I am beggining to rebuld my old project. It has been sitting there for almost 2 years collecting dust. Thanks to a very nice local machine shop my pistons are rocking inside the cylinders. In other words he over bored it. Now my ls/vtec is, once again, in pieces. Now that I need bigger pistons I decided to go turbo.

My setup fully rebuilt:
94 B18C1 head
3 angle valve job
mild shave
stock cams
MSD ignition

94 B18B1 block
bored to who knows what size, I have not measured the bore yet
B18B1 stock crank
B18B1 Eagle H beam rods with ARP bolts
81.5mm SRP Forged pistons
11.7:1 CR, 11.5:1+.2 because of B18C1 head.
B18C5 oil pump

I might of missed something but everything else is new, like valve guides and seals, JE rings, OEM bearings and seals.

My question is, how much can I bore my cylinders? I was supposed to have them .020 over but want to go as big as .080 but Im not sure if that is gonna be safe with 12-14 PSI.

My other question is what is the best turbo size for this application. I want minimal turbo lag, but I want to be able to boost up to 20 PSI. That does not mean that I will but thats what I am shooting at.

As far as tuning and and fuel management goes, I am not worrying about that right now. My plan is to get Hondata S300, 550CC injectors (maybe bigger), HKS turbo timer and HKS boost controller. I have a local shop that will dyno the car.

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. If you know anyone with parts that I might be able to use let me know.

 

i don't have any great answers, but you should try posting this in the 'forced induction' forum. i'm sure you'll get a lot more help there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akandok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am beggining to rebuld my old project. It has been sitting there for almost 2 years collecting dust. Thanks to a very nice local machine shop my pistons are rocking inside the cylinders. In other words he over bored it. Now my ls/vtec is, once again, in pieces. Now that I need bigger pistons I decided to go turbo.

My setup fully rebuilt:
94 B18C1 head
3 angle valve job
mild shave
stock cams
MSD ignition

94 B18B1 block
bored to who knows what size, I have not measured the bore yet
B18B1 stock crank
B18B1 Eagle H beam rods with ARP bolts
81.5mm SRP Forged pistons
11.7:1 CR, 11.5:1+.2 because of B18C1 head.
B18C5 oil pump

I might of missed something but everything else is new, like valve guides and seals, JE rings, OEM bearings and seals.

My question is, how much can I bore my cylinders? I was supposed to have them .020 over but want to go as big as .080 but Im not sure if that is gonna be safe with 12-14 PSI.

My other question is what is the best turbo size for this application. I want minimal turbo lag, but I want to be able to boost up to 20 PSI. That does not mean that I will but thats what I am shooting at.

As far as tuning and and fuel management goes, I am not worrying about that right now. My plan is to get Hondata S300, 550CC injectors (maybe bigger), HKS turbo timer and HKS boost controller. I have a local shop that will dyno the car.

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. If you know anyone with parts that I might be able to use let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, first your compression ratio is too high. Keep the bore what it is now because too big of a bore wont make you rev as high. If you could get pistons for a 9.0 to 9.5:1 application that would take to boost very well. The rule of thumb is lower comp is better from turbo. Another thing is, get bigger injectors get like 700+. Always have more than enough fuel. Are you running stock sleeves? Your LS block should handle 350whp on stock sleeves. Are you going to drag race or road course this car? If you want superior response, get a gt28rs for road course, or even a gt30 for drag racing and best response and nice power. Also make sure your manifold is tubular like a full race one, that will reduce lag by about 500rpm.

 

dude if your bores are .080 over stock , thats bad. you can run the risk of cracking one of the sleeves or more than one. specially in a boost engine. too much heat , not enough metal between the cylinders anymore. you could prolly find out for sure , but im pretty sure thats too big to the point where youd be taking chances. hope im wrong bud , lol , sleeving aint cheap.

 

Keep in mind the fact that i need new pistons. I just forgot to mention that new pistons will be 9:1 CP ratio.

 

the fact of finding pistons that fit the holes isnt a problem , its can the cylinder walls handle the abuse now that they are so thin.

 

you definately need this bitch sleeved

 

yeah, small problem though. Im getting married in February. So i cant dump a **** load of money into it, just yet.

Buying sleeves is not a problem, finding someone to do it is. And with the power goal that Im looking for, it is not needed.

I am not going bore it anymore, Im going to try to find a piston that fit where my block is at. If I cant find anything like that, I will see if there is a piston with the most minimal work needed. And if that pisses me off, new block.. I might even go B20, since I need new pistons and I have B18B1 rods.

Here is another question, Where would I tab my block for an oil line for my turbo? Where the oil pressure switch is? What if I already have a fitting there that feeds my head? And if my turbo is water cooled as well, where would connect that?

 

can anyone say what turbo this is just by looking at it?

 

bump

 

Golden Eagle has a ls/vtec conversion kit which includes the oil line, gasket, and fitting. You might want to check them out. As for the compression, if you want to be able to use pump gas you might want to go with a lower compression. I would think at 20 psi 9:5:1 is still too much. I would suggest getting something like a 8:8:1, but then again I have yet to do something like what your doing.

 

my ls/vtec was running, it was all done. I dont need an ls/vtec conversion kit. I was wondering where can I get oil for my turbo. I am skeptic about using the same hole because i want my head to have adequate lubrication. i am afraid that if i hook up oil for the turbo over there, the head might have a slight lack of oil. if you are not aware the oil passages do not line up in the vtec head and ls block..

As for CR, i was thinking of going as low as 8.8:1 but then the car wont is gonna be running crappy when not in boost. its going to feel like a B18B1 before vtec and boost kick in. im thinking ill get somewhere between 9:1 - 9.3:1. dont forget my GSr head adds .2 to CR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akandok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, small problem though. Im getting married in February. So i cant dump a **** load of money into it, just yet.

Buying sleeves is not a problem, finding someone to do it is. And with the power goal that Im looking for, it is not needed.

I am not going bore it anymore, Im going to try to find a piston that fit where my block is at. If I cant find anything like that, I will see if there is a piston with the most minimal work needed. And if that pisses me off, new block.. I might even go B20, since I need new pistons and I have B18B1 rods.

Here is another question, Where would I tab my block for an oil line for my turbo? Where the oil pressure switch is? What if I already have a fitting there that feeds my head? And if my turbo is water cooled as well, where would connect that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my advice would be put off the wedding until the car is how you want it...but im a selfesh dick like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akandok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my ls/vtec was running, it was all done. I dont need an ls/vtec conversion kit. I was wondering where can I get oil for my turbo. I am skeptic about using the same hole because i want my head to have adequate lubrication. i am afraid that if i hook up oil for the turbo over there, the head might have a slight lack of oil. if you are not aware the oil passages do not line up in the vtec head and ls block..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
run it from your oil pan weld a bung so you can have a oil line runing from the oil pan to the turbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akandok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, small problem though. Im getting married in February. So i cant dump a **** load of money into it, just yet.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah like that one guy said put off the wedding untill you get your car done, if she really loves you she would support you 100% on your car and is willing to wait and if she doesnt want to wait she is only thinking about her self and you should dump her ***. sorry dont mean to sound like a dick but thats just the way it is, do it right the first time or dont do it at all.

 

Oh okay, sorry for the misunderstanding. I thought was going to be assembled, my mistake. As for the oil location, if you've tapped into the location of the oil pressure sensor, you can buy a sandwich that will go between the oil filter and the block. I don't think you have to do that but if you're worried about turbo starvation (and I can't prove that it won't happen) then you could do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boots &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my advice would be put off the wedding until the car is how you want it...but im a selfesh dick like that </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah like that one guy said put off the wedding untill you get your car done, if she really loves you she would support you 100% on your car and is willing to wait and if she doesnt want to wait she is only thinking about her self and you should dump her ***. sorry dont mean to sound like a dick but thats just the way it is, do it right the first time or dont do it at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a good one, Im not sure a lot of people are going to support that
I like my car but it i dont know if ill put the car in front of her
But dont worry ill put all the time i have into the motor so its going to be done right. im not going to half *** it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbocivic7901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh okay, sorry for the misunderstanding. I thought was going to be assembled, my mistake. As for the oil location, if you've tapped into the location of the oil pressure sensor, you can buy a sandwich that will go between the oil filter and the block. I don't think you have to do that but if you're worried about turbo starvation (and I can't prove that it won't happen) then you could do that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a good idea. i haven't thought of that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run it from your oil pan weld a bung so you can have a oil line runing from the oil pan to the turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>
for return, yes that was exactly the plan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chips’n Salza II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am looking for turbo set ups for my integra R...i like the greddy kits. What you think about that?

Your ls swaps will be nice with turbos </TD></TR></TABLE>

stop talking

 

so does anyone know what that turbo is?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akandok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so does anyone know what that turbo is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have that turbo in possession? when i got mine i had no idea what kind it was other than the brand and that it was a t3/t4. i wrote down all the numbers that were on the turbo and ran them through google, found all i needed to know about it.

 

UPS has my turbo, its being shipped to me. i already tried google. nothing came up.

* GARRETT
* 1/2 (Y)
* M12 D.V (A/R.60)
* (17)(1)
* 5524-190
* A/R100M2 GARRETT 1123F
* Made in Brazil
* 0331EK03B
* 4653665018EK0138
* PRATS

This is everything off of it.

 

bump

 

anybody? are you telling me that no one knows what this turbo is?

 

maybe try emailing garrett with that info?