was causing misfiring...is it a stock dizzy? have you re-pinned it? make sure allthe connections are good? because it its not the plugs, I doubt its the wires, which pretty much means its a ignition issue with the dizzy....also, are you sure the firing sequence is correct on the dizzy?
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Re: (Nataku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Both, Rough idle, and if I am driving and pull into traffic and rev higher then about 4k the tach starts bouncing randomly.
This new ICM has made a difference (i'm just wondering if it was "sorta bad" from the start), before I would start going from a start it and would sputter and almost die. It doesn't do that anymore.
Why's that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does it bounce at all at idle? Not the car actually idling higher, but the tach moving? Also, will the vtec engage? Reason I asked about the random bouncing is that's a symptom of the VSS, but if your not having any problems with vtec then I suspect it's not the VSS. As mentioned, do you have the correct firing order of the plugs on the dizzy?
Both, Rough idle, and if I am driving and pull into traffic and rev higher then about 4k the tach starts bouncing randomly.
This new ICM has made a difference (i'm just wondering if it was "sorta bad" from the start), before I would start going from a start it and would sputter and almost die. It doesn't do that anymore.
Why's that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does it bounce at all at idle? Not the car actually idling higher, but the tach moving? Also, will the vtec engage? Reason I asked about the random bouncing is that's a symptom of the VSS, but if your not having any problems with vtec then I suspect it's not the VSS. As mentioned, do you have the correct firing order of the plugs on the dizzy?
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Re: (totsie7944)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have experienced tach issues....i still have one, my tach goes up to 6k then drops to nothing and then whenthe engine revs back down to 6k the tach flys back up and works...so basically it works within the 0-6k range lol..
I dont worry though because the VAFC still reads the rpms correctly and my check engine light acts as a shift light.
as for if you really want your tach workig...I am still YET to figure out why my tach won't work....the only dizzy its EVER worked with is the one that came with the R. I've had 2 dizzy king dizzys and it didn't work at all with them (car ran fine though) and now this one thats still not reading right withthe tach...I don't know man, I've checked everything
as for the idle problems you are having, my vote...DEFIINATELY plugs are a must to change. I just had that problem yesterday and the plugs were the bad guys. If thats not it, then its probably a dizzy issue. Probably something minor
EDIT: saw that your misfiring...my plugs were F'ed up and I was misfiring horribly. But today I also had a dizzy issue that was causing misfiring...is it a stock dizzy? have you re-pinned it? make sure allthe connections are good? because it its not the plugs, I doubt its the wires, which pretty much means its a ignition issue with the dizzy....also, are you sure the firing sequence is correct on the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am positive the firing sequence is correct, because I do not have the missfire problem anymore, that went away when I changed the ICM. The problems now are I still have a tach with a life of it's own after 4k, and a ruff idle. Will change teh plugs as soon as I can. Is it important to change the plug wires too? or do they not usually go bad.
I dont worry though because the VAFC still reads the rpms correctly and my check engine light acts as a shift light.
as for if you really want your tach workig...I am still YET to figure out why my tach won't work....the only dizzy its EVER worked with is the one that came with the R. I've had 2 dizzy king dizzys and it didn't work at all with them (car ran fine though) and now this one thats still not reading right withthe tach...I don't know man, I've checked everything
as for the idle problems you are having, my vote...DEFIINATELY plugs are a must to change. I just had that problem yesterday and the plugs were the bad guys. If thats not it, then its probably a dizzy issue. Probably something minor
EDIT: saw that your misfiring...my plugs were F'ed up and I was misfiring horribly. But today I also had a dizzy issue that was causing misfiring...is it a stock dizzy? have you re-pinned it? make sure allthe connections are good? because it its not the plugs, I doubt its the wires, which pretty much means its a ignition issue with the dizzy....also, are you sure the firing sequence is correct on the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am positive the firing sequence is correct, because I do not have the missfire problem anymore, that went away when I changed the ICM. The problems now are I still have a tach with a life of it's own after 4k, and a ruff idle. Will change teh plugs as soon as I can. Is it important to change the plug wires too? or do they not usually go bad.
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Re: (Dave_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does it bounce at all at idle? Not the car actually idling higher, but the tach moving? Also, will the vtec engage? Reason I asked about the random bouncing is that's a symptom of the VSS, but if your not having any problems with vtec then I suspect it's not the VSS. As mentioned, do you have the correct firing order of the plugs on the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wound't it be obvious that it is in the wrong order? I.E. car wouldn't run too well?
My vtec is fine, tach doesn't bounce until you get on it a little and the RPMs get close to or over 4k
the tach moves at idle, but so does the engine (ruff idle)
Does it bounce at all at idle? Not the car actually idling higher, but the tach moving? Also, will the vtec engage? Reason I asked about the random bouncing is that's a symptom of the VSS, but if your not having any problems with vtec then I suspect it's not the VSS. As mentioned, do you have the correct firing order of the plugs on the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wound't it be obvious that it is in the wrong order? I.E. car wouldn't run too well?
My vtec is fine, tach doesn't bounce until you get on it a little and the RPMs get close to or over 4k
the tach moves at idle, but so does the engine (ruff idle)
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this seems to be a know problem with hondas from R to accords.
if you want to make sure it is not the iac remove intake tubing and place your fingers over the two holes in the throttle body, if she stalls the iac is working.. On my accord i know is it not the name motor but it did that same thing, it was the two wire coolant temp sensor, i had a parts car and swap every thing i know that could give the problem, when i swap the old cts back the issue came back, when i put the parts car one on it went away... usally if a iac is bad it just stuck at a idle or high rpm all the time whether hot or cold. ohm out the 2 wire cts and compare to factory specs
if you want to make sure it is not the iac remove intake tubing and place your fingers over the two holes in the throttle body, if she stalls the iac is working.. On my accord i know is it not the name motor but it did that same thing, it was the two wire coolant temp sensor, i had a parts car and swap every thing i know that could give the problem, when i swap the old cts back the issue came back, when i put the parts car one on it went away... usally if a iac is bad it just stuck at a idle or high rpm all the time whether hot or cold. ohm out the 2 wire cts and compare to factory specs
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Re: (robfrmny21)
Would that explain why my car doesn't rev down to an idle level until my car comes to a complete stop? I just thought it was normal.
Like if I let my car in N and coast to as stop, it idles above 1k then drops to normal once I have stopped.
This also will not fix the tach problem though right? I understand I'm working with two separate issues now.
Like if I let my car in N and coast to as stop, it idles above 1k then drops to normal once I have stopped.
This also will not fix the tach problem though right? I understand I'm working with two separate issues now.
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Re: (Nataku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KayOs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tootsie: please let us know when you find a solution to the problem you are experiencing with the tach. I am interested to find out the culprit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea I will definately man if I ever figure it out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would that explain why my car doesn't rev down to an idle level until my car comes to a complete stop? I just thought it was normal.
Like if I let my car in N and coast to as stop, it idles above 1k then drops to normal once I have stopped.
This also will not fix the tach problem though right? I understand I'm working with two separate issues now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no all our cars will idle a bit higher until you come to a complete stop...as long as its not extreme thats nothing to worry about as far as I know.
Honestly the spark plug wires are usually not bad....I don't see why that would be an issue, and the fact that the car seems to at least run fairly well shows me its most definately not the wires. I would assume its bad plugs....dude it takes $10 and 10 mins to change out plugs....
IF that is not the problem with the idle...then I am williing to guarantee you its a dizzy issue, most likely a ignition issue. check your cap and rotor? sure all the pins are making connection? Keep in mind, the tach issue and rough idle issue, might both be from the dizzy, but for differnent reasons. For instance my tach is still acting kinda like yours, but my caR runs great and idles fine after I changed the plugs....
Change themout and let us know how it idles then.
ALSO: even if all 4 plugs are firing, one cylinder ( I have a hunch its cylinder 3) might not always fire, hense giving a shitty idle....just happened to me
yea I will definately man if I ever figure it out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would that explain why my car doesn't rev down to an idle level until my car comes to a complete stop? I just thought it was normal.
Like if I let my car in N and coast to as stop, it idles above 1k then drops to normal once I have stopped.
This also will not fix the tach problem though right? I understand I'm working with two separate issues now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no all our cars will idle a bit higher until you come to a complete stop...as long as its not extreme thats nothing to worry about as far as I know.
Honestly the spark plug wires are usually not bad....I don't see why that would be an issue, and the fact that the car seems to at least run fairly well shows me its most definately not the wires. I would assume its bad plugs....dude it takes $10 and 10 mins to change out plugs....
IF that is not the problem with the idle...then I am williing to guarantee you its a dizzy issue, most likely a ignition issue. check your cap and rotor? sure all the pins are making connection? Keep in mind, the tach issue and rough idle issue, might both be from the dizzy, but for differnent reasons. For instance my tach is still acting kinda like yours, but my caR runs great and idles fine after I changed the plugs....
Change themout and let us know how it idles then.
ALSO: even if all 4 plugs are firing, one cylinder ( I have a hunch its cylinder 3) might not always fire, hense giving a shitty idle....just happened to me
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Re: (totsie7944)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly the spark plug wires are usually not bad....I don't see why that would be an issue, and the fact that the car seems to at least run fairly well shows me its most definately not the wires. I would assume its bad plugs....dude it takes $10 and 10 mins to change out plugs....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will change them out tomorrow, and I'll let you guys know what is going on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your cap and rotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
New cap and rotor, Changed them out when I changed the ICM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALSO: even if all 4 plugs are firing, one cylinder ( I have a hunch its cylinder 3) might not always fire, hense giving a shitty idle....just happened to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is this? I've never heard of it just not working for no reason.
Thanks guys for all the good feedback.
I will change them out tomorrow, and I'll let you guys know what is going on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your cap and rotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
New cap and rotor, Changed them out when I changed the ICM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALSO: even if all 4 plugs are firing, one cylinder ( I have a hunch its cylinder 3) might not always fire, hense giving a shitty idle....just happened to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is this? I've never heard of it just not working for no reason.
Thanks guys for all the good feedback.
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Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Nataku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had tach bouncing problems for a few months now, Last week it go worse and started misfiring (almost died a few times)
so I purchase a new ICM from Len's Shop and installed it (as per you guy's suggestions, Which I am very grateful for). I don't have the miss fires anymore, I still have a ruff idle (going to replace wires and plugs soon, and try and clean the IACV), as well my tach still bounces after 4k but not as much.
Possible I got a bad ICM? or should I start checking other things and not return the ICM.
Thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here on the lude. Also, my shift light would falsely flash on/off while the tach bounced. It's got bigger problems than a bouncing tach, so I haven't fixed it yet.
Here's a thread about it:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1758028
Bad ignitor seemed to be the consensus.
so I purchase a new ICM from Len's Shop and installed it (as per you guy's suggestions, Which I am very grateful for). I don't have the miss fires anymore, I still have a ruff idle (going to replace wires and plugs soon, and try and clean the IACV), as well my tach still bounces after 4k but not as much.
Possible I got a bad ICM? or should I start checking other things and not return the ICM.
Thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here on the lude. Also, my shift light would falsely flash on/off while the tach bounced. It's got bigger problems than a bouncing tach, so I haven't fixed it yet.
Here's a thread about it:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1758028
Bad ignitor seemed to be the consensus.
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Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Chris F)
I wish the bad igniter fixed my problem, I'm changing the plugs out today guys i'll let you know where I stand from there.
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Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Nataku)
SPARK PLUG UPDATE::
Today I changed out my old sparkplugs for some new NGK V-power plugs (which happened to be what was in there already too). The old plugs were definitely worn, the gap had became 1/4 cm (approx.) bigger then the normal plugs. The car idles perfectly now with the new plugs (1 down 1 to go!).
So here is a recap:
ICM (igniter) fixed misfire problem
New plugs fixed ruff idle
Tach problem still persists
Conclusion (I think), I bought a $170 bandaid (igniter) for the Dizzy, and should have just bought the Dizzy to start.
What would you guys say since the Plugs fixed the ruff idle? Still thinking it's the Dizzy?
Also, when I took off the spark plugs wire cover, the screws that held it on were cover in oil... is this normal?
P.S there was reddish-orange silicon in my spark plug holes around where the valve cover gasket should be, as well as all over my plugs wires. Upon further inspection, i see more of the silicon squishing out the back of the valve cover as well. did someone jury rig a valve cover gasket in my car before I bought it?
I need to restore my valve cover anyway (paint is flaking off) so I'll replace the gasket then.
Thanks again guys.
Today I changed out my old sparkplugs for some new NGK V-power plugs (which happened to be what was in there already too). The old plugs were definitely worn, the gap had became 1/4 cm (approx.) bigger then the normal plugs. The car idles perfectly now with the new plugs (1 down 1 to go!).
So here is a recap:
ICM (igniter) fixed misfire problem
New plugs fixed ruff idle
Tach problem still persists
Conclusion (I think), I bought a $170 bandaid (igniter) for the Dizzy, and should have just bought the Dizzy to start.
What would you guys say since the Plugs fixed the ruff idle? Still thinking it's the Dizzy?
Also, when I took off the spark plugs wire cover, the screws that held it on were cover in oil... is this normal?
P.S there was reddish-orange silicon in my spark plug holes around where the valve cover gasket should be, as well as all over my plugs wires. Upon further inspection, i see more of the silicon squishing out the back of the valve cover as well. did someone jury rig a valve cover gasket in my car before I bought it?
I need to restore my valve cover anyway (paint is flaking off) so I'll replace the gasket then.
Thanks again guys.
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Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (KayOs)
It's back to where we started!
I went out to buy some Christmas presents, and the idle was ruff again
. Then on the way home the tach starting bouncing at random even at idle, at a stoplight it misfired and died...
I started it up again and was able to get home, I guess need to go ahead and order that dizzy.
I went out to buy some Christmas presents, and the idle was ruff again
. Then on the way home the tach starting bouncing at random even at idle, at a stoplight it misfired and died...I started it up again and was able to get home, I guess need to go ahead and order that dizzy.
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Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Nataku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's back to where we started!
I went out to buy some Christmas presents, and the idle was ruff again. Then on the way home the tach starting bouncing at random even at idle, at a stoplight it misfired and died...
I started it up again and was able to get home, I guess need to go ahead and order that dizzy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, I AM GOING TO GUARANTEE you its the dizzy....I just had this like i said...its a ignition problem, which means its either the dizzy, or the wires going to the dizzy that have a problem. I went through 8 new spark plugs in 2 days because of misfiring. I wish I lived near you to take a look for you...
I wouldn't buy a new dizzy if I were you...I would just swap a used dizzy off another car and re-pin it....save yourself some money
also, the oil isn't a big deal, just get new gaskets and seals like mentioned above. PM me if you have any questions man.
I went out to buy some Christmas presents, and the idle was ruff again
. Then on the way home the tach starting bouncing at random even at idle, at a stoplight it misfired and died...I started it up again and was able to get home, I guess need to go ahead and order that dizzy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dude, I AM GOING TO GUARANTEE you its the dizzy....I just had this like i said...its a ignition problem, which means its either the dizzy, or the wires going to the dizzy that have a problem. I went through 8 new spark plugs in 2 days because of misfiring. I wish I lived near you to take a look for you...
I wouldn't buy a new dizzy if I were you...I would just swap a used dizzy off another car and re-pin it....save yourself some money
also, the oil isn't a big deal, just get new gaskets and seals like mentioned above. PM me if you have any questions man.
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From: Charlotte, NC, USA
Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (totsie7944)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dude, I AM GOING TO GUARANTEE you its the dizzy....I just had this like i said...its a ignition problem, which means its either the dizzy, or the wires going to the dizzy that have a problem. I went through 8 new spark plugs in 2 days because of misfiring. I wish I lived near you to take a look for you...
I wouldn't buy a new dizzy if I were you...I would just swap a used dizzy off another car and re-pin it....save yourself some money
also, the oil isn't a big deal, just get new gaskets and seals like mentioned above. PM me if you have any questions man. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks,
I actually did just order a new Dizzy from Distributor King, Good price and it seems like good service. I'll be sure to post back here and let you guys know what happens after I get it installed.
Should I check my new plugs after I replace this Dizzy to make sure they weren't fouled?
Dude, I AM GOING TO GUARANTEE you its the dizzy....I just had this like i said...its a ignition problem, which means its either the dizzy, or the wires going to the dizzy that have a problem. I went through 8 new spark plugs in 2 days because of misfiring. I wish I lived near you to take a look for you...
I wouldn't buy a new dizzy if I were you...I would just swap a used dizzy off another car and re-pin it....save yourself some money
also, the oil isn't a big deal, just get new gaskets and seals like mentioned above. PM me if you have any questions man.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks,
I actually did just order a new Dizzy from Distributor King, Good price and it seems like good service. I'll be sure to post back here and let you guys know what happens after I get it installed.
Should I check my new plugs after I replace this Dizzy to make sure they weren't fouled?
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,558
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From: Somewhere in MD, MD, USA
Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (Nataku)
honestly your having an ignition problem...which means that you probably fudged your plugs a bit driving it like it was...if I were you I would go ahead and spend the big $12 to get new plugs and install WITH the new dizzy.....you want everything running its best man. right now your plugs are prolly a bit shitted up haha.
PS let us know if your tach works with the dizzy king dizzy...mine didn't for some reason, but everyone elses did lol
PS let us know if your tach works with the dizzy king dizzy...mine didn't for some reason, but everyone elses did lol
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,023
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From: Charlotte, NC, USA
Re: Tach Problems persist after replacing ICM (totsie7944)
Do you guys have any tips for installing the Dizzy without messing up my timing? I was thinking to take a sharpy and stencil around the old dizzy (on the head) so I can line up the new one perfectly.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?