My 99 civic si bogs down sporadicly when it is warm. when I does, there is no power at all untill approx. 4500 rpm. at times its bad enough that the car stalls when not moving. It is throwing a cel saying it is rich. I just had a valve job done and had the valves adjusted 3 times. the valves are dead on. the guys at the shop just got some new toys for testing circuitry and all it is telling them is that everything is ok.

 

well whats the cel for? the code number..

 

Im not sure what the code says but the last time I checked it it was number 1 cylinder bank rich or something like that...Ill come back when the cel comes back on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steelrainwarrior &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not sure what the code says but the last time I checked it it was number 1 cylinder bank rich or something like that...Ill come back when the cel comes back on</TD></TR></TABLE>

durrrrrrr

oxygen sensor. fire your mechanic friends.

 

hopefully it was checked since they went through all the systems, but Ill go by and make sure tomarrow. but wouldn't that be more of a constant problem rather than a sporadic problem.

 

I like your sig buy the way some one sent that to me a while back

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steelrainwarrior &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully it was checked since they went through all the systems, but Ill go by and make sure tomarrow. but wouldn't that be more of a constant problem rather than a sporadic problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends. if it's the heating circuit that's the problem then no, it wont, especially not until colder weather. Or, if the circuit isnt completely bad then it wont always show up until the o2 has a "bad hiccup".

either way, I dont care what code it is. if the code breaks in the book as being something along the lines of "bank 1" or "bank 2"..."rich" or "lean" then it's an o2 sensor or clogged catalytic converter. Most of the time its the o2 sensor as a clogged cat would give you a LOT more problems since it would block exhaust flow completely.

 

lack of air flow bad feul mixture what are you running 86octane?? does it idle low like it's bogging better description on car might help

 

Most likely o2 sensor, but it could also be fuel pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikel_143 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lack of air flow bad feul mixture what are you running 86octane?? does it idle low like it's bogging better description on car might help </TD></TR></TABLE>

no I'v always run 93 octane

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trboeclpse98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely o2 sensor, but it could also be fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill get the o2 sensor checked I got the exhaust replaced at the same time but I was also thinking about the fuel pump

 

I noticed something else it seems to happen more often after high rpm driving like interstate driving. It doesnt have a problem while at high rpms but after I slow down and drive through the city

 

We had a problem like this in shop on a GM and a Ford. Could be the ignition module. Same thing was happening to these cars. We would take it out and get the engines warm, But as soon as the engine was up to temp, it would stall. We checked the coils, they were good, but when we checked the ign. module, the ohms weren't coming out to spec, ordered a new module, cars ran like champs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nolia3du &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We had a problem like this in shop on a GM and a Ford. Could be the ignition module. Same thing was happening to these cars. We would take it out and get the engines warm, But as soon as the engine was up to temp, it would stall. We checked the coils, they were good, but when we checked the ign. module, the ohms weren't coming out to spec, ordered a new module, cars ran like champs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did It happen slowly like mine doesn't do it every time. It runs strong for a while then randomly it will start hesitating to the point that it did stall out one time while I was trying to back into a parking place. when it does that I can floor it and wait for the rpms to pick up then it runs fine again

 

the cars would run fine, til they got to operating temp. Then they would start to stall under normal engine load, aka cruising. If we got the rpms up it would run a little more, til it would finely stall. then we could get it to start til the temp came down. I'd say look into the ign. module. My friends mustang was doing this and he replaced about $1500 in parts til He asked me. I told him we had a similar problem in class. He put the new module in and runs good. As for the o2 sensors if your mechanic has a graphing scan tool, he should be able to look at what the o2 sensors is doing. If the back o2 sensor is close to a flat line then its working, but if it is following a similar up and down curve as the front, then it is not working properly, or the cat is not working.

 

he told me that everything he checked told him there was nothing wrong. It doesn't stall when it gets up to temp, but just hesitates a little bit. Ill look into it though any Idea what the ign module costs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steelrainwarrior &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he told me that everything he checked told him there was nothing wrong. It doesn't stall when it gets up to temp, but just hesitates a little bit. Ill look into it though any Idea what the ign module costs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what is the exact cel? a bad map or lose hose running to the map sensor will cause sputtering around that rpm, and will run rich.

 

thats what i was trying to get from him+^^^ and honda has a bulletin out for the ignitiong switch causing the car to stall or hesitate.. just to let u know.

 

the cel hasn't come back on when It does ill post it up

 

change your fuel filter while your at it. usually a bogging is caused by bad/clogged fuel flow. But even in this case I think its something more. I'd just keep researching around the CEL

 

the fuel filter was changed about 2 months ago

 

Any luck on figuring out what the problem is? im having the same problem with my 96 coupe. It does exactly waht you are saying,and if i quick turn the key off and back on while im driving, it will be fine??????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted96coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any luck on figuring out what the problem is? im having the same problem with my 96 coupe. It does exactly waht you are saying,and if i quick turn the key off and back on while im driving, it will be fine?????? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I havn't tried that...what have you done to try and fix it?

 

I had the same problem a couple months ago. I changed a lot of things without getting any results, but when I changed my ECU my problem was solved. Try borrowing a friends ECU and see if that solves your problem

Things I replaced:
o2 sensor
cap and rotor
fuel filter
injectors


Good luck

 

So far i replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2 sensors. Its weird mine doesn't throw a cel, and it will only do it once everytime i drive. It will do it after i drive about a mile, but then after i flick the key off and on, it will be fine until i shut the car off?! After i shut the car off and i go to drive it will do it again after about a mile, then i just flick the key off and on, and its fine.

 

Dude check your Map sensor!...im sure it will fix your problem!