How much does a tune cost?
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From: Hessian Aggression
Re: How much does a tune cost? (all-mtr-teg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a quote from a local shop for $500 for a hondata s200 and a street tune. Is that resonable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would call that bullshit. crome is free if you haev a socketed ecu. and a "street tune" isnt a tune at all. a true tune invloved a dyno, not some hillbilly making 3rd gear pulls in your car on backroads.
i would call that bullshit. crome is free if you haev a socketed ecu. and a "street tune" isnt a tune at all. a true tune invloved a dyno, not some hillbilly making 3rd gear pulls in your car on backroads.
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From: Right, Here, .
Re: (Combustion Contraption)
I'm assuming they are supplying ecu cause i told them my car is obd2 and they told me $500 for everything including wire harness. So $500 pretty resonable then? I would do crome, if i knew what i was doing.
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Buy an ECU chipped with Crome from one of the many suppliers on the site (I'm running a J-K-Tuning.com P28) and go to Whitfield or Church's to have it tuned on a dyno for around $300 ($150/hr. usually). That'll be around $460 depending on what ECU options you choose and how long it takes for the actual tune.
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From: Cantonment, FL
Re: How much does a tune cost? (xDEFTONESx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would call that bullshit. crome is free if you haev a socketed ecu. and a "street tune" isnt a tune at all. a true tune invloved a dyno, not some hillbilly making 3rd gear pulls in your car on backroads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can get alot done in a street tune...fyi
you can get alot done in a street tune...fyi
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If you told them youre OBD2 and it includes ECU, its also going to have to include an OBD1 conv. harness, factoring all that in, even though dyno > street, $500 isnt so bad.
Some guys drop that on a watch.
Some guys drop that on a watch.
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Re: How much does a tune cost? (AznBlueBoy)
yeah but street tuning isn't something I would really firgure a shop to be doing.
But yeah a good street tune can save you a lot of time and money on the dyno, but if you don't know what your doing it could take longer to undo a tune and then retune the car.
If your getting a chipped ECU, Hondata, and a full tune for $500 dollars then I would go for it if you can get it on a dyno, if they are saying "street tuned" my guess is they have some sort of map saved with your mods in mind or some and they will run it around on the street to make it feel smooth quick. Wouldn't trust a tune from a shop if it wasn't on a dyno personally.
But yeah a good street tune can save you a lot of time and money on the dyno, but if you don't know what your doing it could take longer to undo a tune and then retune the car.
If your getting a chipped ECU, Hondata, and a full tune for $500 dollars then I would go for it if you can get it on a dyno, if they are saying "street tuned" my guess is they have some sort of map saved with your mods in mind or some and they will run it around on the street to make it feel smooth quick. Wouldn't trust a tune from a shop if it wasn't on a dyno personally.
Re: How much does a tune cost? (DCxMagus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCxMagus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but street tuning isn't something I would really firgure a shop to be doing.
But yeah a good street tune can save you a lot of time and money on the dyno, but if you don't know what your doing it could take longer to undo a tune and then retune the car.
If your getting a chipped ECU, Hondata, and a full tune for $500 dollars then I would go for it if you can get it on a dyno, if they are saying "street tuned" my guess is they have some sort of map saved with your mods in mind or some and they will run it around on the street to make it feel smooth quick. Wouldn't trust a tune from a shop if it wasn't on a dyno personally.</TD></TR></TABLE>
some places, like evans tuning, offer both street and dyno tuning. typically they'll tune your car on the street first to get all the part throttle maps down. then hit the dyno for all the WOT stuff.
But yeah a good street tune can save you a lot of time and money on the dyno, but if you don't know what your doing it could take longer to undo a tune and then retune the car.
If your getting a chipped ECU, Hondata, and a full tune for $500 dollars then I would go for it if you can get it on a dyno, if they are saying "street tuned" my guess is they have some sort of map saved with your mods in mind or some and they will run it around on the street to make it feel smooth quick. Wouldn't trust a tune from a shop if it wasn't on a dyno personally.</TD></TR></TABLE>
some places, like evans tuning, offer both street and dyno tuning. typically they'll tune your car on the street first to get all the part throttle maps down. then hit the dyno for all the WOT stuff.
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
inertial dynos arent so hot at part loads, so street tuning should be done prior to save dyno time where mostly just the WOT last two columns will be played with. the car could still pull away popping and farting at part throttle.
dynapacks make street tuning pointless, as they are able to replicate anything youd encounter on the street and more. theyve got the ability to hold the load anywhere in the rpm range so you can fill the datalogs with actual info instead of filling the untouchable cells with statistical guesses.
dynapacks make street tuning pointless, as they are able to replicate anything youd encounter on the street and more. theyve got the ability to hold the load anywhere in the rpm range so you can fill the datalogs with actual info instead of filling the untouchable cells with statistical guesses.
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Re: (mike_belben@yahoo.com)
Why is tuning on the street different than on an inertial dyno? Theoretically there is no difference since your car is the inertial mass on the street and the drum the inertial mass on the inertial dyno. Are you applying the brakes when street tuning or do you have hills with various grades or the car has really poor aero qualities? Just curious.
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Re: (Combustion Contraption)
The thing is, i live is a pretty small town, pop. 20,000. Nearest street tuner is 30 mins. away, and nearest dyno jet is about 1 hour away, and they only tune with appointmet, but they are booked for weeks. So im hoping to get a street tune so i can at least drive my car until its dyno tuned, would that be wise, or should i just wait to get both done back to back? thanks for all the info.
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Re: (Combustion Contraption)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think because of the lack of immediately quantifiable tw or hp gain figures.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you tuning for HP in the part-throttle portions of the map? Sorry I am just the lackey here.
Are you tuning for HP in the part-throttle portions of the map? Sorry I am just the lackey here.
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From: Sersey Jhore
Re: (all-mtr-teg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing is, i live is a pretty small town, pop. 20,000. Nearest street tuner is 30 mins. away, and nearest dyno jet is about 1 hour away, and they only tune with appointmet, but they are booked for weeks. So im hoping to get a street tune so i can at least drive my car until its dyno tuned, would that be wise, or should i just wait to get both done back to back? thanks for all the info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I personally think thats fine. At least with a good street tune your A/F will be good and its in "real" conditions. As long as you don't mind paying to tune it twice
I personally think thats fine. At least with a good street tune your A/F will be good and its in "real" conditions. As long as you don't mind paying to tune it twice
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Re: (Don Lackey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you tuning for HP in the part-throttle portions of the map? Sorry I am just the lackey here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not typically. in the part throttle portions of the map i tune the motor to output the greatest fuel efficiency.
not typically. in the part throttle portions of the map i tune the motor to output the greatest fuel efficiency.
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Re: (B.Rabbit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not typically. in the part throttle portions of the map i tune the motor to output the greatest fuel efficiency.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Normally I would ask more questions to see the degree of your knowledge but since you have been a great help to Randy, I will spare you from the wrath of the lackey.
I do agree with that statement.
not typically. in the part throttle portions of the map i tune the motor to output the greatest fuel efficiency.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Normally I would ask more questions to see the degree of your knowledge but since you have been a great help to Randy, I will spare you from the wrath of the lackey.
I do agree with that statement.
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
Re: (Don Lackey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is tuning on the street different than on an inertial dyno? Theoretically there is no difference since your car is the inertial mass on the street and the drum the inertial mass on the inertial dyno. Are you applying the brakes when street tuning or do you have hills with various grades or the car has really poor aero qualities? Just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will tread lightly to avoid putting my foot in my mouth here.. since i have never been on a dyno in my life, am relatively new to EFI tuning and may certainly be assuming certain things that are or are not true, particularly regarding different manufacturer models.
my understanding is that an inertial dyno is simply a massive load that freewheels. record the time required to accelerate a known mass from one rpm to another rpm through a given gear ratio and you can calculate the torque, then calculate the HP. i am under the impression that inertial dynos do not have clamping ability how a hydraulic or water brake would. my basic distaste for inertial dynos is that under a WOT pull, if there is a tq dip of 2 ft lbs, the 4500 lb roller probably does a pretty good job of rolling right over it and leaving us with a nice polite torque graph, free from details. (dips and peaks that i wish to see.)
as you said yourself, there is theoretically no difference in tuning on the street. so why should i pay a dyno owners mortgage when the street is free and it takes me as many hours on the rollers as it would on the street to land in all of those empty cells long enough for an accurate data sample? id prefer to work out the rough A/F on the street and then get on a dynapack capable of holding me steady in the datalog cells that i have a hard time landing in to make fine adjustments, then switch over to ignition tuning.
i was quoted $61,000 for a dynapack 3000, which i dont think is a bad investment at all, but is unrealistic for me presently. im reading patents and talking with some very smart friends about how possible it is for me to machine the rotor and stator housing to build a true water brake with electronic flow valves. starting to think i can do it. i wish to be able to hold the engine in a solid state at literally hundreds of increments, varying the injector duration and spark advance of just a single cell and viewing the response in EGT/knock/torque.. for an entire map. later when i move on to standalones, i want the ability to do this independantly for every cylinder. IMO, an inertial dyno doesnt have much business in that scenario. since they dont have much to do with where im trying to get to, i have no interest in paying by the hour for a detour.
i will tread lightly to avoid putting my foot in my mouth here.. since i have never been on a dyno in my life, am relatively new to EFI tuning and may certainly be assuming certain things that are or are not true, particularly regarding different manufacturer models.
my understanding is that an inertial dyno is simply a massive load that freewheels. record the time required to accelerate a known mass from one rpm to another rpm through a given gear ratio and you can calculate the torque, then calculate the HP. i am under the impression that inertial dynos do not have clamping ability how a hydraulic or water brake would. my basic distaste for inertial dynos is that under a WOT pull, if there is a tq dip of 2 ft lbs, the 4500 lb roller probably does a pretty good job of rolling right over it and leaving us with a nice polite torque graph, free from details. (dips and peaks that i wish to see.)
as you said yourself, there is theoretically no difference in tuning on the street. so why should i pay a dyno owners mortgage when the street is free and it takes me as many hours on the rollers as it would on the street to land in all of those empty cells long enough for an accurate data sample? id prefer to work out the rough A/F on the street and then get on a dynapack capable of holding me steady in the datalog cells that i have a hard time landing in to make fine adjustments, then switch over to ignition tuning.
i was quoted $61,000 for a dynapack 3000, which i dont think is a bad investment at all, but is unrealistic for me presently. im reading patents and talking with some very smart friends about how possible it is for me to machine the rotor and stator housing to build a true water brake with electronic flow valves. starting to think i can do it. i wish to be able to hold the engine in a solid state at literally hundreds of increments, varying the injector duration and spark advance of just a single cell and viewing the response in EGT/knock/torque.. for an entire map. later when i move on to standalones, i want the ability to do this independantly for every cylinder. IMO, an inertial dyno doesnt have much business in that scenario. since they dont have much to do with where im trying to get to, i have no interest in paying by the hour for a detour.
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From: Hessian Aggression
Re: (Don Lackey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Normally I would ask more questions to see the degree of your knowledge but since you have been a great help to Randy, I will spare you from the wrath of the lackey.
I do agree with that statement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can we hang out one day and maybe dremel some autolites over some excellent hibachi? :saporo:
edit: mikey, why does the whp of that non-vtec motor change form time to time? did you think i wouldnt notice?
Normally I would ask more questions to see the degree of your knowledge but since you have been a great help to Randy, I will spare you from the wrath of the lackey.
I do agree with that statement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can we hang out one day and maybe dremel some autolites over some excellent hibachi? :saporo:
edit: mikey, why does the whp of that non-vtec motor change form time to time? did you think i wouldnt notice?
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
Re: (xDEFTONESx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: mikey, why does the whp of that non-vtec motor change form time to time? did you think i wouldnt notice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
because it's dilligent owner continues to make improvements. the 183 whp is uncorrected though. in a year i intend to make everyone notice.
edit: mikey, why does the whp of that non-vtec motor change form time to time? did you think i wouldnt notice?
</TD></TR></TABLE>because it's dilligent owner continues to make improvements. the 183 whp is uncorrected though. in a year i intend to make everyone notice.
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From: So Cal
Re: (Don Lackey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you tuning for HP in the part-throttle portions of the map? Sorry I am just the lackey here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you specify in your original question that you were referring to just the part throttle conditions of the map? Let me check.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is tuning on the street different than on an inertial dyno? Theoretically there is no difference since your car is the inertial mass on the street and the drum the inertial mass on the inertial dyno. Are you applying the brakes when street tuning or do you have hills with various grades or the car has really poor aero qualities? Just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope nothing in there about part throttle. The fact is, when most people go to get tuned, the go for the whole enchilada. Part throttle tuning, nice steady idle A/F Ratio, and strong peak numbers as well.
Did you specify in your original question that you were referring to just the part throttle conditions of the map? Let me check.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is tuning on the street different than on an inertial dyno? Theoretically there is no difference since your car is the inertial mass on the street and the drum the inertial mass on the inertial dyno. Are you applying the brakes when street tuning or do you have hills with various grades or the car has really poor aero qualities? Just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope nothing in there about part throttle. The fact is, when most people go to get tuned, the go for the whole enchilada. Part throttle tuning, nice steady idle A/F Ratio, and strong peak numbers as well.
B*a*n*n*e*d
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Re: (Combustion Contraption)
Damn, you caught me. I need to go stand in the corner 
.
You need to go back further and see that my post was in reply to Mike B's post about part throttle aka street tuning.
My post was addressing Mike B.'s comments about street tuning so the car doesn't "pop" when you drive it off after being "dyno tuned". He says inertial dyno's are not "so hot" for part loads. My post was specifically asking for clarificationn on that statement.
Some day you will earn your bowl of com chin ga. LOL.
.You need to go back further and see that my post was in reply to Mike B's post about part throttle aka street tuning.
My post was addressing Mike B.'s comments about street tuning so the car doesn't "pop" when you drive it off after being "dyno tuned". He says inertial dyno's are not "so hot" for part loads. My post was specifically asking for clarificationn on that statement.
Some day you will earn your bowl of com chin ga. LOL.