im prepairing to build my lsvtec as soon as it snows here in brookings south dakota i was just wondering if there were any suggestions as to what i should change or if everything sounds ok?

what i have so far:
b18a block, honned by myself
complete sir-II b16 w/lsd
acl b18 bearing kit
moates chiped ecu
b18 crank, b18 rods

my setup is planned on being:
b18a block, sir-II head
not sure if i should use b18 rods or go after market, any suggestions welcome
p30 pistons out of b16 ( 40,ooo miles on them)
oem rings
arp bolts
ge lsvtec kit.
b16 tranny
ostrich from moates

im just looking for second opionions cause around here a b swap alone is god so theres really no help.

 

keep the stock rods if you're using stock pistons. have the rotating assembly balanced and the crank micropolished. what about cams? header and exhaust?

 

top ends going to be stock for now till the cash flow comes in. will i be fine using stock ls rods with a high compression setup like this? and can someone give me a running estimate and the cost of getting the crank balenced and polished?, exhaust is 2.5 with a cat and twin core muffler. and im not sure as what to run as far as header.

 

compression should only be ~11.5:1 so it's manageable. even with the rod bolts just dont go revving the **** out of it and you should be fine. crank balancing and micropolishing is $150 from laskey racing

maybe try a rage header if you're on a budget

 

zeal auto werks calculator says its going to be 12.18, is that still ok? also what do you think the safe rev/shift point would be?, again im using all arp and acl

 

i heard u should shot peen ur ls rods
but im not an expert, so u should ask around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">zeal auto werks calculator says its going to be 12.18, is that still ok? also what do you think the safe rev/shift point would be?, again im using all arp and acl</TD></TR></TABLE>

correction that's right. my bad. still with the cr you should use nothing but the highest octane gas you have access to and have a very good tune. you didnt mention what you'll be tuning with. see where your cams stop making power and set the rev limit a few hundred rpms above that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killaj12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard u should shot peen ur ls rods
but im not an expert, so u should ask around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

shotpeening isnt a bad idea either

 

ill be tuning it with crome and ecu pro, but does anyone have any information as to shot peening cause ive been told by the time that you pay for having them shotpeened, then have them re honed and bored since it relaxes the metal, its already in the 200+dollar range, thats why i was considering getting new rods

 

if you get new rods but stick with oem pistons you'll have to modify the pistons to accept floating wrist pins as stock are press fit.

 

would the ls rods be ok then? would you run them with this setup? i just dont want to dump all this money for this engine then have a rod go out on me 2k later

 

http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/...56400

this was helpful for a bunch of people building lsvtec setups around my area

 

the rods are fine , but the rod bolts are no good for LSVTEC&gt; if your gonna use LS rods for your LSVTEC , than at the very least , put them back in with ARP rod bolts. youl be ok. LS have stock weak rodbolts. same bolts as D series engines if im not mistaken.

 

so would you think id be fine, i am using all arp studs through out the engine, also i bought a header last night, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1791187 is this going to be a good one for my use, it will go through a catco then a twin core muffler, all 2.5in

 

ok, update, i got some shotpeened ls rods now, with some arp's that have been stretched and ready to go, still looking for input.