I want more displacement for my block, something in the range of 2.4 to 2.5 liters.
Should i bore the stock H22 to 91mm (91x90.7=2.36) which maintains the stock 1.58 rod/stroke ratio, or bore to 89mm and put a H23 crank (89x95mm=2.36) which is 1.50 r/s ratio?

I want to rev to 8.5 to 9k. using carillo or pauter rods on 13:1cr.
I know the best option is to just bore but i don't know how save 91mm is. It is a street/race setup.

 

i would combine both but maybe go with a 90mm bore and the h23 crank
even 91mm bore if you want the extreme but 90mm is safer.

 

you cant bore the stock block beyond 87.25mm

you gotta sleeve the motor to bore beyond that.

 

K24 would get you there without braking a sweat. Back to the topic, I definitely don't want to go beyond 90mm bore on an H22. 90mm is already pushing the sleeve limit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant bore the stock block beyond 87.25mm

you gotta sleeve the motor to bore beyond that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats a given
i know that pocket rockets can run a 91mm bore on a daily driver block.
he can also do 92mm on race applications

 

I personally wouldnt go over 89mm unless its a full race setup. 89 is pretty safe and much more reliable than 90+mm bores. once yo get into 90mm+ bores, you're asking for headaches regarding reliability.
89mm with the h23 crank. thats what I recommend

 

I'd go 90mm bore with an F23 cranck. (Though I'm not sure about the R/S ratio) Just make sure you do it right though. I'm probably going 90mm on my street H open deck with a 95mm VTEC crank.


Modified by Televator at 9:08 AM 12/7/2006

 

Not sure about a daily driver but I'm running a H23 crank (95mm) with a 90mm bore 15:1 compression. The only problem I've ran into is you have to watch the H20 temp. If it heats up then kiss your head gasket good bye and get ready for a refreshing on the bottom end. As far as reving it, I never had any problems running my motor to 9k. it does stop making power after 8750. Make sure when going with that big of a bore you use all lite weight parts and knife edge the crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerx023 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure about a daily driver but I'm running a H23 crank (95mm) with a 90mm bore 15:1 compression. The only problem I've ran into is you have to watch the H20 temp. If it heats up then kiss your head gasket good bye and get ready for a refreshing on the bottom end. As far as reving it, I never had any problems running my motor to 9k. it does stop making power after 8750. Make sure when going with that big of a bore you use all lite weight parts and knife edge the crank. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why I recommend 89mm bore for most people. at 90mm, you dont have much room to play with if you have to rebuild. I just try to make it simple and reliable for most people so no worries with overheating and head gasket problems.

 

i would agree . 89 or 89.5 either way its giong to be hard to get 90mm safely.
i wonder what trick those guys running 90mm bores on the k24 are using.
i doesnt seem to be a problem to them and they run those k engins into the ground
and they keep spinning.
if done right 90mm will hold up fine

 

Is that a strictly race motor, the 15:1 90mm bore? What kind of fuel do you use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that a strictly race motor, the 15:1 90mm bore? What kind of fuel do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, thats strictly a race motor I'm using in my drag EG hatch. Im running A19A from ERC race gas which is 125+ leaded.

 

what kind of hp are you making and what rpm do you turn it to

 

Well i meant sleeving + borring. Of what ive read 89mm would be the most reliable. Great info guys thanks. keep posting more info though!

 

keep in mind that at 90mm, you are leaving pretty much no room for a rebuild. You are maxing out the block and if the sleeve gets damaged badly, then thats the end of the block. At 89mm, you still have room to have a fresh bore and hone.
Unless you are in some PRO class and competing nationally for top finish, whats 1mm difference going to do. Stick with 89mm and make your life easier.

 

The few Companies out there such as Collective Racing and Pocket Rockets are using welded up H22A cranks to make stroker builds...H22A cranks are much stronger then the H23 cranks...also for higher RPM I don't think the H23A crank would be ideal for HIGH rpms...Also not many people are running 90+ mm bore I believe the fact of just too big of a bore for the block and to be strong at the same time...most people go as far as 89mm...piston selection as well is limited between bores?

Depending on the stroker build I beleve a B series Type rod would be achievable to use with a welded up stroker crank and custom pistons...I think a few people have used this setup...2.5-2.6...

 

^^Not all H23 cranks fall into the "weaker" catagory.....The one I got stashed away is built for VTEC.

 

unless tha crank is nitrated! The h23 crank will fail. 2 have one me. You would be better getting the h22 crank off set ground and custom rods. Or get a Brian Crower 100mm stroker kit. I got mine for 2600.

 

I beleive the new fad is to use the F23 crank not the H23. because the F23 crank is much more stout the the older H23...

 

Yeah I think thats true I have had mine in for a while before I got my BC kit.

 

I check the products from PocketRockets quite a lot. And the 100mm crank is a viable option. But i would rather get a h2b kit first from that money and later on go for the BCrower 100mm crank.

The reason im asking all of this is that i am really planning a pro build for streetracing. going for a build head is the best thing to do but i wouldn't get all out of it from the type of compression i have now. so i though why not start with the block? sleeving, 89mm bore and 13:12 c/r. hondata tuned. My next topic of research will be flat dome vs high domed pistons. i'll search first of course.

 

go with the bisi kit. I have the h2d but now he have there version of the h2b. I am doing a new car with all oem parts(jdm and usdm) and a crx hf trans to see what type of mph it can reach.

 

im gonna be using the new h2b kit in about a month offered by bisi stock f23 bottom end with stock h22 head type r trans, see if i can hit some 12 second passes

 

Let us all know how the bisi h2b worked out for you.

 

ohh i will as soon i get it